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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi again guys.

I know I have lots of questions, but I'm just getting back into this game and need all the help I can get.

Was tuning my Triples 300 yesterday. I shoot compound. 59 lbs, 25.5" draw / 27" arrows 110 grn points, X-wings vanes.

I got the nock point and arrow rest adjusted till bare shafts were hitting the same area as fletched shafts.

Now the intersting part: all the bare shafts, over several ends, always entered the group from the left of the fletched arrows, crossed them around mid-shaft (approx) and impacted just right of the fletched shafts.

So what I've got is 3 straight arrows with 3 arrows with a distinct left lean criss-crossing them.

One experienced recurver said "arrows too soft" then he remembered that I was shooting a compound, where paradox was negligable, or non-existant.

What do you think could be the cause of the bare shafts ending up on the board that way? This happened repeatedly and in a consistent manner so I ruled out torque and inconsistencies.

Thanks for your patience and assistance, opinions and advise. ;)
 

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Assuming you're a right hand shooter, I'd say your center shot needs to go away from the bow just a tick. Not much though. You said just leaning sideways, not up or down, so I'd say your nock is good. Remember, your unfletched arrows don't have anything to correct and straighten themselves out, so they are flying all the way to the target like that, thus that's the way they stick. :smile:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Huntmaster. Yes, it's right-handed.

This is what puzzles me. After this happened, I tried both ends of the spectrum:

I moved the rest too far left, the bares went left of fletched at the SAME funny left-to-right angle.

I moved the rest too far right, the bares went right of the fletched at the SAME funny left-to-right angle.

I found the most 'central' rest position and they all go to the same spot ... BUT the bares were still at that funny angle!

Yes, thankfully the vertical angle of both sets of arrows were hitting the same so at least I have one less worry on my mind! hehe...

Finally, I left the rest where they all go banging into each other so at least I know I'm not too far left or right.

The funny sngle still puzzles me though...
 
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Yuor torquing the bow a little, and a bare shaft test with a compound and release is pretty much useless for this reason. Yuor best to get a paper test so your not sending it down side ways then go to long distance a group test macking minor adjustments.
 

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If you aren't torquing your grip. I'd say taking off a tip weight would be a good idea.

Dylan
 

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Assuming you're shooting fingers, you can tune your tackle in the same manner that a recurve shooter does. Easton's "Arrow Tuning and Mainteneace Guide," or some such thing, is an excellent guide for bare shafting. A nock left impact for a right handed shooter generally indicates a soft spine. You can crank up the plunger spring a bit to stiffen things up without adjusting the position of the arrow rest.
 

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Which release are you shooting? Many single caliper releases create a tiny paradox similar to fingers and can show as an angled shaft in the target.

Turn your bow poundage down 1/4 turn at a time and see if it doesn't go away. If so, you can then work on your tip weight, arrow length, fletching weight, etc.... to get them to fly true at the poundage you want.

If this is the case you'll most likely need to move your rest again as the bare shaft will move to the left vs. the fletched group as you go lower in poundage.

Cheers,
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the opinions guys.

I am shooting a Back Tension release Stan MAXIM which is a rotary release type. There could be a little paradox induced. This is something I have to look at.

My Cartel Triple arrows are 300 spine, cut to 27" with a 110grain point. Yes, I can break off two 10 grain sections but I want to keep the front as heavy as possible unless I have no choice.

My bow is a hard cam bow and I set it to 59 lbs. The max I can go either way is 54 lbs to 64 lbs. The off-spec weights are due to custom sizing of my string and cabels to fit my draw.

Right now, the easiest and most reversible step is to try exploring with lowered draw weights and if that improves the arrow flight. If it does, then I will go back up and then decrease the arrow point weight so that I still can get FITA legal draw weight while getting good arrow tuning. This is of course, assuming that there is indeed little or no hand torque.

Once again, thanks guys. This is starting to make sense now! :wink:

Here's one for you :beer: :beer: :beer:
 
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