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Discussion Starter #1
I need to replace my cavalier tab material and get a backup. My tab is about 18 years old and I can't remember how it came originally. When i was looking at the cavalier website, I noticed it listed backing material, rubber layer and a main layer (cordovan, suede or hair). How many layers do they come with now?

Anyone use and have an opinion on the Win & Win 360?
 

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The last several Elites I've purchased had two layers, the suede backing and the Cordovan face. I purchase the optional rubber backing and place it between the suede and the cordovan. Feels better on my old fingers. (smile)

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The last several Elites I've purchased had two layers, the suede backing and the Cordovan face. I purchase the optional rubber backing and place it between the suede and the cordovan. Feels better on my old fingers. (smile)

Dave
Yeah, I was thinking I needed a little more padding as well. So you can add a third layer .... cool to know.
 

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Bicycle inner tube also works, if you don't want to make an order from Cavalier or LAS solely for a piece of rubber.
 

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I have used both the caviler and win&win tabs, they both are great tabs you realy cant go wrong with them, although the 360 is much more geared towards the BEST method style shooting, i prefer the 360 and the way it feels in my hand but thats just my oppinion everyone is diffrent so. (i would sugest going down to your local shop and puting both on to kinda get the feel for them and see which one suites you the best)
 

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I have 4-5 Cavaliers I rotate around-the one with the new material is used for blank bale to break it in. I write the date I put the leather on it to keep track. I use the cordovan leather, the suede and the rubber. When we had a shop we bought direct from Cavalier and I would always get Diane to send me the thickest leather they had. I get several years out of a tab, but as I said I rotate them and before tournaments I shoot all 4-5 and pick the two that are giving me the same or closest sight marks.

I have shot the cavalier every possible way-started with no spacer and an anchor, then to a spacer from a kant pinch tab, then to the newer (current) cavalier) spacer and finally i removed the anchor. I have also tried it w/0 spacer or anchor for compound and removed the top finger leather since I would draw with all three and drop the top finger.

I have used angels, Somas, wilsons, and spigarellis and I keep coming back to the cavalier. The Cartel Ripoff of the cavalier isn't bad but I like the Tones too much to use a copy:p

BTW I have seen some of the "BEST tabs" that my Dream team kids were given when they went out there. I am going to stick to the cavalier!:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have used both the caviler and win&win tabs, they both are great tabs you realy cant go wrong with them, although the 360 is much more geared towards the BEST method style shooting, i prefer the 360 and the way it feels in my hand but thats just my oppinion everyone is diffrent so. (i would sugest going down to your local shop and puting both on to kinda get the feel for them and see which one suites you the best)
Problem is most places around here don't carry both brands and I'm a lefty so that makes it even harder.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bicycle inner tube also works, if you don't want to make an order from Cavalier or LAS solely for a piece of rubber.
Might try that as well. I need to get a replacement face anyway so I just trying to figure out what to get. Also, I forgot what size my tab is.. anyone have the measurements of the sm, med, and lg tab faces?
 

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I have 4-5 Cavaliers I rotate around-the one with the new material is used for blank bale to break it in. I write the date I put the leather on it to keep track. I use the cordovan leather, the suede and the rubber. When we had a shop we bought direct from Cavalier and I would always get Diane to send me the thickest leather they had. I get several years out of a tab, but as I said I rotate them and before tournaments I shoot all 4-5 and pick the two that are giving me the same or closest sight marks.

What criteria do you use to determine if the leather is worn out and needs to be replaced on a tab? How often do you rotate your tabs? How often do you shoot to get years out of a tab? Do you stagger replacing the leather on the tabs you have in rotation?

I shoot W & W 360 tabs (they fit my hand better than the Cavaliers) and I was getting blisters on my fingers through the tab. At a class with George Ryals my bandaids were spotted and he suggested I add a layer of the loop side of velcro on the finger side of the tab. That solved the blistering problem, but the velcro flattens out over time. I was thinking of drilling out the rivets on my tabs (current and out of commission) so I could change out the leather and suede backing. What do you recommend, rubber between the layers, velcro, or something else?

Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
 

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I shoot W & W 360 tabs (they fit my hand better than the Cavaliers) and I was getting blisters on my fingers through the tab. At a class with George Ryals my bandaids were spotted and he suggested I add a layer of the loop side of velcro on the finger side of the tab. That solved the blistering problem, but the velcro flattens out over time. I was thinking of drilling out the rivets on my tabs (current and out of commission) so I could change out the leather and suede backing. What do you recommend, rubber between the layers, velcro, or something else?
what i do with my 360s is just glue a piece of 1/8" thick stiff felt (the stuff that comes in a sheet instead of a roll) to the finger side of the tab. it breaks in within a day or two and lasts the better part of a year, if not more.
 

