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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I glued up some blazer vanes on some Easton Platinum shafts and after shooting them for a few sessions noticed one vane had fell off. After checking the rest they all pulled right off with minimal effort. I have glued dozens of carbon arrows with no issues using Max Bond. Just wanted to see what thoughts were on why I had adhesion issues. I take my time, do proper prep ect. Must of missed something on these 馃槴馃槴
 

(aka lug nut)
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I glued up some blazer vanes on some Easton Platinum shafts and after shooting them for a few sessions noticed one vane had fell off. After checking the rest they all pulled right off with minimal effort. I have glued dozens of carbon arrows with no issues using Max Bond. Just wanted to see what thoughts were on why I had adhesion issues. I take my time, do proper prep ect. Must of missed something on these 馃槴馃槴
Add an arrow wrap. Can use waterproof inkjet printer labels. Waterproof coating on the label works great with super glue gel and vanes.
 

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I have built "thousands" of arrows. Wood, Aluminum, fiberglass, Carbon. I had a shop/lanes from 1964 thru 1982 & built 90% that went out the door plus I build all my own & build/repair for 8 family members now. I have used Fletch-tite all those years, bare shaft, Wraps, painted. Never a problem. I now use fletchtite Platinum Plus & my target arrows are Platinum Plus Aluminums (some feathers & some Blazers). I use aluminum shafts for everything, family mostly carbon. My own shaft is bare & I just scuff lightly with fine steel wool & fletch. My kids Carbons, wraps & bare I just fletch. Woods for our Stickbows are dip painted or stained & I just fletch. I have never cleaned a bare shaft with any chemical, just scuff with fine steel wool. Could use a very fine sand paper too. DO NOT touch the area your going to fletch after as the "oil" from your fingers can affect your glue sticking (yes, it does). I also use several type vanes for family (they choose). Glue gets old. Not mine, in use always.
 
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There is more to getting Vanes to stick! First off how old is the Adhesive you are using some go bad over time, same for the vane and the material they are made of as manufacturers change the material used and some Stick and some do not especially older stuff. As for using Wraps I have had Some Brands of Vanes Stick and Others That come off easier So Wraps are not the reason why some Vanes Fall Off / Do Not Stick. As you can see here Most have a Different Idea why a Vane Does Not Stick well and or Falls Off! As for Bohning Platinum Many have had Issue with That Adhesive including myself so I left that and went with Flex Bond Adhesive! But there are other things that can contribute to Vanes / Feathers Not Staying on on the Humidity in the Air is one another is the temperature where you are assembling the Arrows, To cold too hot etc. Another is some think it is required to wrap down the base of the Vane or Feather with something to clean it and again Each has their idea what is best for that few do the same routine as the same for your choice of which Adhesive some like an instant, others many different ones and again If you are in a warm low humidity that might work for some and others have a different environment t deal with and most are never the same. Some Vanes have a different thing they want you to do as the way you clean the arrows surface and some mentioned here roughing up the surface with a Scottbite. Which is the right for the OP hard to Know I have been fletching Aluminum ARrows for 25 plus years now and found that older Adhesives do not work and yet other buy a large tube and let it sit and that could mean it has gone bad. Also could the material the Vane is made from is also old and been sitting on a Rack and you think they are "new" when they might be old stock. So many variables that is Why this Questions comes Up Often. And yet each time many chime on with too many things to really know. As for carbon some have a rougher surface and vanes might Stick yet Aluminum the Surface is Smooth as Glass nothing like some Carbons so you can't judge from fletching carbons as too many different variables! Maybe that is why this Question is always coming Up. Also how do you know exact how old the vanes you have are the same for the Adhesive and things do and can go bad did you get something really old? I guess some assume that a carbon arrow is exact the same as an aluminum Assume Nothing that is the place to start I see it as a Trail Error till you find Out what DOES Work! How do you think companies and distributors stay in Business By Selling and making their stuff. Do not know an adhesive that stays good for very long that would be where to start get a New Tube and see then the vanes as some change their products and what once work might have Changed...

GOOD "LUCK"
LFM
 

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I always used comet powder before fletching aluminum arrows. Gets em clean and scuffed. Also make sure to wipe base of vanes with rubbing alcohol.
 

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91% or 100% rubbing alcohol..
 
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The Impartial Archer
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OP is the glue sticking to the vane when it comes off or to the shaft and the vanes has no glue on it? That will tell you if it's the vane prep or shaft prep. Don't use old glue either way.
 

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I could never get vanes to stick well until I roughed them up with a scotch brite pad and cleaned with acetone and denatured alcohol. Now they stick really well and can't be peeled off by hand for sure. Btw I use blazers to.
 

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When the shop fletches my aluminum arrows, the feathers always fall off. I find glue to be a big mess, so recently switched to tape. It seems to do well as long as I put a drop of fletch-tite at the ends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OP is the glue sticking to the vane when it comes off or to the shaft and the vanes has no glue on it? That will tell you if it's the vane prep or shaft prep. Don't use old glue either way.
Yeah the glue stuck to the vanes fine, I prepped the shaft with rubbing alcohol but did not scuff up the surface at all. Thinking thats where I went wrong. Appreciate all the input from everyone (y)
 

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Use wraps. You con order wraps to fit your arrows from Onestringer. Or you can sand the area that receives the vanes, clean dust with acetone and the glue channel on the fletch. Then never touch the wrap or cleaned area. Use fresh glue, even if you kept it in the refrigerator from a time back. Always add a little clamp time for fletch to aluminum shaft mounting.
 

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A guy I hunt with had the same issue. Had some 2317s refletched and bought new Gamegetters and the feathers didn't adhere. I told him to use a wrap. No problems after that.
 
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Fletchtite works great. It's always good to prep all shafts and vane/feather contact points with 91% rubbing or denatured alcohol. If they're coming unglued, it's most likely due to fine residues like tiny, clinging factory dust particles or natural oils in human hands that handled them. Alcohol removes all that. I've never needed abrasives except when refletching to remove old glue. Then I use a scrubber pad, like Scotchbrite, along with pure acetone.
 

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prepped the shaft with rubbing alcohol but did not scuff up the surface at all. Thinking thats where I went wrong. Appreciate all the input from everyone (y)
Rubbing alcohol has some impurities (tiny bit of oil) in it. Usually only about 70% isopropyl alcohol.

Try 99% isopropyl. Shaft should squeak when you wipe it with an alcohol moistened paper towel.

If you鈥檙e using a CA type glue, use far less than you think you need. On a Blazer, two small drops spread over the base of the vane is more than enough. An activator is always a good idea.
 

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OP then it's shaft prep. Try Ajax & water, alcohol or acetone but make sure the vanes are still compatible because with some like AAE's they are pretreated.

I personally wouldn't use wraps on aluminum arrows. You don't need to to get vanes to stick and they add weight to the wrong end. With carbon being so light that's not a big deal but with aluminum it is IMO. Plus you don't need it.....it's a process issue. Then if you have to re-fletch one it's more trouble than it's worth.

I have never scuffed up an arrow in 30 years of building my own. The guys telling you to do that could be right and it may help and it SURE can't hurt but again it's not something you need to do because i have never done it and I have arrows 30 years old you can't pull the vanes off of.

Most of the arrow & vane combo's I wipe the shaft with alcohol and use slow drying glues like Platinum because (IMO) they are not so brittle when dry....it flexes a bit. Honestly this is another reason of many I still shoot aluminum arrows they are a lot easier to do than carbon because the finishes on carbons vary so much and so do the vanes.....then when you add in the glues it's a LOT of trail & error sometimes getting them to stick.

When I use carbon I have gone to wraps.
 
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