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Discussion Starter #1
I have two bows(I will not name so no bashing can be done). Both are set at 70#. Both IBO speeds are around 305fps. Both bows are the same draw length. I can tune one with a 350gr. arrow to a perfect bullet hole and get 284fps. The other bow I get 274fps with the same arrow. The problem is with the later bow(274fps) I can not get a bullet hole. I get tear left(weak spine). I then use a 370gr. arrow and then I get a bullet hole at 268fps. The 350gr. arrow is 26.5 inches the 370gr. arrow is 28 inches. Is it just the way the bows tune or is there anything I can do or try to get both to shoot the same arrow. I have tried everything I know to get the second bow to shoot through paper without throwing off the center shot. I could turn down the poundage but I don't want to if at all possible. Any and all help will be appreciated. Thanks. Bow one is 35.5ATA the second is 34ATA.
 

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It could be fletching clearance or cam/idler lean on the second bow, the center shot will depend on cam/idler lean not simply factory spec. You can try twisting the yoke on the side of the tear and see if that helps. Just never twist one yoke till the other is loose and never twist one yoke till the difference in ATA from side to side approaches 1/8".
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Bow 1 is a cam.5 the other is a single cam. I use dropaway rests so I don't think fletch clearance is a problem. pblawler I will double check the idler lean again. That might be the problem. Thank you both for the input.
 

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RAYHUNTS said:
Bow 1 is a cam.5 the other is a single cam. I use dropaway rests so I don't think fletch clearance is a problem. pblawler I will double check the idler lean again. That might be the problem. Thank you both for the input.
You certainly can still have contact with a drop away, just because the launcher arm gets out of the way does not mean fletching will not contact other things like a cable or riser.

Give this a go: Setup and Tuning
 

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JMHO so don't roast me please. Paper tuning is only a starting point. It will get you close but your bows will not be tuned properly. Do the walk back tuning to get your center shot set close to perfection.:wink: Then group or broadhead tune if these are hunting bows. You can find out how to do both by doing a search on here. JMO but I don't paper tune at all anymore.:eek: :wink:
 

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stehawk said:
JMHO so don't roast me please. Paper tuning is only a starting point. It will get you close but your bows will not be tuned properly. Do the walk back tuning to get your center shot set close to perfection.:wink: Then group or broadhead tune if these are hunting bows. You can find out how to do both by doing a search on here. JMO but I don't paper tune at all anymore.:eek: :wink:

If paper tuning is done correctly at the correct distances it cannot be beat because it will without subjectivity tell you if the arrow is flying straight or not and there can be no better arrow flight than straight.
 

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pblawler said:
If paper tuning is done correctly at the correct distances it cannot be beat because it will without subjectivity tell you if the arrow is flying straight or not and there can be no better arrow flight than straight.
Like I said-- JMHO:wink: The best method of setting your center shot is walk back tuning. Sorry, but there's alot of people on here that agree that paper tuning is only the starting point. For most-- yeah, paper tuning is good enough--- for me I want perfection. Paper tuning doesn't do it. :) :darkbeer:
 

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Obviously, for whatever reason, the "poundage sweet spot" for the arrow differs between the two bows.

IF you aren't willing to change the poundage, then why have a compound bow other than to utilize the letoff feature.

IF you want to find the "sweet spot" for that arrow on the bow that won't "bullet hole" at the same poundage as the other bow.....you SHOULD be willing to change the poundage on it....or go with the arrow that does fly correctly.

Again, like most others, however, just cuz you got a bullet hole thru paper does NOT mean the bow will still group tightly at distance. You don't shoot at game or for score on a target while shooting thru paper! MANY people can't get a bullet hole and group tighter than those that can get a bullet hole. Still others CAN tune to a bullet hole and their tuning is pretty much completed.

One other item....a cam 1/2 should be EXPECTED to be somewhat faster than a single cam at the same poundage and drawlength. 10 fps? It would depend on the bows involved, and how the shooter "fits" them, AND also how well the bows are fitted to the shooter too.

