finger positions
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soundman -
Like everything else, finger position is archery isn't random. With split finger. try starting with your middle finger LIGHTLY touching the arrow nock and your index finger about 1/4" above the nock. As you draw, the string angle will collpase your fingers onto the nock, but not with enough pressure to disturb the arrow or hurt your fingers.
Another reason for finger pressure is that there's rotational torque between your hand and the string. More simply, you're twisting the string and pushing your fringers into the arrow nock - Don't do that!!!
Also make sure you're using a deep hook, meaning that the string is actually in the crease of thr first joint or deeper and NOT on the finger tips.
Hope that helped.
Viper1 out.
Like everything else, finger position is archery isn't random. With split finger. try starting with your middle finger LIGHTLY touching the arrow nock and your index finger about 1/4" above the nock. As you draw, the string angle will collpase your fingers onto the nock, but not with enough pressure to disturb the arrow or hurt your fingers.
Another reason for finger pressure is that there's rotational torque between your hand and the string. More simply, you're twisting the string and pushing your fringers into the arrow nock - Don't do that!!!
Also make sure you're using a deep hook, meaning that the string is actually in the crease of thr first joint or deeper and NOT on the finger tips.
Hope that helped.
Viper1 out.
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908 Posts
****:
Another remedy, a good one is to cock your index finger forward a bit, as if it were reaching for the trigger of a gun. This way it will take little weight and not be pinched. The weight will fall on the lower two fingers, which is just fine by me.
Another remedy, a good one is to cock your index finger forward a bit, as if it were reaching for the trigger of a gun. This way it will take little weight and not be pinched. The weight will fall on the lower two fingers, which is just fine by me.
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318 Posts
Longbowguy.
I shot compound like that for years, my index finger literally pointed at the target, so i guess you could say i was 2 fingers under, but when i switched to recurve about 2 yrs ago i changed my anchor to a more conventional split finger. Over here in the UK the NFAS rules say you must have your index finger next to the nock at all times for barebow. It took me a while to find the best tab for the job, i made my own.
**** uk
I shot compound like that for years, my index finger literally pointed at the target, so i guess you could say i was 2 fingers under, but when i switched to recurve about 2 yrs ago i changed my anchor to a more conventional split finger. Over here in the UK the NFAS rules say you must have your index finger next to the nock at all times for barebow. It took me a while to find the best tab for the job, i made my own.
**** uk
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44 Posts
Viper1
you mean you are supposed to pull the string at the first crease of your knuckles and not on the figertips? I thought you are supposed to use the fingertips. I thought I read that somewhere. Perhaps I am mistaken. Can you tell me why that is?
longbowlover
you mean you are supposed to pull the string at the first crease of your knuckles and not on the figertips? I thought you are supposed to use the fingertips. I thought I read that somewhere. Perhaps I am mistaken. Can you tell me why that is?
longbowlover
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lbl -
Shooting off the figer tips is the second biggest mistake that some shooters make. (The first is over bowing themselves - enough about that
).
The end game behind a "deep hook" is of course consistency. The details are a little more interesting.
Yes, as dgf said it does give you a more consistent place to put your fingers, but more importantly, it takes less work and gives you a faster release. By going "deep", it allow the rest of the hand to relax and so there less of a chance for torque and the fingers actually open faster that when your trying to hold the string on your finger tips. (Less muscle strength is required to hold the string in the crease than on the tips.) There's also a "ballooning" effect that occurs with the string on the tips of your fingers, the fluid in them gets pushed to the tip and there's lump or balloon that the string has to jump over.
Hope that makes sense.
Viper1 out.
Shooting off the figer tips is the second biggest mistake that some shooters make. (The first is over bowing themselves - enough about that
).The end game behind a "deep hook" is of course consistency. The details are a little more interesting.
Yes, as dgf said it does give you a more consistent place to put your fingers, but more importantly, it takes less work and gives you a faster release. By going "deep", it allow the rest of the hand to relax and so there less of a chance for torque and the fingers actually open faster that when your trying to hold the string on your finger tips. (Less muscle strength is required to hold the string in the crease than on the tips.) There's also a "ballooning" effect that occurs with the string on the tips of your fingers, the fluid in them gets pushed to the tip and there's lump or balloon that the string has to jump over.
Hope that makes sense.
Viper1 out.
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44 Posts
I don't know a great deat about physics but what I was told is that when you use the fisrt knuckle there is some rolling of the string that occurs that can affect the arrow flight. Is this anything that I need worry about?
longbowlover
longbowlover
I've found that if the arrow is coming off the rest/ shelf when drawing it's because the fingers are too tight on the arrow - not enough gap between the fingers cause you to pinch the arrow and as you draw, the torque of your hand pulls the arrow off the rest. It may not seem like your'e doing it.
For some time you may need to consciously keep the fingers apart. Beginners often have this problem.
The tab with the spacer is a good idea if you like a tab. Personally i prefer a glove.
For some time you may need to consciously keep the fingers apart. Beginners often have this problem.
The tab with the spacer is a good idea if you like a tab. Personally i prefer a glove.
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20,557 Posts
lbl -
The string is supposed to roll off the fingers. That's factored in the the archer's paradox and so the required arrow spine.
bcoulter -
Standard form is the string in the first joint of all three fingers, but that's not carved in stone. Some (myself included) pull about 85% with the middle and ring fingers (yeah, they're calloused) and 15% with the index finger. The index finger is there to act as a stabilizer and stop the hand twist on the string. The index and middle finger pull is also a viable option, BUT, in that case the ring finger becomes the stabilizer and needs to do 15% or less work. (All % approximate). Basically you have options once you understand the dynamics of each!
Good luck!
Viper1 out.
The string is supposed to roll off the fingers. That's factored in the the archer's paradox and so the required arrow spine.
bcoulter -
Standard form is the string in the first joint of all three fingers, but that's not carved in stone. Some (myself included) pull about 85% with the middle and ring fingers (yeah, they're calloused) and 15% with the index finger. The index finger is there to act as a stabilizer and stop the hand twist on the string. The index and middle finger pull is also a viable option, BUT, in that case the ring finger becomes the stabilizer and needs to do 15% or less work. (All % approximate). Basically you have options once you understand the dynamics of each!
Good luck!
Viper1 out.
I tried shooting with a new glove before it had been broken in. The leather was stiffer and thicker than the one I usually use and all my arrows were shooting to the left. The problem stopped when I switched back to my old glove. I presume that this is much the same effect as shooting with finger tips and rolling the string more.
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