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Discussion Starter #1
Is it supposed to be this dang hard to find one that flys good with my bow??? my bow is tuned properly by a good bowshop and i know because i can fly field points very tight. But when it comes to trying broadheads they fly kind of unexpectedly?? any suggestions? or just keep trying???
 

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Is it supposed to be this dang hard to find one that flys good with my bow??? my bow is tuned properly by a good bowshop and i know because i can fly field points very tight. But when it comes to trying broadheads they fly kind of unexpectedly?? any suggestions? or just keep trying???
Do the broadheads impact consistently to the left, right, above or below your fieldtips?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No they do not impact very consistently... and i am trying all the popular brands the muzzy mx-100, mx-3, mx-4s, tried the slick trick mags
 

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Straight vane's, offset or helical's? What's your arrow spine, draw weight and length. A border line weak spine shaft will cause a fixed blade to fly crazy and the field tip's will still group fine. A fixed blade will show flaw's in shooting.

Not to be rude, just because the bowshop tuned don't really mean jack.
 

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Is it supposed to be this dang hard to find one that flys good with my bow??? my bow is tuned properly by a good bowshop and i know because i can fly field points very tight. But when it comes to trying broadheads they fly kind of unexpectedly?? any suggestions? or just keep trying???
I don't mean to be harsh with an answer, but only an honest answer will get you to your goal.

There will be those that come along and tell you that Muzzy's don't fly well. I've not experienced that and have 7 game heads on the living room wall all shot with Muzzy's. I've had good luck with probably 1/2 dozen different brands of broadheads. Granted, some heads don't fly as well as others, but if you're blaming the heads you'll never get where you want to be.

You say that your bow is tuned well because you do well with field points. Very poorly tuned bows should shoot field points well.

Have you ever tried shooting bare shafts? It's been my experience that if you can shoot bare shafts well, you should be able to shoot broadheads well. Maybe not to the same point of impact, but at least consistently.

If your broadheads steadily hit left, or low, or whatever, then some simple tweaks to the bow should have them hitting with field points. If your broadheads are scattered all over the target, the problem may very well be with you. Consistent form is absolutely needed to group broadheads.

Please don't take this a put-down, it's not meant to be. It just means that you may need a deeper understanding of what's happening and maybe some dedicated work on you form and technique.

It may be helpful to know what bow you're shooting, at what draw length, draw weight, arrow length, spine, fletch, point weight, what nock and so forth. Correct spine is essential to good broadhead flight. Little blades on the front of your arrow try to do some steering. That means that a good straight launch is critical. What rest are you using?

Don't get discouraged by this problem. We've all been there. Some learn and overcome. Some get frustrated and give up. I'd like to see you be in the first group.

Ask, try, learn, succeed. What shop do you use?

Best of luck to you.
 

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I don't mean to be harsh with an answer, but only an honest answer will get you to your goal.

There will be those that come along and tell you that Muzzy's don't fly well. I've not experienced that and have 7 game heads on the living room wall all shot with Muzzy's. I've had good luck with probably 1/2 dozen different brands of broadheads. Granted, some heads don't fly as well as others, but if you're blaming the heads you'll never get where you want to be.

You say that your bow is tuned well because you do well with field points. Very poorly tuned bows should shoot field points well.

Have you ever tried shooting bare shafts? It's been my experience that if you can shoot bare shafts well, you should be able to shoot broadheads well. Maybe not to the same point of impact, but at least consistently.

If your broadheads steadily hit left, or low, or whatever, then some simple tweaks to the bow should have them hitting with field points. If your broadheads are scattered all over the target, the problem may very well be with you. Consistent form is absolutely needed to group broadheads.

Please don't take this a put-down, it's not meant to be. It just means that you may need a deeper understanding of what's happening and maybe some dedicated work on you form and technique.

It may be helpful to know what bow you're shooting, at what draw length, draw weight, arrow length, spine, fletch, point weight, what nock and so forth. Correct spine is essential to good broadhead flight. Little blades on the front of your arrow try to do some steering. That means that a good straight launch is critical. What rest are you using?

Don't get discouraged by this problem. We've all been there. Some learn and overcome. Some get frustrated and give up. I'd like to see you be in the first group.

Ask, try, learn, succeed. What shop do you use?

Best of luck to you.
Very good answer. Sounds like you have some tuning to do OP. You'll be able to get it. Your shop should have a paper they can give you that goes into depth of tuning for broad heads. You will need to micro adjust your rest to get the broad head to fly with the field point, make sure everything is square and that you are shooting the correct spine and weight for the tip. Form is also a huge factor in getting them both together. We will need to know your equipment and specs to be able to offer any other kind of advice
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yea i know i completely understand everything yall are saying. Its a Carbon knight by bow tech 27 inch draw length, 62 draw weight, some guy ran by specs into his program on here and it said my optimum spine was 410-415 so i bought some goldtip XT hunter 400 spined 27 inch arrows
 

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Discussion Starter #11
and i mean the fletchings are just straight 2 inch vanes or whatever they all come in with a rip cord dropaway rest
 

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You need some helical or offset vane's to spin the fixed blade. Straight vane's and fixed blade's will give you issue's. Arrow's are fine, just need some helical on the vane's.
 

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You need some helical or offset vane's to spin the fixed blade. Straight vane's and fixed blade's will give you issue's. Arrow's are fine, just need some helical on the vane's.
This X2!!

Fixed blades will rarely ever fly well with straight 2" vanes. Need offset or even better, helical fetching.
Also, Being able to group field points well does not mean a bow is well tuned at all.
Does it group bareshafts with field points, How does it shoot thru paper, bulletholes or not?
 

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Very good point made above. Straight fletch may work well for some, but it's not ideal for us mere mortals. Projectiles need to spin to negate inconsistencies.

Stick with it and you'll be ready for next October.
 

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X3 get those puppy's refletched with helical. If you can not get Slick Tricks to fly, you will have problems with all fixed blade heads.
You need some helical or offset vane's to spin the fixed blade. Straight vane's and fixed blade's will give you issue's. Arrow's are fine, just need some helical on the vane's.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
alright i will try the bare shaft shots tomorrow! and get those fletching helical! thanks!! i will post about it tomorrow
 

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Also , have you spun the arrows with bh's, an unsquared shaft end will show up a lot with a bh, compared to a fp, just a thought
 
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