Archery Talk Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys I just recently got a hoyt pro comp elite 60lb with 7.5 spirals. I shot it got it to shoot bullets but it was just to long so I got a set of 6.5s and made a string for it.

got the cams swapped out but now the bottom cam has quite a bit of lean to it enough that the draw stop just grazes the cable. I swapped the shims putting the wider spacer on the right and the thinner one on the left.

made it worse now it hits dead on the cable.

can someone let me know what the spacer config should be? I thought I laid them out right when I took it off but maybe not.

also better let me know what the tops should be too there is a red larger spacer and a white smaller spacer.


what is the differences from 1-4 on the draw stop peg? I assume different let offs can someone clarify for me.

any other tips would be great

Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20,671 Posts
Made sure that both large spacers were on the cable guard side

Still hits
In order to make the cam lean the other way a little bit, you need to move the cam towards the lean. If it's leaning too far to the right, move the cam to the right and it'll lean more left. It does that because as you move the cam to the right, it pulls more on the right end of the axle and causes a little more lean to the left.

I'm not a Spiral expert but if there are different holes for the draw stop peg, that will change your letoff and the DL based on where on the cam the holes are.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In order to make the cam lean the other way a little bit, you need to move the cam towards the lean. If it's leaning too far to the right, move the cam to the right and it'll lean more left. It does that because as you move the cam to the right, it pulls more on the right end of the axle and causes a little more lean to the left.

I'm not a Spiral expert but if there are different holes for the draw stop peg, that will change your letoff and the DL based on where on the cam the holes are.
So if my bottom cam is leaning

/

Move the small spacers to the right side of the cam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20,671 Posts
So if my bottom cam is leaning

/

Move the small spacers to the right side of the cam
Yep that will make the top of the cam angle back to the left a little more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
I swapped limbs and GTX cams over to new limbs and Spirals a few weeks ago on my PCE XL. When setting the bow up on the draw board I noticed the same thing, the bottom draw stop was lightly brushing the control cable as it passed under it as the cam rotated. Also the buss cable made contact with the draw stop close to the cam, not in it's centre. Sorry for low quality pic's, crappy phone and I only took them for my own reference.

Below, stop brushing under control cable:
Stop brushing cable.jpg

Below, buss cable hitting stop off centre, close to cam side:
Stop on cable.jpg

The first thing I did was this - You'll notice on one side of the bottom axle there's a small washer or spacer beneath the "E-Clip". I took this washer off and put it on the inside of the limb beside the black spacer, effectively increasing the inside spacer thickness on this side. This improved things a little.

Next thing I did to improve things was this - You'll notice in the pic's that on the top of the cam there's a grey spacer (this is the left side of the cam). Well, when I was swapping limbs I noticed that the original was cracked to I ordered up 2 new ones, one to replace the broken one and one to keep as a spare. This spare, grey spacer was ever so slightly thicker than the combined thickness of the black spacer and washer combination mentioned in the step above. So I removed that black spacer/washer combination and substituted the spare grey spacer that I had in their place. After this there was a further slight improvement and I had about 1mm clearance now between the control cable and the draw stop as the cam rotated. The buss cable was hitting closer to the centre of the draw stop at full draw as well.

I was happy enough with this but the final thing I did was to remove a tiny washer from between the draw stop itself and the cam, maybe about 0.5mm thick. End result was about 1.5mm clearance between the draw stop and control cable during rotation and the buss cable hitting pretty close to centre of draw stop at full draw.

So a few weeks ago I was new to Spirals like yourself so I'll tell you what I think of them if that helps any. I really love them. Reading through posts here you can get the impression that for some the Spirals are very aggressive and this worried me a bit. I needn't have worried. Honestly I find these cams slightly smoother in their build up than the GTX cams and the back wall is rock solid in comparison, feels really nice to me. People say that they wont let you creep if you get lazy and this is true as the valley is shorter but I didn't really creep anyway so it didn't really make any difference for me. They do drop into the valley more suddenly than what I was used to (GTX) and this was possibly one of the biggest differences I felt at first. My groups are not fantastic but my bareshafts grouped with my fletched arrows at 18m too straight away, I just tweaked a buss cable leg to get rid of a nock left (or right, can't remember). So far I really like them, now it's up to me to get better!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,499 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·


Moved the thick spacer to the right side and now it clears but just by a fuz with the lock washer removed going to try and take the top pre lean out and see
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top