Personally, if I wanted to shoot the same arrow out of both bows, then I'd FIND THE POUNDAGE SWEET SPOT for that arrow on BOTH bows...and to heck with the poundage I had to go to in order to get it!

field14:wink: :confused: :cry:
 

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field14 said:
Obviously, for whatever reason, the "poundage sweet spot" for the arrow differs between the two bows.

IF you aren't willing to change the poundage, then why have a compound bow other than to utilize the letoff feature.

IF you want to find the "sweet spot" for that arrow on the bow that won't "bullet hole" at the same poundage as the other bow.....you SHOULD be willing to change the poundage on it....or go with the arrow that does fly correctly.

Again, like most others, however, just cuz you got a bullet hole thru paper does NOT mean the bow will still group tightly at distance. You don't shoot at game or for score on a target while shooting thru paper! MANY people can't get a bullet hole and group tighter than those that can get a bullet hole. Still others CAN tune to a bullet hole and their tuning is pretty much completed.

One other item....a cam 1/2 should be EXPECTED to be somewhat faster than a single cam at the same poundage and drawlength. 10 fps? It would depend on the bows involved, and how the shooter "fits" them, AND also how well the bows are fitted to the shooter too.

Personally, if I wanted to shoot the same arrow out of both bows, then I'd FIND THE POUNDAGE SWEET SPOT for that arrow on BOTH bows...and to heck with the poundage I had to go to in order to get it!

field14:wink: :confused: :cry:

Rayhunts, this is the best advice you've gotten yet. Try it and you'll see.

field14---- great post-- as usual:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all for the information. I will try both the walk back tuning and/or the poundage change. Thanks again.
 

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I agree re: paper tuning, and walk back. You get a bullet hole (not always the best tune) shooting from a few feet. Now you shoot groups at 20 yds. Next 30 yds, and the group is left of the first. Back to 40, and farther left. Move your rest to bring the groups together, and your bullet hole is gone. IMO, paper isn't the most reliable, determining factor of tune. Good groups from varying distances, in a straight vertical line, are what I'm looking for.
 

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pdq 5oh said:
I agree re: paper tuning, and walk back. You get a bullet hole (not always the best tune) shooting from a few feet. Now you shoot groups at 20 yds. Next 30 yds, and the group is left of the first. Back to 40, and farther left. Move your rest to bring the groups together, and your bullet hole is gone. IMO, paper isn't the most reliable, determining factor of tune. Good groups from varying distances, in a straight vertical line, are what I'm looking for.
Yep :)
 

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field14 said:
Obviously, for whatever reason, the "poundage sweet spot" for the arrow differs between the two bows.

IF you aren't willing to change the poundage, then why have a compound bow other than to utilize the letoff feature.

IF you want to find the "sweet spot" for that arrow on the bow that won't "bullet hole" at the same poundage as the other bow.....you SHOULD be willing to change the poundage on it....or go with the arrow that does fly correctly.

Again, like most others, however, just cuz you got a bullet hole thru paper does NOT mean the bow will still group tightly at distance. You don't shoot at game or for score on a target while shooting thru paper! MANY people can't get a bullet hole and group tighter than those that can get a bullet hole. Still others CAN tune to a bullet hole and their tuning is pretty much completed.

One other item....a cam 1/2 should be EXPECTED to be somewhat faster than a single cam at the same poundage and drawlength. 10 fps? It would depend on the bows involved, and how the shooter "fits" them, AND also how well the bows are fitted to the shooter too.

Personally, if I wanted to shoot the same arrow out of both bows, then I'd FIND THE POUNDAGE SWEET SPOT for that arrow on BOTH bows...and to heck with the poundage I had to go to in order to get it!

field14:wink: :confused: :cry:
:thumb: :thumb: You nailed it, nice explanation.
 
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