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Discussion Starter #1
So I was "flipping" through some youtube videos and came across one regarding setting draw length. This video emphasised the "nose to string" set up which I have never really done. I've just ordered the tools where I could work on DL myself, and I'm hoping for some advice going through the process...

I'm guessing I should start with the draw mods and getting the setup close, then fine tune with twisting/untwisting the string to get the nose and kisser button contact I'm looking for, finally getting the anchor point by adjusting the D-loop?

I know later there is fine tuning based on groupings, but I've taken a lot of time off this year and don't think my shot is consistent enough to adjust based on groups.

Is my thought process even close?

Thanks
 

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If you are not going to be shooting groups (not recommended), probably the best way to get in the ballpark for DL would be to use your current setup with a measuring arrow. Draw back to anchor and read off the DL where the arrow touches on the arrow rest. BTW, you don't always need to have your nose touching the string for correct DL.
 

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edthearcher
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nose contact and peep close to the eye, is easier to get with long axle to axles, on the shorter a to a its hard. o.k. you want to fine tune draw length slightly twist up on buss cable longer draw, let out twist on bussshorter draw.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you are not going to be shooting groups (not recommended), probably the best way to get in the ballpark for DL would be to use your current setup with a measuring arrow. Draw back to anchor and read off the DL where the arrow touches on the arrow rest. BTW, you don't always need to have your nose touching the string for correct DL.


Have to shoot groups, has to do with being blind and needing the references for form. Also, blindly changing my tactile to not shoot groups might end up with arrows in the back office.

As for nose contact, I would normally agree that it isn't important, but again being blind and not being able to see a bubble or the cant in reference to the surroundings i have no reference point when the bow is canted left/right, and I tend to be more consistent with the extra reference point [the nose].
 

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Discussion Starter #5
nose contact and peep close to the eye, is easier to get with long axle to axles, on the shorter a to a its hard. o.k. you want to fine tune draw length slightly twist up on buss cable longer draw, let out twist on bussshorter draw.


Peep isn't a concern, I fly without one. So, buss/string changes, isn't it just two methods of getting the same result?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Peep isn't a concern, I fly without one. So, buss/string changes, isn't it just two methods of getting the same result?


Or, twist buss to lengthen and twist string to shorten... Always twisting within reason to avoid untwisting serving?
 

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Peep isn't a concern, I fly without one. So, buss/string changes, isn't it just two methods of getting the same result?
Correct. When you shorten the buss cable, the ATA of the bow is shortened, and the cams will roll over more, which effectively pays out more bowstring, so when you reach full draw, the draw length is now longer than before. You COULD untwist the bowstring, to get a longer draw length, so working SOLELY with the bowstring is one way to get draw length changes. So, working SOLELY with the buss cable, is another way to get draw length changes. Now, if you are a believer in the NEVER EVER remove a twist from anything, then, you are correct. To GROW draw length, only EVER add twists to the buss cable. To SHORTEN draw length, only EVER add twists to the bowstring.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Alan... Now for the dumb question- I'm shooting BowTechs with the ODB cams, which is/are the buss cable/s? The end with two cables [the yokes?] or the end with one loop [the control cable?]?

It seems like the one-end cable controlled cam timing, so would the process be to twist both top and bottom cam cable? Then, the yokes are for cam lean, would it then be all for equally?

Sort of why I was hoping to just do it with the string... One string...
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Thanks Alan... Now for the dumb question- I'm shooting BowTechs with the ODB cams, which is/are the buss cable/s? The end with two cables [the yokes?] or the end with one loop [the control cable?]?

It seems like the one-end cable controlled cam timing, so would the process be to twist both top and bottom cam cable? Then, the yokes are for cam lean, would it then be all for equally?

Sort of why I was hoping to just do it with the string... One string...
The BowTech OverDrive Binary (TM) cam system is genius. Technically, you have two buss cables. But, there are two ends on a buss cable. You have the yoke leg end of the buss cable (two legs). The two legs are great for yoke tuning. If you paper tune, then, add a twist to the left yoke leg to minimize a left paper tear. If you paper tune, then, add a twist to the right yoke leg to minimize a right paper tear.

So, what about growing draw length? You want to shrink the ATA, so you want to shorten the two buss cables. Simplest to goto the single end loop end of buss cable #1, and add a twist to the single end loop end of buss cable #1. Then, goto the single loop end of buss cable #2, and add a twist.

