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So I found the Ranch Fairy last year and fell into the whole heavy arrow build. I bought the field point test kit, heavy insert/outsert (Adjustable outsert system:125-200 gr w/60gr sleeve) and switched to GT Kinetic Kaos 300s. I'm also shooting a Mathew VXR 28 w/70lb and 27" draw. With that, a couple of questions: 1) Do I just put in the full 200gr insert and 60gr outsert and bareshaft tune the arrow with the test kit? 2) Do I just use the GT insert/outsert and use the test kit? 3) The bow has been previously tuned but now that I'm running with a stiffer arrow, do I need to start over again with the tuning process? 4) Did I just waste a bunch of money and now owe the wife an date night that includes going to Target? Thank you in advance
 

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With all that weight in front the 300 spine is gonna be to weak, Even at a 26” arrow. With just a 100gr insert & 125gr head you could probably get away with the 300’s but then it sounds like you want have the total arrow weight you want, you could also add more weight to the front & drop the draw weight a little at a time. Also a heavy lighted nock on the back end would stiffen the spine a little bit. I would say you need at least a 250 spine or maybe a 150 depending on how much weight you want to hang on the front.


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My experience last season for what it's worth:

I started with a bow squared and in spec - center shot, correct nock position for arrows I was testing, ATA, brace height, etc. Then I purchased two arrows (a 300 spine and a 250) from the same manufacturer. I weighed and installed the stock inserts. Then I shot each point weight bare shaft through paper at about 7 yards. No additional bow tuning or nock tuning. For each spine, I found two point weights that were very near bullet holes. Once I selected my spine and total point weight, I bought adjustable Ethics inserts and put most of the weight into the broadhead when I built up a dozen. For my hunting setup, I'm shooting a 250 spine Easton Bowhunter with 75 grain inserts and a 200 grain single bevel broadhead. 275 up front was the magic number for that spine for me (25 grain insert + 250 grain field point).

I did shoot my hunting setup in the first 3D tournament I shot in January (my target rig wasn't ready), and had no problems out to 45 yards even with the nearly 600 grain TAW setup.

My advice is don't settle on a specific spine or up front weight until you do some testing. You may want to go to a 250, you may want to stay with a 300. 175 up front might be best, or it could be 300. It all depends on what your bow "eats" the best.
 

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As I understand it, the field points of various weights should be used with a standard insert to figure out the total point (point and insert) weight. From there, you can play around with it. For example if you arrive at a total point weight of 250, you have a choice of insert vs BH weight combinations that equal 250. If 175, you could run 25gr insert and 150gr BH or 50gr insert and 125gr BH (which opens the door to many standard BH's).

Keep in mind the market for this kit is folks who have their bow set to factory spec and no access to a press to tune. You're tuning the arrow vs tuning the bow, though you might end up tuning via rest movement or nocking point to get perfect flight.

Perfect flight is the goal without sacrificing structural integrity, not a targeted weight. If a 600gr TAW with 19% FOC flies like crap, you're worse off than if your bow likes a 450gr TAW with 12% FOC, etc.

Ranch Fairy has changed his approach and "tune" (ha!) in the last year or so, the more he messes with things. It used to be very much "heavy! high FOC!", but he has ratcheted that back and is promoting arrow flight first and foremost. Also keep in mind he is shooting at hogs, at feeders, with a generally set target distance. This allows him to best gauge what happens when shots aren't perfect. Obviously, physics don't lie: Mass beats speed. But, if you are hunting out west and might have farther shots or some unknown distance shots on a spot and stalk, it won't be the end of the world if you find two different sweet spots and choose the lighter of the two.

Have fun. Play around with it. But be open to your bow not agreeing with your target weight or FOC numbers.

ETA: Watch this video.

 

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redman
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I have a 27 draw and shoot a Mathews triax at 60 lbs I have good luck shooting 300 spine gold tip pro hunter with 100 grain insert And 125 grain head Arrow length 28 inch my total arrow weight is about 500 grains This works great with FR set up I play with the length of arrow to get 300 spine to work This is a hard hitting set up
 

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So I found the Ranch Fairy last year and fell into the whole heavy arrow build. I bought the field point test kit, heavy insert/outsert (Adjustable outsert system:125-200 gr w/60gr sleeve) and switched to GT Kinetic Kaos 300s. I'm also shooting a Mathew VXR 28 w/70lb and 27" draw. With that, a couple of questions: 1) Do I just put in the full 200gr insert and 60gr outsert and bareshaft tune the arrow with the test kit? 2) Do I just use the GT insert/outsert and use the test kit? 3) The bow has been previously tuned but now that I'm running with a stiffer arrow, do I need to start over again with the tuning process? 4) Did I just waste a bunch of money and now owe the wife an date night that includes going to Target? Thank you in advance

Lets see if I can answer all of your questions?

How do you go about tuning your bow ? Tuning is so subjective and relative to the shooter. The assumption could be make is you check final tune with broadheads. IMO you need to pick the point and insert weight you want to shoot don't let the bow pick for you. I can move tophats then rest in order to get arrows to fly well. At your specs with my notes I could only run a 165 grain insert with 100 upfront and then it began to show inconsistency. Just my two cents, you would be better off going to a .250 spine. You can use the GT insert/outsert and then the test kit. If you decide to to ethics static adjustable system it will change it ever so slightly (your tune). I am no longer an FOC advocate but if you must shoot it I would recommend putting it in the insert. that way you can find 100 and 125 grain broadheads with ease. Don't have to worry about the mail, UPS, Fedex loosing them or waiting weeks to get them because Man. is out of materials or has a really backed up line.

Any time you change your setup you need to check your tune. Anything new you had or do to the bow you need to at least check the previous tune that was on the bow. I also don't recommend bareshaft tuning the way Troy tells you and his followers to. Once the bow is sighted in take a fletch and a bareshaft shoot them at the so spot and notice the POI. If they are not together - do what it takes or needs to bring them together. I have had several bareshafts that flew really straight but when I shot my fletched shaft they weren't any where close and don't get me started on broadheads.

to your last question it just depends. I shoot 27.5 on a mathews and then get my string custom built a little longer as mathews always runs long. 27.5 in mathews usually puts me around 27.65-28.1 just depends. That being said at the draw I know I can shoot a 26" arrow but it forces me to use a small COC or mechanical. So first go pick out the broadhead of choice.
 
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