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Discussion Starter #1
Guys, I am haveing trouble getting my blazers to tune broadheads. I am shooting the muzzy max 4. If my form isn't perfect I just don't get much forgiveness. Anyone haveing trouble geting blazers to tune four blade heads.
 

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I have been using the Blazers since they came out and they'll get it done.
I havent heard alot of good about those Muzzys......do you have another BH you can shoot to try out?
There is a list of things to consider...do your arrow/bh's spin perfect?
Draw length not too long? Nocks not too tight? String loop or brass nock?

What are you calling trouble, what exactly is your problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I am getting a lot of kick or fish taleing. They just don't fly straight. Shoots fine with four inch right helical feathers, but I would like to stay away from feathers if possible, I have always shot them, but I would like to shoot those blazers if possible because they are so durable. I shoot a 27inch draw on a Hoyt Ultra Tec at 70pounds with a 26 3/4 inch carbon exspress maxima 350 arrow. Also string loop with zero effect arrow rest.
 

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You should check for clearance problems with the Blazers. Put some lipstick on the Blazers and then shoot them. Check your cables, shelf, riser and rest for lipstick.
If they are fishtailing, something is not right and the Blazers are trying to correct for it. Have you walk-back tuned this bow with field points? Paper tuned?
The Blazers are an excellent vane and I use them exclusively.
 

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conradj2 said:
Well, I am getting a lot of kick or fish taleing. They just don't fly straight. Shoots fine with four inch right helical feathers, but I would like to stay away from feathers if possible, I have always shot them, but I would like to shoot those blazers if possible because they are so durable. I shoot a 27inch draw on a Hoyt Ultra Tec at 70pounds with a 26 3/4 inch carbon exspress maxima 350 arrow. Also string loop with zero effect arrow rest.
If you have moleskin on your hook on the MZE, look for signs of the vane contacting it as it will start to wear on the moleskin. If no moleskin, try the lipstick as Doc said.
I can go over the MZE with you to make sure it is right, but has to be by phone as I cant do it on the net and make it sound right or get my points across. Most people have contact issues with the MZE as it is not setup properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Give me a call or I can give you a call tonight. I think the clearanse may be the issue. When I shot the quick spins I noticed that it wrinkled the vane that touched the left side of the rest, but I can see ware on the other side also.

My cell is 601-479-1066
 

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Blazers while having awesome stabilizing ability are terribly unforgiving with any sort of fletching contact. Being that they are so stiff, they will cause the arrow to fishtail or corkscrew wildly with even very slight contact.
 

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Another thing so many overlook when tuning is the limb bolts. Try playing with the draw weight. The limbs are adjustable, not solidly mounted. And they're already paid for.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Found out last night that it is contact on the rest. I kind of thaught that was what drop aways were for, getting fletch contact out of the question, guess not. Does any one have any suggestions on what is a better drop away than the Drop Zone. I turned the arrow with the cock vane down and the arrow shot perfect.
 

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It sounds like you need to time your rest so that it drops quicker. The rest should reach its top position the last 1.5 inches of your draw cycle. If it reaches the top before this, it is not falling soon enough. Also if you don't get contact with the cock vane in the down position, shoot all your arrows this way, just as long as it is consistent, it doesn't matter. Some guys think the cock vane has to be to the outside...not the case. I shoot mine to the outside on one of my bows and to the top on another.
 

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conradj2 said:
Found out last night that it is contact on the rest. I kind of thaught that was what drop aways were for, getting fletch contact out of the question, guess not. Does any one have any suggestions on what is a better drop away than the Drop Zone. I turned the arrow with the cock vane down and the arrow shot perfect.
Blazers are slightly taller than other vanes and you have to becareful that they don't hit you buss or control cable. I've had the best success shooting them cock vane down or with the cock vane rotated slightly (about a 1/4")towards the cables. One other trick is to make sure that your dropaway cord is positioned correctly. Make sure that end of the cord is pointed away from the bow at a 90 degree angle. If you need more detail on this let me know and I'll send you a pic. I think it also important to try different timing. Most of the time have the rest come to top about an 1.5" before the top will work fine, however I also had very good success with the DZ coming up the last .5" and it seems to put less stress on the control cable which can effect the bow's timing.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am not sure how to get that Muzzy Zero effect to drop quicker with out it affecting the tuneing of the bow. I mean that on those rests you have a plastic clip that you draw the bow with out the arm attached. you mark that spot then thread the arm that attaches to the cable so that it is at full draw at that point.

Any one have any exsperiance with the Muzzy Zero Affect.
 

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conradj2 said:
I am not sure how to get that Muzzy Zero effect to drop quicker with out it affecting the tuneing of the bow. I mean that on those rests you have a plastic clip that you draw the bow with out the arm attached. you mark that spot then thread the arm that attaches to the cable so that it is at full draw at that point.

Any one have any exsperiance with the Muzzy Zero Affect.
I sent you my number and told you to call me.....I can help you but I wont chase you around to do it
 

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conradj2 said:
Any one have any exsperiance with the Muzzy Zero Affect.
Give Jerry/NJ a call...he'll walk you through it. Ask him about his eyebrow trick while you are at it.:wink:
 
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