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I am not sure how to attach the string from the dropzone. I am also not sure which cable to put it on. Can someone tell me what I need to do? Pics would also be very helpful.
Thanks
Thanks
Help installing dropzone
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hollowpoint10 (a user here on at) will help you alot if you drop him a pm. he helped me out alot.
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PM sent. 
Drop Zone set up.
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How far down you tie it will depend on your brace height, and the length of your cord.
On my RazorX's mine is about even with the top of the shelf.
I put the cord through the cable, (cable that pulls DOWN) and then either tie a small knot or burn and mushroom the end over....then pull it back (if its too far down, it should slide up when you pull it back)and have someone watch your cable....you dont want it to pull your cable forward more than a hair at full draw....once that is set I serve it in so it wont slide up the cable while shooting.
Also, when you put it through the cable....put it through from the right side (right handed bow) (not the left or dead center) this will assure you dont get any fletch contact with the cord.
These are the only pics I have...the first one I am pulling the cord down with my hand......the second one you can see the cord position at full draw.
If you need anything else, feel free to shoot me a line, Hollowpoint.
Drop Zone set up.
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How far down you tie it will depend on your brace height, and the length of your cord.
On my RazorX's mine is about even with the top of the shelf.
I put the cord through the cable, (cable that pulls DOWN) and then either tie a small knot or burn and mushroom the end over....then pull it back (if its too far down, it should slide up when you pull it back)and have someone watch your cable....you dont want it to pull your cable forward more than a hair at full draw....once that is set I serve it in so it wont slide up the cable while shooting.
Also, when you put it through the cable....put it through from the right side (right handed bow) (not the left or dead center) this will assure you dont get any fletch contact with the cord.
These are the only pics I have...the first one I am pulling the cord down with my hand......the second one you can see the cord position at full draw.
If you need anything else, feel free to shoot me a line, Hollowpoint.
Attachments
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I like to tie mine to the down cable using the same knot as a D-loop. I then serve up about 3/4" above that so that the knot doesn't sllide up the cable.
It allows you to keep the drop away cord pointed in the right direction as (if) the cable stretches or you make adjust ments to it.
It allows you to easily slide the knot up and down the cable to fine tune the drop away timing.
And, it saves the risk of damaging the cable if you screw up trying to poke the drop away cord through it. Particularly if you don't have a press.
It allows you to keep the drop away cord pointed in the right direction as (if) the cable stretches or you make adjust ments to it.
It allows you to easily slide the knot up and down the cable to fine tune the drop away timing.
And, it saves the risk of damaging the cable if you screw up trying to poke the drop away cord through it. Particularly if you don't have a press.
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Doug
I did that at first, but I dont have enough clearence between the cables on my bow, and the knot was hitting my up cable.
Works great if you have the room though.
I did that at first, but I dont have enough clearence between the cables on my bow, and the knot was hitting my up cable.
Works great if you have the room though.
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514 Posts
I like running mine off a cable slide.
Draws smoother, and don't have to worry about it slipping.
Plus you don't have to messup x-coat on WC harnesses.
Get a Bowtech cable slide or NAP has one with a screw down clamp.
Any BT dealer or the nap one from edersbow/cabelas etc.
The bowtech one has a hole in it...pull the cord thru it and simply tie a knot so it can't go back thru the hole..adjust by moving the knots position on the cord(once set, papertuned etc. simply cutoff the excess and burn the tip, or you can do as i did and fold over the extra against the draw cord and lash it to the draw cord with some serving material, so if you ever need to go longer you have it available)
The Nap cable slide is also a good method but the clamp screw is on the same side as the cables...opposite side of the Bowtech slide, and this causes the cord to slide against the riser on the Hoyt tec risers...Best setup for the Hoyts are the Bowtech slide. For most others..either seems to work good.
Time it so that the launcher is all the way down around about 6-8inches before the fletching, any closer and you may have fletching contact...any further and you won't be supporting the arrow long enough thru the shot.
Just my advice...take it or leave it.
Draws smoother, and don't have to worry about it slipping.
Plus you don't have to messup x-coat on WC harnesses.
Get a Bowtech cable slide or NAP has one with a screw down clamp.
Any BT dealer or the nap one from edersbow/cabelas etc.
The bowtech one has a hole in it...pull the cord thru it and simply tie a knot so it can't go back thru the hole..adjust by moving the knots position on the cord(once set, papertuned etc. simply cutoff the excess and burn the tip, or you can do as i did and fold over the extra against the draw cord and lash it to the draw cord with some serving material, so if you ever need to go longer you have it available)
The Nap cable slide is also a good method but the clamp screw is on the same side as the cables...opposite side of the Bowtech slide, and this causes the cord to slide against the riser on the Hoyt tec risers...Best setup for the Hoyts are the Bowtech slide. For most others..either seems to work good.
Time it so that the launcher is all the way down around about 6-8inches before the fletching, any closer and you may have fletching contact...any further and you won't be supporting the arrow long enough thru the shot.
Just my advice...take it or leave it.
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oleg
The arm on mine is not the same as on a normal Drop Zone.....it is bent different for shooting fingers, and will be available after the ATA show in a few weeks.
It works great, better than any other conventional finger rest I have used.
Even with fingers, you dont need controll for the whole length of the shaft....just side pressure upon release.
PM me your e-mail, and I'll send you a close up of the arm on mine.
I'd post it, but it it too big to post.
The arm on mine is not the same as on a normal Drop Zone.....it is bent different for shooting fingers, and will be available after the ATA show in a few weeks.
It works great, better than any other conventional finger rest I have used.
Even with fingers, you dont need controll for the whole length of the shaft....just side pressure upon release.
PM me your e-mail, and I'll send you a close up of the arm on mine.
I'd post it, but it it too big to post.
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