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Hello, I recently bought a SF forged with 30# Axiom limbs and, being new to the world of olympic recurves, have some questions. I am using the same arrows that I was using on my 40# recurve for now and am curious about fletchings and their orientation with respect to the plunger button and arrow rest.

My arrows have the cock feather oriented either straight down or straight up so it can slide through the V arrow rest on my compound. On the recurve it looks like this:
11-17-2013 phone offload 774.jpg
11-17-2013 phone offload 778.jpg

I was getting streaks on my riser that look like this:
11-17-2013 phone offload 772.jpg
11-17-2013 phone offload 773.jpg

When I get new arrows do I want the cock feather to point to the left so that the plunger button slides along the arrow between the two fletchings opposite the cock feather?
 

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I think it has more to do with you being overspined now, those marks could be from your nocks. It doesn't actually matter which way the feathers point (that was a surprise to me too). Good looking bow too!
 

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When you say it doesn't matter which way the feathers point you mean it doesn't matter as long as nothing is crashing into anything, right? If a fletching is hitting the plunger that would be a problem I'd imagine.

Would incorrect spine cause this kind of issue or are the problems related to incorrect spine more subtle (hitting left/right of where you'd expect the arrows to)?

I hadn't actually considered that it could be the nocks themselves. When I was shooting before these pictures I didn't have a nock point on my string yet so it's very possible I was nocking too high and throwing my arrow nocks down into the riser.
 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGNslUNBrEM

This slow-mo video will give you an idea of what happens when the arrow performs its bend, or paradox, at the shot. Notice how the arrow wags and the fletching and nock clear the plunger area completely.

Incorrect spine can certainly cause problems with clearance. If the arrow is too stiff, the "wag" won't be quite sufficient to clear the shelf area. If your arrows were fairly well-tuned for your 40# bow, this may then be the case, for they may be too stiff for the 30# bow. A heavier point weight might help if this is the situation. There is, unfortunately, the chance that you may need new shafts if the spine is simply just plain too stiff for that bow.

A too-low nock point can also create clearance problems, as well. You can use masking or painters tape strips to make temporary and easily removable nocks, set the first one fairly high, say at 6/8" or even one inch. Shoot a few, observe, take notes. Pull off the tape and put a new piece at 5/8". Shoot, observe, take notes. Then 4/8, 3/8, maybe getting too low at 2/8, 1/8, even 0" just to see what happens. Somewhere in there will be a decent nock location. It is not unusual for nocking points to range from 3/8" to 6/8" ... so believe what you observe. Much lower or higher on the nocking point for decent flight probably indicates a different problem at play.

http://eastonarchery.com/software

Download the Easton Arrow Tuning and Maintenance Guide and look at the diagram that tells you how to offset your shaft looking down the center-line of the string (Page 3, Figure 7). Make sure your shaft is slightly offset away from the riser and is not dead-straight down the string's center, or even inside the string towards the riser. You may already have this okay, but I mention this just in case.

Cock feather to the left (or out) is a standard recurve configuration. Many will always orient the arrow on the bow this way, while others prefer cock-in. Some even slap the arrow onto the string with no concern as to the cock orientation, either out or in. But in general, the shafts are fletched in the jig with the cock feather oriented in the perpendicular-to-the-string manner.

Good luck.
 

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Another good vid is found here:

http://www.wernerbeiter.com/de/informationen/videoclips.php

On the right hand side of the page are the links to the vids, and you want the top one that starts with "High-Speed...". At the end of the vid they also show how the nock end drops on release.

Unless the arrow and bow are tuned just right vanes are a problem...so better to go with feathers.

Nice bow you have there!

Here is some info on a first bow:
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=1588147

Here is some vid on form and exercises:
http://www.archerygb.org/support/operations/coaches/coaching_videos.php

Here is some info on tuning:
http://veraxservice.net/arch/tune.html

Good Luck!
 
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