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Help-- Fletchings striking drop away.

1256 Views 14 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  bowman732000
I'm relatively new to archery but here is my issue-- I have a Parker Legend XP with a 30" draw length (monkey arms) I purchased last winter. I took it in to have the peep adjusted after it was done improperly when purchased. The shop, a local reputable one, noticed some other "issues". They re-served the peep and did some other adjustments as well as upping the poundage from 60 to 70 at my request.
I was shooting it and noticing my groups were BAD! Initially I thought it was lack of practice for 4+ months but then noticed black streaks equidistant on the bottom of two of the fletchings (I shoot cock feather up). The rest is a QAD Ultra Rest Hunter. I checked the adjustment per company instructions and it seems good. Any ideas what would cause this? It didn't happen before and the only difference is poundage and possibly (though I don't know) the nocking point slightly different...
My buddy suggested shooting cock feather down, but how can I tell if it's still making contact as it would likely been on the bottom of the fletching and not as visible???

:confused:
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Drop away, fletch contact= rest not set up and timed properly. Also seeing as how you rasied the poundage up 10# make very sure your arrows are the proper spine now. These are all issues your shop should have caught when you had them work on it.:wink:
 

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i think it's just a timing issue ,even though you think it's properly adjusted a hair off and you could get contact,i had a similar issue with a TR drop zone ,i move the cord a hair and i do mean a hair and the contact problem was gone.
 

· Coram Deo
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I have the same issue with a Ripcord on BOTH of my bows. Arrows are spined correctly for each bow according to OnTarget. Groups are fine, but after numerous shots you can see black streaks on the fletching.

FWIW- don't know if it makes a difference, but I always cock the Ripcord instead of letting it come up on it's own. I guess I should shoot it uncocked, to see if anything changes.
 

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I had the same problem as you. I called qad they had me set the rest so that it comes up in the last 2 inches of draw. This took care of the contact problem for me. I had It set at the last inch and the last 1/2". If that doesn't work try raising your nocking point a little. My bow tuned 3/16" above square (martin bengal). The hunter and proseries models do not have the lockdown feature to prevent bounce back like dale b1suggested. If none of these options work try the tl1 launcher. If you don't have one QAD will send you one free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the input-- I can't adjust the length of the line to the rest-- it's tied in to the string and is burnt at the end to prevent it from coming through the attachment on the rest-- I checked it and it's definitely coming up before last two inches of draw...probably starting up at 5 inches or so....
 

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Its not important when It starts to come up. What you want to look at is when the rest is fully up, and the 2 white lines on the rest are aligned. With mine it works well when the rest is fully up at the last 2" of draw. You can shorten the cord by cutting it and reburning the end or unserve it and reserve it in the cable. Its really easy. Just put the cord through the cable and burn the end then serve above the cord about an inch by tieing a series of half hitches. If you need to make an adjusment you can slide the cord and serving a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I checked what you said-- appears to be fully upright about 2 inches from full draw-- though I just eye-balled it. I shot it a few times after spraying the fletching with foot powder-- next time I'll wait till the stuff dries longer...sure tastes nasty! Still appears to be making contact, though minimal. If I switch to the TL1 would I need to readjust my nocking point? If so it's gonna need to go to the shop-- I don't have any appropriate tools and I'm pretty much clueless as to how to do it....
 

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yes, the tl1 launcher is about an 1/8" taller in the valley. So you can either move the rest down or your nocking point up. Have your nocking point set 1/8" above 90 degrees. this is a good starting point before fine tuning. If your not set at at least 1/8" above 90 now try that before changing to the tl1.
 

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If nothing else works you may need to bite the bullet and get a new pull cord and attach it lower on the down cable. When I talked to QAD they recommend the cord be tied in about level with the bottom of the grip. The lower the cord is, the quicker the rest will react and drop. Also having the rest coming to the hard stop about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from full draw is the ticket. Having the cord tied lower pulls the cord more parallel to the down cable as opposed to having the cord pulling the down cableto the riser.

Here is my write up on the QAD. All instructions came right from the manufacture.

Hope this helps.

http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=565117&highlight=fob+starrflight

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, I definitely am narrowing it down-- the pull cord is attached where you said and length seems just about right....odd thing is after all this checking, tweaking, and measuring the groups seem much better-- problem is all my fletchings are "stained" with where they previously made contact, is there a good/definite way to see if they are making total clearance or are tight groups good enough evidence?
 
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