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I had a Dacron Flemish twist string that came with my OMP recurve and it seemed fine. Then it was pointed out that the bow was FF compatible, so I ordered a laser hp string from Three Rivers. It's 16 strands, and they claim it will add speed to the shot. Is there any validity to this ?
 

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A well built high performance string can completely change the bow for the better over a lesser string.
 

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You bet! The modern string materials are significantly faster, and better in most every respect with about every kind of bow. Some bows made prior to about 1975 used fibreglas that was prone to splitting. For those fine old bows many of use still use 'dacron' strings as a precaution. For all other bows including all wood 'primitive' type bows the modern string materials are superior.

They are very strong so thinner strings are possible, but many of us prefer 15 or 16 strands for convenience and stability. You may well get 5% or more greater speed and power, plus a sweeter and quieter shot. Naturally, results vary. - lbg
 

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Joe -

I have no idea what a laser hp string is.

The difference in speed between a PROPERLY MADE and TUNED Dacron and a PROPERLY MADE and TUNED FF-type string, may be on the order of 10 fps or less - IF the bow was designed to take advantage of the newer materials.
Comparing a minimal stranded FF-type string and an over build Dacron string, really is apples and oranges. Comparing both strings with correct strand counts, see above.

Depending on what you're doing that may or may not be significant.

Viper1 out.
 

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How long is your bow, or how long is your string, or whatever?

If I have any leftovers that size, I'd be happy to send you something.
 

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I guess it depends on what you're doing and what you're after. I've had some good "high performance" strings made by others. However, I still have a big spool of Dacron (B50) and, for the shooting I do, I'm just as happy with the 14 strand b50 strings that I make..
 

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i too have an omp recurve [mountaineer] it came with two dacron strings [one endless loop and one flemish twist] i bought a fastflight string from stilldub [12 strand] and it is a completely different bow, quieter, faster, and seems to come alive when shot. thats my erperience
 

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I have never noticed any appreciable performance gain by using strings made from the newer materials vs. B50 or B55. In fact, I have found the strings to make more noise, not less. There are so many variables to shooting performance that it's hard for me, with my mediocre shooting ability, to say that changing one particular thing really made my shooting or bow improve.

I own a whole closet full of recurves, longbows and selfbows. They all have Flemish twist Dacron strings on them and I have killed a lot of game with them so that's good enough for me.

I also make my own strings and it's really hard for me to buy a 1/4 lb spool of D97 for $40 when I can buy the same size spool of B50 for $10.

Darren
 

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When I was putting together my ILF bow, I made a B55 flemish string for it untill I ordered a 8190 endless loop string. Once I put the 8190 string on there was no comparison between the two, the 8190 was far better. I don't have a chrono but I would imagine the difference was 10+ fps with the 8190.
 

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When I first got a FF string for my Samick Sage (the B50 string that came with it broke while I was shooting...), the FF string initially started sending my arrows all over the place. It was partially the plastic vanes on my arrows, and partially my form, so I will say that a FF string will bring out a lot of things in a bow/shooter due to the faster speed. However, since I've gone FF, I won't go back; the bow does indeed feel alive as pghrich mentioned. With a B50 string, my Sage just felt a bit dull, and of course it broke which leaves me wary of B50 in general. I definitely feel like FF is worth the money.
 

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Being stiffer, the fast flight kind of material will have more higher frequency harmonics than the dacron. The character of the harmonics will vary depending on the specifics of the material, and to some degree, the string construction. If you use silencers, and they're placed well, this need not be an issue. Also, much of the string noise is often the string slapping against the limb after the shot. Sidp from Border Bows clued in to laying a 3/4 inch piece of soft side velcro, centered where the string leaves the limb when braced. Totally removes any buzz.

Then again, my wife's montana was incredibly quiet with a dacron string, albeit with heavy arrows, and not so fast either. Ultimately, went with fast flight plus with otter fur balls, and it is just as quiet.


Either will work. I prefer a modern material myself, given the option, as i like the feel, and I prefer to have more of the energy that I put. Into the bow make it into the arrow, all else being equal, or capable of being made so (because if you get down to the details, all else is never equal) but any material is capable of shooting better than we can.
 

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A little off subject, but is there any validity to the suggestion that 3 under produces a louder shot than split? I'm moving from a longbow that had an EL string of 8190 on it to a longbow that has a flemish of Fast Flight Plus and the bowyer pointed out that 3 under (which I shoot) is louder. I hadn't heard this before.
 

