Just remember that they do need some tuning on your part to begin with. You may need to tie in a second noch point to give the FOB some room depending if you have a short ATA bow. Second make sure you are clearing your rest. Third sometimes they hit you on the cheek in an "odd" place, just look at it as a kisser button and I think you will love them. Once I got them I went from shooting a paper plate group @ 70 yards down to about a 5-6" group. Hope you like them and feel free to ask question if you have a problem. Paul is a great guy and always willling to get you set up right.
Going to try FOB's
I just decided to try some FOB's and was just wondering what everyone who shoots them thinks and any pointers on how to shoot them.
Thanks Guys and Gals
Thanks Guys and Gals
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
What he said.:wink:Just remember that they do need some tuning on your part to begin with. You may need to tie in a second noch point to give the FOB some room depending if you have a short ATA bow. Second make sure you are clearing your rest. Third sometimes they hit you on the cheek in an "odd" place, just look at it as a kisser button and I think you will love them. Once I got them I went from shooting a paper plate group @ 70 yards down to about a 5-6" group. Hope you like them and feel free to ask question if you have a problem. Paul is a great guy and always willling to get you set up right.
Heard a lot of good things about them, but was not interested in trying them because I thought they were ugly and I liked the look of vanes much better. I was also shooting my vanes just fine so why bother.
Well, Paul Morris made me a deal I could not refuse so I gave them a shot. Ummm. . . . I am now a believer. I actually think they look pretty cool now also. They were designed for broadheads and that is probably all I will use them for, but they do group much better and do a lot better job at longer distances and in windy conditions.
where do you put the second noch point and why?
What they saidWhat he said.:wink:
Heard a lot of good things about them, but was not interested in trying them because I thought they were ugly and I liked the look of vanes much better. I was also shooting my vanes just fine so why bother.
Well, Paul Morris made me a deal I could not refuse so I gave them a shot. Ummm. . . . I am now a believer. I actually think they look pretty cool now also. They were designed for broadheads and that is probably all I will use them for, but they do group much better and do a lot better job at longer distances and in windy conditions.
And check here for more tuning tips and help.
http://www.fob-nation.com/SMF/
When you tie in a nock point just put a second one over the nock. The reason is that it will give you a little more room on the string to clear the FOB. because the FOB sits so far back on the arrow you need to have a little clearance and the top and bottom nock point will give you that clearance. you may not need it depending on what your DL is or ATA. When you get them look to see if the FOB is touching your string, if so then put the top nock in.
This is to widen out the nock point so that on a short ATA the sharp angle from your release will not pinch the FOB. It may not be a problem it is something you will need to check out when you start shooting.where do you put the second noch point and why?
I believe what he is trying to say with the second knock point is with short Axel to Axel bows there is a bit of problem with the string (at full draw) pinching the FOB. this can be alleviated by widening your D-loop and using the two knocks to keep the loop spread apart.where do you put the second noch point and why?
gotch ya thanks
I have the DXT and a 29" draw and i am not having any issues with contact. they do touch a little but it has had no effect on my groups yet.
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