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Fletching with Platinum, in less than an hour

890 Views 12 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  VoiceBugler
Had a guy show me a technique that you can use to get the "flexible bond" of fletch tite platinum, but still fletch a doz arrows in less than an hour. I have been doing this for the past year or so now with great results, so I figured I would pass it along.

First, let me say- if you like your glue, stick with it. I am just a fan of the characteristics of platinum because the bond seems to be flexible and not brittle like the fast set glues.

OK- 1) Clamp your fletching, then lay a bead of glue down the fletch. Use a normal bead- I am fairly generous but not sloppy with it.

2) Then set your clamp on the arrow and seat it- just like you normally do.

3) (your gonna call this stupid but I swear it works), next, slightly pull the clamp/vane strait away from the arrow shaft to expose about 1/4" to 3/8" gap between the fletch and the arrow, and blow gently on the arrow/vane/clamp area.

4) Seat the clamp and vane a second time, then immediately remove it again (exactly as described above) , and blow on it gently again.

5) You will notice on the second or third time you separate the vane/clamp from the shaft that the platinum glue will start to "string" from the vane to the shaft. As soon as you see this "stringing", set the clamp hard and hold it for 10-15 seconds. After 10-15 seconds, IT IS DONE - remove the clamp and go to next fletch. (CLAMP TIME IS 10-15 SECONDS- PERIOD).

I have fletched 4 or 5 dozen arrows this past year doing this. The platinum bonds tight and this does not seem to affect adhesion at all- my latest were my axis nanos with wraps. The only vane that has came off was from grouping arrows, and the wrap came off with the fletch exposing bare shaft.

Like I said- I have been doing this for a year or so (prob fletched 6 or 7 doz arrows) and I am getting a dozen done in just under an hour- when the clamp time used to take me several evenings (with one clamp) to get a dozen finished.

Try it for yourself- If you like platinum- you will love this.
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· Bowhemian
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I use Bohning Fletching Tape. It takes two or three arrows to develop the technique of applying it. After that you get faster and faster.

It is much neater than any glue and I can fletch an arrow ready-to-shoot in less than one minute (no exaggeration) and I've never had a feather loosen or come off.

Also, it strips off very easily.
 

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Have you tried this w/o wraps?
I've had some trouble with fletch tite platinum on bare carbon, or even aluminum. With wraps it's ok and no probs. But I had a bunch of vanes fell of when I fletched w/o wraps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have done it on bare aluminum, but I have always used wraps on carbon because it seems easier to remove old fletch with wraps as opposed to scraping. Having said this, I know the shop owner who taught me this deal used it on everything including bare carbon.
 

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Clean the shaft

Have you tried this w/o wraps?
I've had some trouble with fletch tite platinum on bare carbon, or even aluminum. With wraps it's ok and no probs. But I had a bunch of vanes fell of when I fletched w/o wraps.
You must clean the shaft, and sometimes the vane if you dont use wraps. You can search on here for different chemicals you can use but I prefer denatured alcohol. I will say that I started using wraps a couple of years ago and cant go without them. It is so much easier than not using them when it comes time to refletch. I usually cut a standard wrap down to a little longer than the fletching that I am using. I also like to use black fletchings and a white wrap, that way it is easier to find the arrow after a pass through but the arrows are nearly invisible on the 3d range. They look pretty cool too. Just my .02
 

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Have you tried this w/o wraps?
I've had some trouble with fletch tite platinum on bare carbon, or even aluminum. With wraps it's ok and no probs. But I had a bunch of vanes fell of when I fletched w/o wraps.
I had this problem (especially with axis camo shafts ) , but I started cleaning with acetone and sanding the shaft with 320 grit sand paper and they stick great. :)

Now I sand all my shafts, just enough to rough up the surface a bit. :darkbeer:
 

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You must clean the shaft, and sometimes the vane if you dont use wraps. You can search on here for different chemicals you can use but I prefer denatured alcohol. I will say that I started using wraps a couple of years ago and cant go without them. It is so much easier than not using them when it comes time to refletch. I usually cut a standard wrap down to a little longer than the fletching that I am using. I also like to use black fletchings and a white wrap, that way it is easier to find the arrow after a pass through but the arrows are nearly invisible on the 3d range. They look pretty cool too. Just my .02
I fletch all my outdoor shafts (skinny ones) with wraps, so no probs there.
I haven't had much probs with my X7s, that I don't wrap.
But I've had quite a bit problems with club's arrows (I do all the refletching for our club), and for now those arrows don't have wraps which is why I asked about it... Anyways, I went for the method last nite, when I fletched like 20 shafts, so I'll see for myself how they behave today. Hopefully, they'll stick better (yes, I alcohol cleaned both shafts and vanes).
 

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I use Bohning Fletching Tape. It takes two or three arrows to develop the technique of applying it. After that you get faster and faster.

It is much neater than any glue and I can fletch an arrow ready-to-shoot in less than one minute (no exaggeration) and I've never had a feather loosen or come off.

Also, it strips off very easily.
X2
Although I do have the platinum to use onf vanes if need be. But since I use feathers myself it always with the tape.
 

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I didn't read the whole thread but, all I do is:

1) Wrap ETOH cleaned shaft with wrap of your choice
2) Insert shaft into jig and vane(I use Vanetecs and they require no prep) into clamp.
3) Apply glue(I use Fletch-Tite Platinum) liberally. Don't worry about using too much glue.
4) Dab vane on a sheet of paper to remove excess glue.
5) Apply clamp with vane to the shaft/jig.
6) Hold to a count of 15.
7) Carefully remove clamp and repeat.

Once you do all three or four vanes or however many you like, put a small dab of glue on the leading and trailing edge of the vane. Set arrow to the side for drying. I usually stand them up with the nock touching so that the vanes do not come into contact with anything. They are ready to shoot in 15-20 minutes.
 

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I dont even do that when I use Platinum. I just put the fletching in the clamp, put a bead on it and seat it on the shaft and hold the clamp nice and snug for 15 seconds. After that I pull the clamp off and rotate it around. I have never had any come off and I think I would have a hard time pulling them off with a piar of pliers!:wink: It works for me and I can do it quick.
 

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Careful...

I had this problem (especially with axis camo shafts ) , but I started cleaning with acetone and sanding the shaft with 320 grit sand paper and they stick great. :)

Now I sand all my shafts, just enough to rough up the surface a bit. :darkbeer:
I had a Beman rep, several years ago, tell me to NEVER use acetone on an all carbon arrow. It breaks down the resins that are used in the MFG process and will weaken the arrow. I was having a lot of breakage issues at the time. I switched to denatured alcohol on his recommendation and my breakage issues decreased tremendously. I've used tons of acetone and have never had an issue with aluminums or carbon/aluminums, but still will use denatured alcohol for solid carbon shafts. It sounds like it's working for you, but I'm just passing along a tid bit from a rep that was also a very accomplished shooter.
 
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