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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Evo NTN
Drop away, limb driver
Proper spine
Now I dropped rest from dead level. and I advance top cam.
so my timing is now out. Was perfect…

and I still have a high bareshaft….?
How far out of time should I go? How much more do I need to drop rest. I don’t want to drop even at all honestly.
I got good nock fit. No pinch.
Grip seems solid, no left and right impacts.
Bare Shaft hit 2-2.5” high at 20yds
so what’s going on??
 

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Have the same problem on my evoke I lowered rest definitely not 90 but bare shaft and broadheads are money. I didn’t want to advance my cam, but maybe try a turn out on bottom limbs see what happens
 

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I had this problem with my evl 34 se. To get a nock level tune I added a string leech to the bottom half of the string. It fixed a 1.5" nock low tear. I lost 4 fps but I get more range out of my bow shooting it this way instead of dropping my arrow rest to fix the tear.
 

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Evo NTN
Drop away, limb driver
Proper spine
Now I dropped rest from dead level. and I advance top cam.
so my timing is now out. Was perfect…

and I still have a high bareshaft….?
How far out of time should I go? How much more do I need to drop rest. I don’t want to drop even at all honestly.
I got good nock fit. No pinch.
Grip seems solid, no left and right impacts.
Bare Shaft hit 2-2.5” high at 20yds
so what’s going on??
First, I would re-synch the cams and leave that alone...I HATED my EC bows if one cam hit before the other!!!!!

If you don't want to drop the rest, you could raise your nock point. Most every bow I've worked on over the last few years was happiest a little nock high so I don't even start tuning at "Level" through the berger hole.... (I start at 1/16" nock high)
 

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Evo NTN
Drop away, limb driver
Proper spine
Now I dropped rest from dead level. and I advance top cam.
so my timing is now out. Was perfect…

and I still have a high bareshaft….?
How far out of time should I go? How much more do I need to drop rest. I don’t want to drop even at all honestly.
I got good nock fit. No pinch.
Grip seems solid, no left and right impacts.
Bare Shaft hit 2-2.5” high at 20yds
so what’s going on??
Did you lower arrow rest and advance top cam at the same time?
If so then the result of those 2 changes at the same time would be to cancel each others result.
For high bareshaft you could 1) lower the rest OR 2) unadvance top cam (which raises nock point).
But not both at same time.

I'm not a fan of a sloppy back wall; if it were my i would keep the cams in synch and either raise the loop or lower the rest (as suggested by 1/2 Bubble Off).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Did you lower arrow rest and advance top cam at the same time?
If so then the result of those 2 changes at the same time would be to cancel each others result.
For high bareshaft you could 1) lower the rest OR 2) unadvance top cam (which raises nock point).
But not both at same time.

I'm not a fan of a sloppy back wall; if it were my i would keep the cams in synch and either raise the loop or lower the rest (as suggested by 1/2 Bubble Off).
yes I did that.
Last evening I set it back to dead even cam timing. Took the rest back to level.
Bare shaft hits I bet 5” high at 20yds. I moved the rest down just over 1/8” and it’s still a good 2-3” high.
I’m wonder if there isn’t something else going on?
I moved it further down even more and it like it didn’t want to move my bareshaft. And looking at my rest arrow on shelf it was pointed down hill a good bit. I didn’t like that. So I just ran it where it was set and got my bow sighted in. Because of this weekend.
Shooting hamskea target micro. I have it set up and have a good 1/4” under rest to the shelf. Maybe it’s bouncing back up? Could my cord be too tight?
I had to just leave it be as I have a shoot this weekend. I have those bow setup for target/ in bow hunter class.

Could there be something I’m doing?

I see no marks on any vanes or on my wrap on bareshaft. Like I’m getting contact. It’s shooting really good.
but I want to have it GOOD.
Im kinda not sure what to look at or go now. Maybe that rest?
It’s like im not seeing the movement I should when I adjusted the rest.
when I adjusted my left bare shaft. I moved it a small amount and the arrow moved over directly and perfectly.
But vertical, no. Something is going on.
Also arrow is dead center through Berger hole.
 

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When you get time i would try moving your dloop up instead of moving the arrow rest down.
This can make a difference where moving the rest sometimes does not.
 

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I’d suggest putting your cams back in time and adjust the rest down or nock point up a little more, as long as the rest is high enough to adjust left and right without riser interference you’ll be fine to keep lowering it. It’s very common for bows to tune with the nock point higher than the rest. I don’t think I’ve ever had one that tuned with a level arrow.

If you run out of reasonable range then work on the cam timing. The more you take them out of time the more you mess with your valley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wanted to add also that I did change the rest. It was a hamskea hybrid hunter and I got the conversion kit and turned it into the target with the accu guide launcher. What the that does is, lower the angle of the launcher and different arm style.
But I set the bow back up to this new launcher.
I did notice that the launcher tension in the up position is now less than(softer) then tension that was on wide V that come for the hunter model. Maybe it does that when you lower the angle?
Thanks,
Yeah I’m going to try raising the nock point up some. Maybe set it so the bottom of the arrow is through the center of the Berger hole?
 

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Set it even timed. Set arrow running high but level through the berger like you stated above. Bottom of arrow through the center. I’ve had a couple evolve cams tune that way. Like the bottom limbs are slightly stronger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks guys.
when I get back to work on my bow. I will let you know how things show or work out.

Last time I had this setup with Axis and hunting setup. I stripped bow and put new strings on set it up for bow hunter class target bow.
last time I had it set, I put the arrow high through the Berger hole just because of the broadheads I use and it tuned fine other than a left impact. I had moved/shimed cams and everything was good never had any trouble with my ups n downs on the bare shaft..
But I’ll report back on what happens.
 

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There is a few things to check into.

First.
Are both the timing dots on the top and bottom cam in the same spot with the bow not drawn?
If they are, and your draw stops are hitting the cables at the same time when drawn, your cam timing should not needed to be adjusted to fix this.

Think about this.
Its a binary cam.
Starting and stopping in the same orientation on the top and bottom. That should always yield level nock travel.

If that is correct, move to the next thing.

Second.
Is there any imbalance on your cables?
Have you tied your drop away cable to the limb, the cable, the cable splitter, lost a speed button, anything on the cables that might get the weight of one cable to be heavier, thus harder to begin moving (slower) than the other?

Third step.
You have even starting and stopping points on cam rotation.
So, what else could cause one cam to rotate slower than the other?
Is there a pinch on the cam?
Do they rotate freely, without drag?

One quick way to tell if you are having trouble getting one cam to start rotating is drop your let off to its lowest setting and shoot your bareshaft.
Then max out your let off at its highest setting, shoot another bareshaft, and see if they produce the same result.

If the increased holding weight of the lower let off causes the bare shaft to change at all, you have a problem getting your cams to rotate at the same speed.
Even though your cable lengths are correct, and your loop position is correct.
Something is creating a slower start to rotation on one end.

You can not see this on a draw board.

Its something to look into.
 
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