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BTW I have seen some of the "BEST tabs" that my Dream team kids were given when they went out there. I am going to stick to the cavalier!:wink:[/QUOTE]

*gasp* you dont like them? i love mine i just hate breaking it in cause its so thick. rite now im shootin a soma with a BEST spacer b/c i dont want to break in a new tab before SI cup
 

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I have 4-5 Cavaliers I rotate around-the one with the new material is used for blank bale to break it in. I write the date I put the leather on it to keep track. I use the cordovan leather, the suede and the rubber. When we had a shop we bought direct from Cavalier and I would always get Diane to send me the thickest leather they had. I get several years out of a tab, but as I said I rotate them and before tournaments I shoot all 4-5 and pick the two that are giving me the same or closest sight marks.

What criteria do you use to determine if the leather is worn out and needs to be replaced on a tab? How often do you rotate your tabs? How often do you shoot to get years out of a tab? Do you stagger replacing the leather on the tabs you have in rotation?

I shoot W & W 360 tabs (they fit my hand better than the Cavaliers) and I was getting blisters on my fingers through the tab. At a class with George Ryals my bandaids were spotted and he suggested I add a layer of the loop side of velcro on the finger side of the tab. That solved the blistering problem, but the velcro flattens out over time. I was thinking of drilling out the rivets on my tabs (current and out of commission) so I could change out the leather and suede backing. What do you recommend, rubber between the layers, velcro, or something else?

Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge!
1) feel-when the tab no longer feels the same as the other ones.

2) I use two for indoor-and the newer of those two for outdoor along with a third. The newest tab (least broken in) I use for blank bale since that wears it in.

3) two of my current tabs that feel good have 1-2005 and 5-2005 on the leather-I write the date when I put the leather on. THe one I changed was 7-04 but it was thin to start with. The newest one I am actually shooting targets with just came from the blank bale range-2-06


4) My goal is to have at least 2 and hopefully three tabs that feel pretty much the same and group at the same place on the target at 70M

as to thickening your tab, a rubber sheet like I have on my cavalier might work. I don't know what velcro would be like soaking wet or how it would wear.. I stopped using angels because I couldn't replace stuff and as I noted, I used to get hand picked leather-now I buy several leather faces and pick the thickest. I have enough students who shoot large cavaliers and some like the thinner leather.
 

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Jim,
I hate to pass on this bad news to you, but Dick and Diane Tone are no longer associated with Cavalier. I found out when I called there and asked to speak to Diane. Shortly thereafter, I spoke to Dick, at the Arizona Cup. He is still doing some coaching and Diane is still DOS/Judging at some events (she was DOS at the Az. Cup), but that seems to be the extent of their involvement with the sport.
The folks at Cavalier did tell me that they would endeavor to provide me with the thickness of face that I desire, as Diane always did.
 

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That's interesting because just over a year ago, Dick encouraged me to try the (then) new champion II arrow rest that Cav. is making. I guess they stepped away since then? Too bad. Darn nice people that have really made a difference in this sport.

As for the tabs - what Dave T said. I now can use two layers that came with mine (cordovan face and suede leather backing) because I don't shoot nearly as much as I used to. Back when I was seriously training, I needed to add a third layer of thin leather, and even still I needed to occasionally use some coban to wrap my fingers.

John.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
While were on the subject, where does the leather end in relation to your finger tips. Do you like it even or with a little bit extending past the finger tips.?
 

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With the fingers flat or curled?

John.
 

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I used to get hand picked leather-now I buy several leather faces and pick the thickest. I have enough students who shoot large cavaliers and some like the thinner leather.
If you have a local Tandy Leather store, you can buy enough leather in whatever thickness you want, a swivel knife and a punch, to last a lifetime for the cost of a good sit-down steak dinner.
 

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While were on the subject, where does the leather end in relation to your finger tips. Do you like it even or with a little bit extending past the finger tips.?
In this tab length question i would be also interested in your opinions, i feel the shot comfortable when on my index finger the tab in curved condition is just about reaching the middle of the last part of the finger, but i have doubts that maybe it is a bit too short, as the skin is getting quite thick at the line where the tab ends, but i have a feeling if it is longer it is kind of loose.... so what is the recommended good tab length....?

In the picture you can see what i mean, is this normal, or my tab is too short?


Thanks in advance.
 

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One way to determine this is with a "sacraficial" tab face.

Once you get nice indentation in the tab face (left intenionally long) you can begin to trim the face back parallel to the string indentation, trimming less than you think you need.
Shoot some more shots.
Trim a little more.
Shoot some more.
Trim a little more.
So on and so forth....

The goal is to trim untill you get some contact with the string as it leaves your finger (during a relaxed normal release).

Once this contact is achieved, you've gone too far and this is the "bench mark" or "low water mark" and you can cut your good tab(s) slightly longer than this.
This will assure that your tab face is not too long.

This is something that will take more than a few hours and maybe even several days to arrive at.
Pay attention to the details and go slow.
HTH and good luck!
 
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