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doubtful your tape is hitting the rest if the fletching isn’t. the rest should be down long before the tail end of the shaft gets there. verify your rest timing, center shot, arrow level thru the berger hole, and your cam timing is good and then move closer to about 6 feet and see what kind of tear you get with the bare shaft. out of curiosity do you shoot fixed blade broad heads?
 

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I don’t shoot through paper anymore. I feel it is a waste of time.

Assuming your bow is within specs, timed, and your rest is at center shot.

I use one bare shaft arrow and shoot it at a foam target (that can’t move) at 20 yards. You might start at 10 yards.
I “nock tune” the bare shaft by marking where the nock in on the arrow and the turning the nock 1/4 turn until I get the least amount of tail up, down, right, or left. Then I mark that well, so I always shoot the bare shaft with the same orientation.

Then I shoot one fletched and the bare shaft at 20 yards, trying to get them impacting the same place and parallel.
I raise or lower my rest to fix tail high or low first.
Then I shim the cams or if not far off, bump the rest a little to fix tail right or left.

When my fletched arrow and bare shaft are impacting in the same place and parallel at 20 yards, my bow is tuned.
if he shot a bare shaft at 10 or 20 yards he’d be searching for it in the trees
 

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I prefer fixed but have shot a little of both.

Cam timing is perfect. Center shot is very close.
I have never looked at rest timing so I’ll check this.
My arrow is well above the Berger hole so I’ll adjust this next. Thanks for the advice.
center of the berger hole is just a starting point, some people may end up higher, some people may end up lower, but you generally want some of the arrow thru the hole.
for example some people prefer to run the bottom of the arrow at the height of the center of the berger hole.
 

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I think I found the issue by using foot spray. My fletching/nock was hitting my rest AFTER it had deployed, I.e it was hitting the bottom of my rest. Evidentially my nock point was way too low or my rest was tilted too high.

Next issue: my serving at my nock point is already frayed/broken. The strings are winners choice, about 2-3 months old.

Does anyone know typical causes for fraying brand new servings?

1. Could the rest issue described above be the culprit?

2. Could it be the new nocks from my new arrows? They’re the conventional green nocks that come on the Easton axis.

3. Could it be caused by nock pinch?

4. Can anyone recommend a repair method formy serving at the nock point?

Thanks gentlemen. You may make a bow tuner of me yet!
1. did you fix the contact issue? no rest contact won’t fray the center serving.

2. the nock shouldn’t cause separation, in my experience separation comes from the d loop over time.

3. to check for nock pinch remove a field point from an arrow and draw back. if the arrow doesn’t lift off the rest no nock pinch. if you have heavy inserts in the arrow you’ll want to remove that too or just use any arrow with a light insert or no insert that uses the same nock as what you’ll be shooting.

4. you could take it to a shop and have them reserve the center serving for you or you could buy some serving material and reserve yourself
 

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when tying the nock points if the serving you used slipped in between center serving wraps it can cause separation. i guess as far as fraying anything is possible.

i don’t think 3d is meant for center serving but i could be wrong. no you don’t need a jig but it helps keep tension equal. do you have an old bowstring you can practice on ?
 
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