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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I guess it is said that using a hard helical will better stabilize broadheads.With all the concern about fletching contact,dropaways,etc... How would these hard helical fletchings perform wih a launcher style rest like a Bodoodle?I mean the fletching obviously will make contact.How then would it make for better flight when it leaves the bow with that much contact.

These traditional guys shoot right off the shelf with *full* fletching contact and it doesn't bother them a bit. :)
 

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Short answer...you will not have better flight if you have rest contact.

Hard helical will do a much better job of stabalizing your arrow, but it is useless if your arrow leaves the rest all screwey due to fletching contact. Things may settle out farther down range, but short range your arrow may be all over the place.

Hard Helical = Drop Away
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That's what I figured but how does that explain shooting off the shelf with a recurve?
 

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I shoot a 2 degree off set, left wing feather. It clears the launchers on my Bodoodle Bullet. I used a belt sander on the launcher tips. I have the short tips. I took them off, held them with a pliers (man they get hot) and worked them a bit. I get good clearance. Feathers give the best stability for a broadhead, 5" is best.
2 degree off set adds more spin = more stability. 100 % clearance, even better. A well tuned bow, more better.

5"-2 degree off set, left wing feathers, 100% clearance, and a very well tuned bow---------- PRICELESS. Thats what I shoot.
JB
 

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You Need a drop away Witha drop away rest you can shoot 6 inch 4 fletch full helical



TINK
 

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I shoot 2 degree helical on a Mathews "prong type" rest and have no clearance issues with the vanes. Also, these are the "skinny" A/C/C 3-49's! Try 2 degrees, my broadheads fly straight and I know with that bow of yours, they will fly straight too! Good shooting!
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I'm not looking for recommendations for a rest or how to fletch arrows,I'm happy with what I have now.

What I am wondering is .....How much of a difference does helical make when you have contact such as on recurves?
Would it not be just as effective to go with straight fletch in that situation?

(This would also apply to using a launcher type rest I assume)

My BHs are flying just dandy.
I just had this whole notion last night when I shot my first recurve(Black Widow) The guy had hard long helical and I was thinking...."what's the point?"
 

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I don't want to disagree with a guy with as much as experience as Tink, but I'm going to have to.

The days of BIG fletching and lots of it went away when the majority of us quit shooting fingers..and quit shooting off the shelf of a recurve. The big/long fletching was needed to stabilize the arrow quickly because it had so much disturbance when it left the bow. Now, with modern equipment that is tuned properly, it is a simple thing to get a BH to fly straight and true with a three 4' vanes or even less. Hell, once set up properly, you don't usually even need more than 2* of offset on the fletches either.
 

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That's what I figured but how does that explain shooting off the shelf with a recurve?

When you shoot off the shelf on a recurve with fingers, the arrow flexes against the side window at first, then it flexes away from the window and the shelf. As it leaves the bow, is flying about 3/4 of an inch away from the shelf/window and it keeps on flexing, decreasing as gets farther away. This is called "Archers paradox". When shooting off the shelf on a recurve, you arrows have to be correctly spine for that particular bow. The arrow spine is more critical when shooting this way.

Monty53
 

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DOUG

Different stroke I said could shoot what i like from my bow


I like my shots close

I sgot a huge 6 x 6 Bullelk at 4 yards My 4 fletch with TINKS

5 `1/2" Starflight vanes drove the arrow thru elk and he fell in 4 seconds on TV




At clsoe rnage heleicla will strighten the arrow up faster and allows me to shoot Mega headsif I want to from C arbon thiin arrows and they willfly right


Feel free to disagree OK? i am seldom wrong as the record shows

Len Marsh the most well versed guy in archeyr today on bow performance shoowts 6 inc h vanes full heical from, his Darton Bow He owns Macrotech Archery in Glen Burnie MD he has s Degree in engineering and knows his stuff Doug


Why? Ask him



Fallaway rest allow you to shoot what you want and you will nto get crummy flight whena vane or feather-
a prong rest or a Bodoodle noodle




Fire away mate



TINK
 

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Discussion Starter #12
monty53 said:
That's what I figured but how does that explain shooting off the shelf with a recurve?

When you shoot off the shelf on a recurve with fingers, the arrow flexes against the side window at first, then it flexes away from the window and the shelf. As it leaves the bow, is flying about 3/4 of an inch away from the shelf/window and it keeps on flexing, decreasing as gets farther away. This is called "Archers paradox". When shooting off the shelf on a recurve, you arrows have to be correctly spine for that particular bow. The arrow spine is more critical when shooting this way.

Monty53
So could you shoot off the shelf with fingers on a compuond bow and get the same effect?
 

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The shelf on a compound is much wider than that on a recurve. I doubt that even a properly spined arrow would get clear before the fletching hit. This is why many fingers shooters use a flipper type rest.
 

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No, you can not shoot off the shelf of a compound bow because a compound bow's shelf is cut way pass center. Traditional bows are not center cut, the arrow sits to the left, off center, (right hand archer) and it bends as it goes around. On modern recurves and compound bows cut pass center, you have to use a "Plunger" or side plate along with a finger rest (it does not have to be a flipper rest) to get the same results. On all bow manuals, when adjusting for finger shooting, they recomend to set the center of the arrow off to the outside by about 1/8 of an inch. I do not recomend a prong rest for finger shooting.

Monty53
 
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