We find the best place to attach the activating cord on the V3x bows is 2.5-3" from the limb tip. We don't recommend attaching the cord to the yolk splitter or the Limb Cord Attachment Bracket on the V3x bows.

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We find the best place to attach the activating cord on the V3x bows is 2.5-3" from the limb tip. We don't recommend attaching the cord to the yolk splitter or the Limb Cord Attachment Bracket on the V3x bows.

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Could you elaborate more on why? I currently have a V3X with the cord under the yolk splitter. Saw Chris Bee do it and figured he knows better than I do. Thanks.

 

There are a few reasons we are making these recommendations.

1. The cables aren't as rigid as the limb and will oscillate more during the shot compared to the limb. This oscillation can relieve tension from the limb cord and allow the launcher to "flutter" causing fletching contact.

2. The cables are also easier to influence than the limbs and requires less force to affect the timing of your bow. A great way to test this is to try and push on the limb to get it to flex compared to pushing on the cables to get them to move. Also, when you are able to push on the cables, you can see how it will affect the timing/sync of the cams.

3. When attaching the cord to the yolk splitter or the axle, you loose all ability to adjust the timing of your rest. With limb driven rests, you are able to change the amount of time the launcher is in the full upright position by adjusting where the activation cord is attached to the limb. The closer you move the activation cord to the limb tip, the longer the launcher will be in the upright position. The farther you move the cord from the limb tip, the sooner it will drop during the shot cycle. This amount of guidance definitely has a sweet spot range of 50-70% of the shot cycle or power stroke, but I typically favor my bows being closer to the 50% range. The V3 and V3X line of bows have a lot of limb travel during the draw cycle compared to most of the other Mathews Bows and attaching to the axle or cable splitter will result in guidance well over 70%. When the guidance is more than 70% it can put additional shock into the rest assembly causing additional wear and noise. You can also run into fletching contact with too much guidance that would result in decreased accuracy.

Here is the process I use when choosing the optimal place to attach the activation cord of my rests to the limb.

1. Measure the Power Stroke: With the activation cord disconnected and the launcher in the upright position, nock an arrow and let it set on the launcher. Put a mark on the top of the arrow at the location where arrow is touching the launcher. Using a draw board, bring the bow to full draw and mark the arrow where the launcher is now making contact. The distance between these two marks is the power stroke or distance the arrow is pulled back during the draw cycle.

2. Calculating the Desired Guidance: We want the launcher to guide the arrow for 50-70% of the power stroke. I find the best results for hunting closer to 50%. Since you know the distance of the power stroke, you can calculate the distance for a desired amount of guidance. For example, 50% guidance over a 22" power stroke would 11" of guidance. In this example, you would want the launcher to be in the full upright position for the last 11" of the power stroke. Mark this location on the same arrow used to measure power stroke so that you have a reference for the next steps.(you can mark both the 50% and 70% location so that you know you are in the acceptable range.

3. Dialing In the Optimal Attachment Location: Tie the activation cord around the limb(don't apply the knobby limb pad yet) and apply the recommend tension to the cord. Next, nock the arrow and rest it on the launcher that is currently in the down position. Using the draw board, draw the bow to the point that the launcher just barely reaches the full upright position and reference where the launcher is contacting the arrow in relation to the marks you have just placed on the arrow. If the launcher has not yet reached the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord in the direction of the limb tip. If the launcher is past the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord further from the limb tip. Bring the bow back to the brace position and move the activation cord as needed making sure to properly set the tension on the activation cord each time. Repeat this step until the launcher is guiding the arrow for the desired amount of time.

4. Mark the Location and Install the Knobby Limb Pad: Using a pencil, mark the location of the activation cord that you found gives the desired amount of guidance and then move the cord out of the way.(the pencil mark can later be wiped off) Next, install the knobby limb pad with the center of the pad in line with the pencil mark. Re-install the activation cord with the the cord crossing through the center groove set of the knobby limb pad. Apply the proper amount of tension to the activation cord and enjoy shooting with your properly timed arrow rest.

 

There are a few reasons we are making these recommendations.

1. The cables aren't as rigid as the limb and will oscillate more during the shot compared to the limb. This oscillation can relieve tension from the limb cord and allow the launcher to "flutter" causing fletching contact.

2. The cables are also easier to influence than the limbs and requires less force to affect the timing of your bow. A great way to test this is to try and push on the limb to get it to flex compared to pushing on the cables to get them to move. Also, when you are able to push on the cables, you can see how it will affect the timing/sync of the cams.

3. When attaching the cord to the yolk splitter or the axle, you loose all ability to adjust the timing of your rest. With limb driven rests, you are able to change the amount of time the launcher is in the full upright position by adjusting where the activation cord is attached to the limb. The closer you move the activation cord to the limb tip, the longer the launcher will be in the upright position. The farther you move the cord from the limb tip, the sooner it will drop during the shot cycle. This amount of guidance definitely has a sweet spot range of 50-70% of the shot cycle or power stroke, but I typically favor my bows being closer to the 50% range. The V3 and V3X line of bows have a lot of limb travel during the draw cycle compared to most of the other Mathews Bows and attaching to the axle or cable splitter will result in guidance well over 70%. When the guidance is more than 70% it can put additional shock into the rest assembly causing additional wear and noise. You can also run into fletching contact with too much guidance that would result in decreased accuracy.