So, if you want to shorten the draw length, and since you don't use a peep sight, then, easiest way to shorten draw length, a tiny bit, is to shorten the bowstring, by adding a twist or two.
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Thanks Alan... Now for the dumb question- I'm shooting BowTechs with the ODB cams, which is/are the buss cable/s? The end with two cables [the yokes?] or the end with one loop [the control cable?]?

It seems like the one-end cable controlled cam timing, so would the process be to twist both top and bottom cam cable? Then, the yokes are for cam lean, would it then be all for equally?

Sort of why I was hoping to just do it with the string... One string...
Technically, the Bowtech OverDrive cam system does not have any control cables. A binary cam bow, with no yoke legs, has two control cables (rope with only two total end loops). Control cable two end loops. Buss cable has three end loops.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Technically, the Bowtech OverDrive cam system does not have any control cables. A binary cam bow, with no yoke legs, has two control cables (rope with only two total end loops). Control cable two end loops. Buss cable has three end loops.
Thanks, that makes much more sense.
 

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Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a similar question. I also shoot a Bowtech (reign 7) the I just purchased used. It was set on 27.5" draw length when I got it and that's the draw length I shot for a long time. With the destroyer I had before this bow, I felt really scrunched at 27.5" and went to 28 but it felt just a tad long. 27.5 on the reign also felt really scrunched and uncomfortable but 28 feels a tad long. I feel like I'm leaning back a lot. In order to shorten the draw length a little I would untwist both of the single loop ends of the cables correct? What will this do to cam sync and how will it be affected or will it at all as long as I put equal twists in both sides?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a similar question. I also shoot a Bowtech (reign 7) the I just purchased used. It was set on 27.5" draw length when I got it and that's the draw length I shot for a long time. With the destroyer I had before this bow, I felt really scrunched at 27.5" and went to 28 but it felt just a tad long. 27.5 on the reign also felt really scrunched and uncomfortable but 28 feels a tad long. I feel like I'm leaning back a lot. In order to shorten the draw length a little I would untwist both of the single loop ends of the cables correct? What will this do to cam sync and how will it be affected or will it at all as long as I put equal twists in both sides?

My understanding cam sync should stay the same if you do the sae thing to both cables.

Did you end up selling that D350?
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have a similar question. I also shoot a Bowtech (reign 7) the I just purchased used. It was set on 27.5" draw length when I got it and that's the draw length I shot for a long time. With the destroyer I had before this bow, I felt really scrunched at 27.5" and went to 28 but it felt just a tad long. 27.5 on the reign also felt really scrunched and uncomfortable but 28 feels a tad long. I feel like I'm leaning back a lot. In order to shorten the draw length a little I would untwist both of the single loop ends of the cables correct? What will this do to cam sync and how will it be affected or will it at all as long as I put equal twists in both sides?
In a perfect world, sure, perfectly matched deflection limbs, and both cables are built exactly the same length, down to the 1/1000th of an inch, and the strands in each cable are exactly the same tension. So, in a perfect world, when you remove a twist from buss cable #1 and you remove a twist from buss cable #2, the change in length for the two cables is reduced exactly PERFECTLY the same amount. In a perfect world. So, start by removing a twist from both cables, and go shoot some arrows. Can't tell the difference? Go back and remove two more twists from each cable. Now, your cables are three twists longer, cuz you removed three twists. Bow is feeling better for fit. But, the groups are not as tight as before. Groups are actually taller than before. Let your results guide you. Your cam sync (cam timing) MIGHT be a tiny bit off. So, pick ONE cable and add back in half a twist and see how your results change.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yes I did to another member on here


Just saw the thread, would have paid what you bought it for, still have the lighter limbs for it in fact. That bow still holds my best spots scores.

Hope that Reign is treating you well.
 

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Thanks Alan, I'll give it a try here in a couple hours when I go shoot.
Kelly, I sent you a PM about it before I posted it for sale on here but didn't hear anything so I went ahead and listed it. It was a great shooting bow and I loved it! Just wanted to try something new. If I didn't need to sell it in order to fund a new one I would have definitely kept it
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks Alan, I'll give it a try here in a couple hours when I go shoot.
Kelly, I sent you a PM about it before I posted it for sale on here but didn't hear anything so I went ahead and listed it. It was a great shooting bow and I loved it! Just wanted to try something new. If I didn't need to sell it in order to fund a new one I would have definitely kept it


Never saw the PM, but then I think I've been missing a few lately.

No worries, loved that bow but the stable is currently filled with a Specialist, a Fanatic [that I'll probably sell before long, just can't get it quite right] and a RPM360 I'm excited about getting into soon.
 
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