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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So….. I am looking some input on my tuning venture.

I have a 60” 52 pound @ 28” Bob Lee Recurve. I draw to 28.25”. I have some Gold Tip Traditional Arrows in 340 and 400 spine. I have made up some “tuning arrows“ with each spine at varying lengths in 1/2” increments. My form is decent and my draw length is fairly consistent but obviously neither is perfect. I am just trying to get the best flying hunting arrow I can produce. I have 100g brass inserts and 200g points as this is the head weight combo I have chosen. I can shoot 200g broadheads or 150g broadheads with a Gold Tip 50g screw in insert weight. Here are my findings……

340 spine…… I get a 31” and 31.5” to bare shaft the best from 10 to 30 yards. If I had to pick one it would be the 31” but it’s honestly a toss up. I am sure my imperfections are why I can’t get one to out perform the other. 32” is definitely weak and 30.5” shows stiff.

400 spine…. The shortest I have made up is 29.25” long and it flies decent from 10-30 yards but continues to show weak tendencies. Anything longer shows weak. I think I am ruling out the 400 spine at my head weight as the arrows are getting short. I believe a 28.75“ to 29” would fly the best if I had some made.

So….. What is the next step with the 31” and 31.5” 340 spine arrows to get the best tune? Shoot them against Fletched shafts? If I do that would you start with the 31.5” and trim down as necessary?

Looking opinions and advice. Thx
 

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When I bare shaft tune I do so over at least a two sessions. Usually make some minor adjustments. I bare shaft at 20 yards at a ribbon crosshair. Once I get my bare shafts to fly like darts on the vertical (horizontal is a no-brainer) I fletch them and keep replacement nocks handy. I don't shoot over 20 yards.
 

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Bareshaft compared to fletched. Shooting off the shelf, I have best luck with it a little on the weak side at 20 yards. The put a broadhead on and fine tune with nock point and brace height.
Good advice^

I still shoot a bareshaft on every shooting session. It helps me stay consistent.

Do you have a consistant DL? My DL is consistent but my release is not- my kryptonite.
 

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I have a Bob Lee Bow as well, 38# OTF and find that I have to use lighter spined arrows (0.2 more deflection) than my barebow recurve that is also 38# OTF. Wire rests and plungers on the BB recurve make a lot of difference as to the arrow spine tolerance of the bow, so with the trad bow I definately shoot higher spine deflection as CM and Ben have stated above.
 

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Guys -

I have a little bit of a problem with the whole idea about "fine tuning" a hunting bow.

1. Unless your from is dead nuts consistent, you can't "fine tune" anything.
2. Are your practice (tuning) sessions identical to (ALL) your "hunting" scenarios?

I could go into details about those things, but I think you get my drift.

Knowing how to "fine tune" a rig is a good thing, but so is knowing when it's not necessary or even possible.

Viper1 out.
 

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In my opinion this is probably the most efficient and effective tuning process...Bare Shaft Tuning

Use three fletched and three bare shafts, identical other than fletching. Start at fifteen yards and work your way back to twenty five or even thirty yards depending on your skill level. The goal is bare shafts and fletched grouping together. Once you get a good tune with field points replace them with identical weight broadheads and confirm that fletched broadheads group with fletched field points. Then you are done other than occasional check up.

Be careful shooting groups with broadheads due to potential fletching and shaft damage. I can say that once I have bare shafts with field points grouping with fletched shafts and FPs broadheads always are in there too so you will most likely not need to shoot a lot of broadheads in tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Guys -

I have a little bit of a problem with the whole idea about "fine tuning" a hunting bow.

1. Unless your from is dead nuts consistent, you can't "fine tune" anything.
2. Are your practice (tuning) sessions identical to (ALL) your "hunting" scenarios?

I could go into details about those things, but I think you get my drift.

Knowing how to "fine tune" a rig is a good thing, but so is knowing when it's not necessary or even possible.

Viper1 out.
My idea was to get the bow as tuned as humanly possible to my set of shooting skills….. so when I am in an awkward hunting scenario and can’t reproduce a perfect shot maybe the arrow still flies true as possible.
 

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Fine tuning may not be the proper term with traditional archery. However the OP is looking for the best harmony of bow and arrow. I believe his 340 spine 31 inches is in the sweet spot. Shoot a bare shaft, fetched shaft with field point then a broadhead on a fletched shaft. If they group...great! Spine is left/right issues. Up/down are nock point / anchor point issues.

OP is close.
 

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Buck -

That's understandable thinking, but incorrect. The best tune humanly possible is meaningless, if your draw length changes by 1/2" or more or you grab the bow or pluck the string. The fact is, that while tuning never hurts, for 20 yard shots, close enough is close enough. So maybe the term "fine tuning" isn't the best.

And sorry, but shooting an arrow with 300 grains upfront from a 52# bow just doesn't make a damn bit of sense. Frankly, a 29" 1916 (623 spine) with a 125 - 145 bh would work a heck of a lot better - in all regards. If you want a slightly longer shaft or heavier head, then a 2016 might work. Seriously, your making your life a lot harder than it has to be.

But yeah, I stopped hunting well over 30 years ago, so what do I know...

Viper1 out.
 