Here is the process I use when choosing the optimal place to attach the activation cord of my rests to the limb.

1. Measure the Power Stroke: With the activation cord disconnected and the launcher in the upright position, nock an arrow and let it set on the launcher. Put a mark on the top of the arrow at the location where arrow is touching the launcher. Using a draw board, bring the bow to full draw and mark the arrow where the launcher is now making contact. The distance between these two marks is the power stroke or distance the arrow is pulled back during the draw cycle.

2. Calculating the Desired Guidance: We want the launcher to guide the arrow for 50-70% of the power stroke. I find the best results for hunting closer to 50%. Since you know the distance of the power stroke, you can calculate the distance for a desired amount of guidance. For example, 50% guidance over a 22" power stroke would 11" of guidance. In this example, you would want the launcher to be in the full upright position for the last 11" of the power stroke. Mark this location on the same arrow used to measure power stroke so that you have a reference for the next steps.(you can mark both the 50% and 70% location so that you know you are in the acceptable range.

3. Dialing In the Optimal Attachment Location: Tie the activation cord around the limb(don't apply the knobby limb pad yet) and apply the recommend tension to the cord. Next, nock the arrow and rest it on the launcher that is currently in the down position. Using the draw board, draw the bow to the point that the launcher just barely reaches the full upright position and reference where the launcher is contacting the arrow in relation to the marks you have just placed on the arrow. If the launcher has not yet reached the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord in the direction of the limb tip. If the launcher is past the mark for the desired guidance, then you will need to move the activation cord further from the limb tip. Bring the bow back to the brace position and move the activation cord as needed making sure to properly set the tension on the activation cord each time. Repeat this step until the launcher is guiding the arrow for the desired amount of time.

4. Mark the Location and Install the Knobby Limb Pad: Using a pencil, mark the location of the activation cord that you found gives the desired amount of guidance and then move the cord out of the way.(the pencil mark can later be wiped off) Next, install the knobby limb pad with the center of the pad in line with the pencil mark. Re-install the activation cord with the the cord crossing through the center groove set of the knobby limb pad. Apply the proper amount of tension to the activation cord and enjoy shooting with your properly timed arrow rest.

how much tension is recommended? just enough to get the rest to stay down at brace height?

i followed recommendations and put my activation cord on my bowtech revolt right where the limb tip ends and the red aluminum deadlock housing begins (the crease between)....and to achieve 50 percent guidance (measured correctly per your instructions), i have to put more tension in the cord than is needed to just keep the rest down at brace

in fact, the amount of tension greatly affects rest timing and i cannot fix in the field and hope to be anywhere close to 50 percent.....i have to check and fix this in a draw board

 

I have shot hamskea and limb driver rests from limbs and yokes and on my prime I tied to the end cap of axle.

All methods give exact same accuracy performance.

 

I think I disagree with the guy above when he talks about the launcher timing.

Regardless of where you hook up the moment you start to draw the rest rises.

Now the limb tip moves farther than the limb if you tied lets say 3 inches from the limb tip so there will be more slack in your cord at full draw if you tie to the end of the limb.

The big thing to remember is that the rest will come to its resting place in the jerk down position at same exact time because the limb tip and the limb tie 3 inches from the end both get to their resting place at same time.

 

if you experiment with this, then you'll find that devinhal is 100 percent correct (he is a tech at hamskea and has helped a lot of us in private messages, etc)

with any given amount of cord tension (keep that steady), the rest will require a certain amount of slack/inches of limb movement at tie off location...to allow the rest to reach fully up

towards the limb tip, then amount of movement is achieved early in the draw cycle and past that the limb keeps moving and introducing a greater amount of slack in the cord as the limb continues towards a full draw position

 

I agree that there can be a flutter or bounce back issue with any drop away or limb driven rest.

So with my hamskea I have the launcher where it dips 1/16 inch below the shelf. The hamskea has a nice adjustment screw for the down and up positions so you can customize your launcher at rest and up position.

 

I've went around and around over the claim of bounce back. Flutter or bounce back is a "no issue" so long as it doesn't effect the arrow. One person gave of the slamming down would eventually move the rest. I got my first drop rest around 2004 and have owned and shot with dozen different brands and models. Not once has flutter/bounce back effected the arrow or shot, nor has bounce back moved my rest.....

I would think the thin blades would flutter, but so far I haven't seen it effect the arrow. I have a .010" blade with backer plate...

Mounted on my ok archery Absolute 38. Whole lot of room under the blade if I was to move it forward. Shoots great just like it is.

 

Now here is the biggest thing I have learned about shooting limb driven.

I do not use the hamskea spring system, my cord it hard wired.

Also, I do not make my cord tight. My cord allows my launcher have a small amount of play at rest so when I fire it doesnt slam down and also this keeps my rest in the up position just a little longer so my arrow is on the arrow a little longer.

 

k