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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New archer here, needs help with arrows, particularly the fletching.

I purchased a 30# recurve bow recently, my draw length is 29" I bought 6 new arrows to try out. On recommendation of the salesman at the archery shop, I got Easton 2013 arrows cut to 30", 83 grain insert field points, with 4" feather fletching installed to try out. They seem to be shooting fine for me but was wondering what difference I would notice if I went to plastic vanes.

I am shooting off of a wire flipper type rest with a plunger set up if that makes a difference.

I was looking to buy a dozen arrows soon and was wondering the pros and cons of feathers vs. vanes.

Thanks.
 

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GLC, the arrows you have are WAY to stiff for that bow. However, if you can get decent arrow flight with them then great. I would try 1616-1716's with that weight of bow. As for the feathers, they are normally more forgiving than vanes. If you are planning on just shooting target/3D, 3 inch feathers will be all you need. The more feather, the more drag.
 

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Hello NH Guy,

Feathers...Vanes...

Heres the beef....

In a Perfect world, your arrow will bend and noodle around the riser upon release. The arrow will only be on your rest for only a very short time. You cna see this on Slow motion video. Thus...Vanes will "warp" around the riser and be off the rest by the time the feathers reach the riser.

Now...Reality. Some of us ain't living in a perfect world. Thus, sometimes noodling isn't as great as it should be... maybe weight of the bow...spine of the arrow, or something... And the feathers *DO* hit the riser.

By rule of thumb... the feathers will "compress" and cause far less friction when they hit the rest and riser, than any plastic vane.

another rule of thumb... Side with the probability we are not in a perfect world and you will not have to worry about your vanes hitting your rest and riser.

Mine hit.... There are many others out there that hit too.

Dwayne
 

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GLC -

#30 with a 29" arrow = 1716. If your ARROW LENGHT is near 31", then think about 1918s. 2013s spine to about #50. The salesman just read the Easton charts, and they've been overspined since the md 1980's.

BTW - I don't know of any 83 grain field points, if they are one piece numbers, you have target tips or nibbs. Nothing wrong with those, just a different animal.

Shooting off the shelf, as with a longbow, pretty much requires feathers for adequate clearance. On recurves with an arrow rest, vanes are possible, but usually more trouble than they are worth, unless you plan on shooting in very rainy conditions - and I don't.

Viper1 out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, I had no idea what to get so I took the salesman's word on the 2013's. I checked the chart and they are listed there so I thought they were right. I'll look at the lighter arrows.

The points are just one piece inserts, point and all.

Feathers sound like the right way to go. Only shooting targets recreationally and learning right now.

Thanks.
 

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I have switched from vanes to feathers about 3 years ago, and never looked back. I also fletch my own arrows. Here are a few facts about feathers vs vanes:

Feathers are more forgiving to shoot.
Feathers are way lighter than vanes resulting in more speed
A vane will deflect an arrow if it contacts your bow or any object on it's way to your target.
A feather will collapse on contact with an object and pop back and continue steering your arrow on target.

Feathers work for me, but deciding between feathers or vanes is like trying to decide if you like blonds, brunettes, or red heads better!
 

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A good soft vane will cause very little deflection. Feathers can vary in quality I have seen some that are very course and stiff so be selective.As you are shooting button and flipper you should not have too many clearance problems.Feathers from a water fowl will be better as they are naturally water resistant.
 
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