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E -

There is something wrong with your bow or other piece of equipment, Dacron doesn't break that easily.
The odds are there's a rough spot on a string nock, or if you are using crimp on nicking points, a gorilla may have installed them.
Where are the breaks happening?

Zonic -

A lot of people have said that, however if the bows are tuned correctly for each method, finger position shouldn't matter, sound wise.
The only exception I can think of, would if the bow was so short or built so poorly that tiller couldn't be adjusted by moving the nocking point.

Viper1 out.
 

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All I know is when I changed over to the Fast Flight Laser you speak of from 3 Rivers. I had to change arrows from 500 to 400 and that means it is shooting a bit harder. I have not put it on a crony after I changed strings so I do not know for sure what it did to speed, but the 400 arrow is a little heavier so it might be a wash.
 

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Zonic -

A lot of people have said that, however if the bows are tuned correctly for each method, finger position shouldn't matter, sound wise.
The only exception I can think of, would if the bow was so short or built so poorly that tiller couldn't be adjusted by moving the nocking point.
Thanks Viper. I do not want to change shooting styles. But being a deer hunter I do want the quietest shot possible from my trad bow.

I have a nock locator above and below. I wonder if some experience some small sound without a lower nock point? I think I have heard that the nock end of the arrow has a tendency to push down on release when shooting 3 under.

i bought a fastflight string from stilldub [12 strand] and it is a completely different bow, quieter, faster, and seems to come alive when shot.
I love stilldub's Dacron strings! They are quiet and built to last. I had one on my horsebow and another on my Shakespeare. They're a pleasure to release.
 

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E -

There is something wrong with your bow or other piece of equipment, Dacron doesn't break that easily.
The odds are there's a rough spot on a string nock, or if you are using crimp on nicking points, a gorilla may have installed them.
Where are the breaks happening?
Hi Viper1,

The string broke about halfway between the nocking point and the limb nock, just on bare string. I did look the string over about a week before, since it was pretty soon after I bought it. I blame it as a lemon string since I'm sure not many people have that issue with the Sage. I did see a review on Lancaster Archery where the string also broke on them. I will admit that it's pretty much just psychologically that I feel safer with FF string material after that happened, not so much based on any kind of evidence.

Thanks for your reply
- Zach
 

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Joe,

Where did your string break at? I have had several string failures, all were investigated thoroughly and none were due to a faulty string. Burrs on the bow tips, beat up nocks with sharp edges, storage areas all should be looked at when a string fails. This is unless the string is very old and seriously needed changing out anyways.

I don't know anything about the new string that you mentioned first of all, but a well made string can and likely will boost your bow's performance. I actually went from a FF string on a bow that I had to a Rick Barbee string and I was shocked at the difference in performance. Rick Barbee makes strings that will make most any bow reach it's full potential, when I received the Barbee string I had to start using a much stiffer spine arrow.

Good luck and let us know how your new string works out for you. Happy Holidays!!!
 

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Zack -

Upper or lower limb?
Any way of you posting a picture of one of the broken strings, at the break point?
My concern is that if an external force caused the break (and willing to bet it did), then sooner or later the FF string will end up the same way.
Even with a low strand count, the odds on all strands going at the same time is pretty slim.

Mo -

I inadvertently built a B-50 string for one of my Oly bows, which usually gets a D-97. (Don't ask...)
It shot beautifully and the point of impact was pretty much spot on, until I tried to bare shaft it.
The bare shafts impacted about 6" left of where they were supposed to.
So yes, there's a difference, but having to go from a 500 to a 400? That seems like a big jump.

Viper1 out.
 

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Zack -

Upper or lower limb?
Any way of you posting a picture of one of the broken strings, at the break point?
My concern is that if an external force caused the break (and willing to bet it did), then sooner or later the FF string will end up the same way.
Even with a low strand count, the odds on all strands going at the same time is pretty slim.
Upper limb, and sorry, I didn't take any pictures and I trashed the string right after. The only thing I can think of is that I often hang my bow at that shooting range by the string, on a series of metal hooks just behind the shooting line. They seem quite smooth, but perhaps that could have caused some damage to the string.

This discussion has reminded me of a possible concern I have though. I've been considering putting string silencers on my bow, would that have any possible issues that could cause a string breakage? If there's any chance of that, I might forgo them.

Thanks
 

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Zach -

Most string silencers are safe.
The way some people attempt to install them is something else.

If you need to separate the strands, do it with the bow unstrung and DON'T stick anything between the strands - no matter how "dull" you think it is.
Doing that is common practice with a lot of compound types, but I've seen enough string blow because of that.

Willing to bet one of those hooks you were hanging your bow on had a burr...

Viper1 out.
 
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