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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was out shooting and whatnot, setting up different hunting scenarios from different locations, just out practicing. So, for one shot, I knelt down behind a large rock, and fired. But, when I looked at my bow, the bottom of the lower limb had hit the rock. There is now a miniscule crack running from the tip of the lower limb to the base of the string groove. It isn't chipped out, but has that small crack.

So, I need to know, from what Ive told you, can it be repaired, or did I just ruin my $400 bow for good.

Please let me know ASAP.

And if it makes a difference, the bow is a Martin Dreamcatcher 55# @ 28"
 

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Super Glue. Use the liquid kind. Let it soak into the crack then let it set up for about 24 hours.
If it doesnt work you are out 99c. I was told this by a fellow that buids his own LBs and hasnt had any major blow ups yet.(Not that his bows crack at all)
 

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someone i knew said either epoxy or depending on the limbs material to use fiberglass to repair the limb or limbs. if i was you i would go to a shop that deals in traditional and see what they have to say. is it a take down or solid recurve
rob k
 

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I had a similar problem with my old bow some years ago and tried the Super Glue thing and worked perfectly, the crack was not so deep, but I wanted to assure that moisture didn't arrive to wood. In my opinion Super Glue is better than epoxy because is more liquid and has better penetration on fibers.
In other case you can replace juast the lower limb if the dream catcher is a take down (as I have in mind).
Hope you solve it.
Victor.
 

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Had a crack in one of my recurves & was instructed by a professional bowyer to use Loctite 420 to repair it. This stuff's very expensive & not easy to find. I got mine for like $17.00 an ounce from Grainger's. It's like water & will weep into the crack. Mask everything to keep the glue off the finish & apply some pressure if possible. Leave at least 24 hours. Mine hasn't given me any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
yeah, if it was a takedown, I would replace the limb, but it is a solid, so I need it repaired. So, I need to find a really strong very liquid super glue, ant that will fix it?

Had a crack in one of my recurves & was instructed by a professional bowyer to use Loctite 420 to repair it. This stuff's very expensive & not easy to find. I got mine for like $17.00 an ounce from Grainger's.
Well, $17 is still better than $400
 

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:D GUYS: I would like to respond to the use of the Loc-tite products. I am by trade a heavy equipment mechanic and can tell you that the Loc-tite products may be expensive but, they are the best for many uses. The 420 if you read the label should tell you about how wide or in thousands of an inch it can fill gaps. This type you spoke of is thin in consistancy and should work well. I will tell you this-- BUY the stuff in small containers. IT HAS A SHELF LIFE. I use different products by Loc-tite and can say I have never had it fail as long as it was used in accordance with the manufacturers directions. I would be interested to hear your results and how it holds up. They make stuff that I have applied super amounts of heat to and it held up. Also another little trick to help you in a pinch is to use acetone or strong finger nail polish remover to disolve loc-tite. Several applications may be needed but, it will disolve the stuff enough you can salvage what it is you are trying to get apart. Heat works for alot of their products but, you can't always use heat on some stuff. Just wanted to share some info. with you folks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
curverbowruss,

Do you have any idea of how I can get ahold of the loctite 420? I have called around town, and nobody has even heard of it, let alone carries it. Any help would be great.

Jacob
 

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:) Jediknight 114: If you have any place near you that deals in the sale of bearings and seals you should try there. The places I know of back here in PA. are places by the name of Bearings Inc.. They sell the products and you may have to do some digging at your end to locate a store that sells it. Also you could try a auto parts store they may be able to help you on this. I actually work for a Caterpillar dealer and their products have the CAT name on the bottles of product and, I am sure Loc-tite makes the stuff. I believe the 420 if I remember is a purple color with a nasty odor. You know the smell that lets you know that what ever is in it is or must be powerful stuff. Also for some Loc-tite products there is what is called a primer that would be sprayed on first. The surfaces that you will attempt to glue MUST be free of any oil base products first. What the primer does is excellerate the glues cure time. The primer is almost a light color of green and has copper in it. The copper reacts with the glue. Some of the Loc-tite products you do not have to use the primer. It would be best to read the label first. On my end I am going to try and find the brochures and spec. sheets for the 420 and I will post another response when or if I can get you more inf. on the product. I just need to remember where in my mountain of paper work the info. is at.
 

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:) O.K.-- I'm back and, I cannot come up with a spec. sheet on the 420. However there are other possible options. Loc-tite makes two other products that are made to bond wood. The first is a product called PRISM 454 and can be used with a accelerator. The other is called DEPEND NO-MIX ADHESIVE- it comes with the accelerator--its a kit. I also have the phone number for the Loc-tite corporation so you can call them and see if they can hook you up with a company near you that sells their product.TECHNICAL INFO. DIAL--1-800-loc-tite, or 1-800-562-0560. Their address is
Loctite Corporation
705 North Mountain Road
Newington,CT. 06111-9954
The phone number is a technical support line and they can possibly help you get the right stuff. I would stick to what the pro told you. If he says use the 420 and, this has worked for him I would go with it. Just another thing about the use of Loc-tite. The glues are what is called an-aerobic adhesives. This means that they cure where there is no oxygen present, you will need to sqeeze or clamp and let the bow crack set up and, I would say at least 24 hours to be safe. This is why some of the products use a primer or special accelerator spray to aid the glue where there is air present. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 

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Recurve dead or alive

Jedi is ssssshhhhhheeeeee well you know is sssssshhhhhheeeeee dead!:( Give us a sit rep when you can on your recurve, hope she pulls through.
Good luck
Out for now
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SHE LIVES!!!!!

I talked to the Loc-Tite people and they gave me the name of a store in Missoula that sells the 420 stuff. It took them about a week to get it in, but one week and $17.35 later, I had one ounce of the glue. I applied it, then wrapped the limb tip with the backside of masking tape and held it down with a vice grip. Twenty four hours later I pulled the tape off, and beneath it, you can still see the crack, but it is closed and held down tight. So, I took the bow to my archery store so I could test shoot it without the weather throwing off my shots, so I could judge it accuratly.

Once repaired, I was consistently shooting a four inch group at 20 yards. That is a two inch improvement from before the accident. So, in short, my bow is holding together, with the only lasting damage being cosmetic, (dried glue and sandpaper marks) and is shooting better than ever.

Thank you so much for all of the advice and help. If not for you guys, I'd be scraping together more money for another bow.

Once again, thank you very much.
 

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gerinimo...

as for that crack.. its easy to stop it if it ever starts up agian,
you find a teeny drill bit that is just a hair bigger than the crack,
you drill thru the wood at the front of the crack, so that the
tip of the crack is actually into the hole you drilled.. THAT STOPS THE CRACK DEAK IN ITS TRACKS... you then put a piece of masking tape on the back of the hole..fill the hole with epoxy..
put tape on the top of the hole..and let it stay laying level..and
harden.. then remove the tapes and finish the area as you like..
CRACK IS TOTALLY STOPPED FOREVER.
(THE DRILLING OF SMALL HOLE IS THE SAME TECHINIQUE USED IN WINDSHIELDS..AND TEMPORARY REPAIRS TO AIRFRAMES OF JETS)

i have a set of babinga limbs that had a cosmetic flaw that resembled a crack that started running up the entire face of the
limb.. i did a hole that was only a few millimeters in depth and filled it.. that stopped the costmetic crack dead in its tracks.
 
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