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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know that in general, if you have a 26" DL and about 40-45 lbs DW (my wife), you'd want a light spine (like a 600). But I've seen people talk about using 22s that have a huge range of DL and DW - all using the same spine. Is there something particular about this arrow? Even though on paper a 300 spine is too stiff for me (27" DL, 62 DW), I'm going to try them. But I'm wondering if the same arrow might work for my wife. Any thoughts?
 

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TRX 34, UV3XL/Landslyde, Like Mike II, Trinity Hunter Pro, GT Series 22, RX-FULLDRAW 4
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Lots of folks shoot stiffer spined arrows and do very well with them. It just requires a good tune and very good form.

I shoot Series 22s at 25.5 carbon-to-carbon with about 120 grains up front and light in the back for about 330 grains total weight.

My draw is 27" and currently backed off to 52 lbs on draw weight. I find these arrows to be very good all around performer for 3D, indoor, and field.
 

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I know that in general, if you have a 26" DL and about 40-45 lbs DW (my wife), you'd want a light spine (like a 600). But I've seen people talk about using 22s that have a huge range of DL and DW - all using the same spine. Is there something particular about this arrow? Even though on paper a 300 spine is too stiff for me (27" DL, 62 DW), I'm going to try them. But I'm wondering if the same arrow might work for my wife. Any thoughts?
Do like we do for indoor spots: leave them a little longer than normal and use a heavier point weight to help break down the spine.
 

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Bowtech Reckoning 38 PSE EVO EVL 34 Xpedition DXL Elite Victory 37
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As Gillingham and many gold tip shooters have proven you can still shoot great even to stiff I would build them cut to the rest and a 80 grain glue in point to keep your speed up and for me at 60# they are stiff and still shoot great from the testing I’ve done
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you decide to try the 22s and don’t have any. I’ve got a TON of short ones laying around. You’re welcome to try them to see. I’m not sure what shipping would be but no cost for the arrows. Best of luck!
Thank you. That is a very nice offer! It turns out that I picked up a few used arrows from another member yesterday, so I'll be giving them a try soon.
 

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Reference the earlier comment about Tim Gillingham.

He suggests that going over spined is ok … just be sure to put enough vane on the back end to help out controlling the arrow.

Check out this thread

 

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My younger brother shoots 22s at 27.5 inches pulling 45 pounds. They fly well for him, as long as you have plenty of weight in the front and good vanes, you should be good. I recommend TAC vanes 2.75-inch drivers 4-fletched. Tim Gillingham doesn't use TAC, but all of his are 4 fletch to get tighter spin and more forgiveness.
 

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Reference the earlier comment about Tim Gillingham.

He suggests that going over spined is ok … just be sure to put enough vane on the back end to help out controlling the arrow.

Check out this thread

That’s BS. When running stiff arrows, and most times heavy, guys run lower point weights to keep up speed. You add to much vane with little weight on front, you can cause flight issues instead of helping. There is a “ to much vane” as well as not enough. Vanes don’t matter anyway if your form and tune are good. I shoot 30x arrows with a 100 grain point cut to 25.5” ctc out of a 50# bow with 27” draw length and stack perfect bareshafts at 30 yards. It’s all about the tune.
 

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That’s BS. When running stiff arrows, and most times heavy, guys run lower point weights to keep up speed. You add to much vane with little weight on front, you can cause flight issues instead of helping. There is a “ to much vane” as well as not enough. Vanes don’t matter anyway if your form and tune are good. I shoot 30x arrows with a 100 grain point cut to 25.5” ctc out of a 50# bow with 27” draw length and stack perfect bareshafts at 30 yards. It’s all about the tune.
I don’t disagree with you, but the problem is that perfect form which constitutes perfect tune doesn’t always happen in real life situations. One of the reasons I don’t always agree with BS tuning. It takes perfect form and perfect conditions. If we all had those we’d shoot perfect scores. I think it’s the bigger more aggressive fletching on stiff arrows that helps correct our imperfections in order to get better, more consistent results under pressure or imperfect conditions . Majority of successful archers shooting large diameter, stiff arrows are typically cutting more air on the vane end. It may be height, length or number of vanes or even the degree of offset/helical.
 

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Shooting 22s with a 27.5 draw length, 62#s. 4 fletch with 100 up front and nock collars out back and they fly really well, even with my sh** tune. I shot a 298 indoors with this setup. Did well on the 3d course last weekend, too. Arrow length was guessed at by the tech at the shop. Pulled a full length arrow to full draw and made a mark about an inch longer than where my rest hits. Prolly about 28". No more tail whip on the shot. Maybe one bad kid flying down range out of the six I've got in rotation. Holding six back for reserves. The tune problems come from my own paper tuning adventure moving the rest until I got a good hole at 7yrds. The bow was tuned at 7/8ths from the riser when I left the shop. I moved the rest until I got a good pass thru and now my rest looks awful to compensate for whatever problems my form throws into it.

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