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"... What is the next step with the 31” and 31.5” 340 spine arrows to get the best tune? Shoot them against Fletched shafts?' Nope that's the first step. And as Ark stated the 'fine tuning' is off in the title.

Look at the spine Viper suggests. Even with 300 grains up front your bow can't bend that .340 arrow. And the only reason that you think that .340's are your best tune is because you're getting a false reading. When you're shooting without sights, your subconscious my take over, making it harder to tune - it knows where the arrow is supposed to go. 3finger's idea of shooting a crosshair is a great idea. I use a golf ball with a tee super glued to it.

If you're grouping out to 30 yards, I'd discount comments about your form and consistent draw length. I really could be off here, I'd have to see you shoot a couple. I believe Keepers link is Fender Archery. Get the bare and fletched to impact in the same spot AND then you can start fine tuning.

When tuning with broadheads always shoot the broadhead first. I always choose two arrows from the group of fletched and bares I've been impacting with. Their spine should be good if they're grouping. Broadhead tuning with more than 2 arrows can get expensive. Don't shoot a bare shaft with a broadhead on it.

You're probably hunting whitetails, you don't need anything heavier than Viper's suggestion.

Bowmania
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
"... What is the next step with the 31” and 31.5” 340 spine arrows to get the best tune? Shoot them against Fletched shafts?' Nope that's the first step. And as Ark stated the 'fine tuning' is off in the title.

Look at the spine Viper suggests. Even with 300 grains up front your bow can't bend that .340 arrow. And the only reason that you think that .340's are your best tune is because you're getting a false reading. When you're shooting without sights, your subconscious my take over, making it harder to tune - it knows where the arrow is supposed to go. 3finger's idea of shooting a crosshair is a great idea. I use a golf ball with a tee super glued to it.

If you're grouping out to 30 yards, I'd discount comments about your form and consistent draw length. I really could be off here, I'd have to see you shoot a couple. I believe Keepers link is Fender Archery. Get the bare and fletched to impact in the same spot AND then you can start fine tuning.

When tuning with broadheads always shoot the broadhead first. I always choose two arrows from the group of fletched and bares I've been impacting with. Their spine should be good if they're grouping. Broadhead tuning with more than 2 arrows can get expensive. Don't shoot a bare shaft with a broadhead on it.

You're probably hunting whitetails, you don't need anything heavier than Viper's suggestion.

Bowmania
I am confused about the false readings. When I shoot out at 30 yards I can clearly see the 400 spine arrows going tail left and staying tail left in flight. When I shoot the 340’s I can only see the nock and mostly no tail kick in the 31” and 31.5” arrows.

Am I doing it wrong? I don’t care what spine I shoot as long as they fly correctly.
 

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If you can see the tail end kicked out left and you’re a right handed shooter, the false weak is because the arrows are too stiff actually and they’re contacting the riser towards the end of the shaft I bet and kicking around for a false weak.
 

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Sometimes to confirm I have a weak shaft, and not a false weak, I'll short draw an inch or two. If I see a few "clean" flight I can feel confident it is in fact weak. If contact seems louder and flight shows weak (or weaker) , I'll continue figuring it is a false weak (stiff).
Steve
 

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Don't feel bad, false readings confuse everyone.

I can only guess what's happening and it really doesn't matter if I'm right or wrong because neither arrow is tuned. The .400 is bending slightly and the bow doesn't have enough energy to even bend the .340.

I've built a tip that weighs 460 grains to show people they're too stiff. AND on some occasions, that won't even make an arrow show weak.

I used to shoot a longbow that was 50 at 29. My whitetail arrow was a .620 and my big game arrow was a .390. The former had 300 grains up from and the latter had 360. I will admit both settups were on the 'edge'. Bows shoot more than one spine. One arrow is 30 inches and the other is 32. This is the big game arrow.

Bowmania
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Here's the .620 at work. Double lunged at about 22 yards. Keeled over at 19. The shot was longer than he traveled after the shot. He made that hind leg kick at the shot. Old buck on the decline. Had started getting feeble, probably the only reason I got him, lol.

Bowmania
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I'm shooting 400 spine with 275 tip weight (~510 total arrow weight w/ ~25% FOC) at 30.5" shaft length with around 47# of draw weight. I shot the bare shafts for over a month straight at 32 inches before starting to cut them down 1/8 to 1/4 at a time, and they were consistently weak the whole time. The shorter I cut the more they straightened out.

i put chalk on the sight window where the arrow would touch if it was hitting the riser. Never had any chalk come off the window and never saw any white chalk on the black carbon shafts. Slow motion filming supported the weak indications at the longer lengths.

if I'm being honest I could probably cut them down a little more as I get a very slight weak at 30 yards. But I'm a week out from hunting season so decided to stop messing with it and move on to fletching and broadhead tuning.

they shoot straight. Just my experience going through this process as a new archer.
 

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Here's the .620 at work. Double lunged at about 22 yards. Keeled over at 19. The shot was longer than he traveled after the shot. He made that hind leg kick at the shot. Old buck on the decline. Had started getting feeble, probably the only reason I got him, lol.

Bowmania View attachment 7704180
I'll take any advantage I can in the deer woods. If they are feeble, blind or can't hear or smell it all helps. A good ole buck like that is always a tougher trophy to get.

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