I agree. I have spent hours/days twisting and untwisting the new 452x strings and cable. Since I basically have longer strings, Im not too sure what I can do. Im looking around for a bow tuning DVD or something. It could be that I havent tuned it correctly.
After setting the bow's ATA, BH, and DL to specs, and keeping the twist ratio at 1 3/4, the bow shoots pretty good. The only lost is with the bow maxed out, Im only getting 55# instead of the Max DW of 60#.
1) twisting the buss cable shorter, until you hit the 60 lbs of draw weight.
2) Now with the ATA set...tweak the control cable to get the cams into synchronization (draw stops hitting at the same time...timing dots in the correct position).
3) Now, check the draw length setting. Since your ATA was on the long side, and with the ATA set shorter to hit factory spec for draw weight...your DL will be longer than before.
4) Twist up the bowstring to hit the DL setting YOU want. Draw cycle will smooth out, as the bowstring gets shorter....the draw weight will also drop a skosh.
5) When the draw length is correct (twisted up the bowstring, as needed)...check the draw weight. If draw weight is still a skosh low, add another twist to the buss cable to hit draw weight.
6) Now, check for cam synchronization (correct cam starting rotation position...check for a draw stop on the bottom cam...if you have a draw stop up top, check this...if you only have timing dots, also check this)
7) Small adjustment to the control cable should adjust cam synchronization.
Just did this to a 75th anniversay edition Hoyt Trkon XL yesterday evening..fixed draw length Zephyr cam.
Same concepts...different brand, different cam system.
It's a riser. Top cam. Bottom cam. Buss cable...Control cable...Bowstring.
Tweak buss cable for ATA to set the draw weight.
Tweak the control cable to get draw stops / timing dots (whatever combo you have) to get the cams working together (for Hoyt, that means stops hitting at the same time...at first).
Tweak bowstring for draw length...(advance the cams..shorten bowstring for smoothness of draw cycle)....r e t a r d the cams (lengthen the bowstring) to get a sharper drop into the valley).
When cam timing (cam starting rotation position...gives YOU the draw cycle FEEL you like), then....check draw length.
Tweak the ATA shorter, to bump up (LENGTHEN) draw length sllightly..say 1/8th or so.
Tweak the ATA longer, to bump down (SHORTEN) the draw length slightly...say 1/8th or so.
When the DL is dead on...then, tweak the control cable, to get the draw stops (cam synch) to your liking...(for Hoyt...this means the top draw stop hits FIRST...and the bottom draw stop has a TINY gap).
ANY bow,
with a buss cable
with a control cable,
with a bowstring,
can be "super tuned" this way...
as long as you understand the basic concepts.
So,
if in doubt,
contact ken (baldyhunter)
and he can work with you.
He has a nice thread,
explaining cam synchronization (cam starting rotation position)
and
cam timing (cam draw stops / timing dots working together)
and...
3 EXAMPLES of draw force curves.
He has the super nice Easton Draw Force Mapper system.