500 spine carbons with 100g bh's seems kinda light to me for hunting, maybe a 400g total weight arrow??? Im thinking you need a 31" 400 spine arrow and a 175g bh. I know thats not perfect but its better than the light arrow

 

y -

Get a lighter bow. It's not going to work, really.

Look through all the other new to "trad" threads and you'll see why.

BTW - not knowing what your draw length is (if you can actually reach full draw) and not knowing the type of "recurve" makes arrow recommendations difficult, if not impossible.

Viper1 out.

 

The only way to know what arrows are appropriate for your bow is through methodical tuning and you can only tune as well as you can shoot. Here's a link...http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

Tuning is done with bare shafts. Once you have the right arrow and point weight, then you buy broadheads.

Matching arrows to a recurve is a combination of bow, form, draw weight at your draw length, arrow length, and point weight. Recurves gain or loose 2#-3# per inch deviation from the length that is marked. If you shoot a 28.5 compound, your draw with the recurve might be anywhere from an inch shorter to an inch longer...only after developing a solid and consistent form will you know. I think most people shooting a recurve of that draw weight are using .340 or .400 arrows. My bow is 54#@28" and I shoot a 31" .340 arrow with 175 grain point. What I use may be totally inappropriate for you though, it's a lot tougher to match arrows to a recurve than a compound. Arrows for a recurve are usually fletched with feathers, not vanes.

I'll be a bit of an ass and say straight up that learning to shoot with a 55# bow and being hunt ready in a couple months is a pretty high bar to clear. Not saying it can't be done, just be aware that fatigue is your enemy and a bow of that draw weight will be tough to shoot for long sessions without getting tired. Several short sessions per day is better than one long one. When it comes time for hunting, make an honest appraisal of your shooting skills and choose your shots accordingly. A 55# bow on a frosty October morning is going to feel a lot heavier than it does shooting on a nice summer evening in the back yard.

 

I noticed you referenced the Blazers as well. Those are extra stiff so if you have any contact with the riser you won't get an accurate reading as to if the spine is matching...get out your bitzy and stick some feathers on there!

 

Certainly short shooting sessions with any bow is more better than putting a couple of hundred shots down range until fatigue sets in.

You can always try a dozen cedar arrows spined for a 55-60# bow, start them long and shorten them 1/4" at a time until they fly right. But I'm not sure if ready-made cedar shafts are any or much cheaper than carbon or aluminum arrows...I only shoot wood arrows (which I make myself) so I'm not sure what the price of other arrows are...I'm just aware of the price of feathers, shafts, nocks and tips!! (and glue)

Tuning arrows might be a problem in general, as even perfect arrows won't fly perfectly if you are not doing everything else right...I'm mean, if you are plucking the string, torquing the bow, or whatever, it can appear that the arrow is at fault when it is not. You will be dealing with a lot of variables at the same time...as Easykeeper stated better than I.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the honest information... quite depressing actually, but much appreciated. I do realize that going from zero to hunt-ready in 2 months is unrealistic, but I am making progress... have already improved form and consistency a great deal. I will definitely limit my range to around 15-18 yds... already shooting fairly consistent groups at that range.. hope to improve much between now and then.

Thank you.

 

Good luck! Come on back if you decide to stick with it.

 

Well it's not like you've never shot a bow before, and I think that hunting skill is more important than skill with the weapon, if one had to make a choice.

If you have the discipline to keep your shots within the range that you can shoot well on the range, and are a good, ethical hunter, then no problem.

 

Agreed

 

Don't be afraid to put a sight on that bow. Should help a bunch in the beginning.

 

Sights are not allowed on this particular hunt. I shot a recurve some in college (almost 30 years ago)... had an old 45# that I could shoot OK back then. In the meantime, compounds have spoiled me just like nail guns have spoiled me for carpentry work. I'm going to try a heavier field point and feathers on my 400 spine carbons and see how that works. I'm thinking a lot of my arrow wobble is due to those blazers contacting the bow. I'll do everything within my power to ensure a clean kill if/when the time comes. That's a big part of this conversation for me.

 

My $.02

First..go to a archery shop around you..and get measured correctly..that way they can measure the poundage of your bow at what you are drawing and set you up with the correct spine and weight tips for that bow..Then practice practice practice..It's nice to try and do things on your own...but take the time and get it done correctly the first time..then you can experiment later..You don't have a whole lot of time to practice till your hunt...and you will need as much practice with the correct arrow as you can get..

Good Luck

Mac

 

I will attest to arrows being very difficult to setup correctly on a recurve without a well stocked pro shop. I like a flat shooting arrow for 3D and it has been a nightmare trying to find the right arrow. I use .500 spine cut to 29" with 125 grain tips on a modern takedown cut past center. My 45lb one piece might as well be shooting wood posts as the same .500 spines fly like poo from that bow. It really is a trial and error thing and thats after you get your draw length and form fairly consistent. Unfortunately compounds rule my pro shop and they do not stock much trad related gear like heavy points or cedar arrows.

 

You must be one of the lucky few to hunt the McAllister Artillery range.... I am in the same situation yokelokie. Just picked up a recurve last week and want to be hunt ready by October. I have no patience and bought 12pck of Carbon Express Heritage 150. I am using 100grn. brass insert as well as a Mugnus broadhead. Fortunately it's worked out really well for me and arrows fly great, but I am shooting a 48# 28"draw with a 60in bow.... Long story short I would deffinately look into the CB Heritage arrows. I've bouncee three off of my house and there still good. Can't say that about the Easton aluminums... Anyway good luck on your hunt!!!

 

Congratulations on drawing McAlister. My dad and I will be there the wk end of October 18-20. Maybe we'll meet you there. We'll be the ones drooling over all the nice bucks coming into camp.

 

If you can't go to a pro shop to get measured and fitted for arrows, here's the most accurate spine chart I've found so far.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf

With a 55# bow I'd go for a .340 - .400 spine, depending on the length and point weight. Easykeeper listed a great site for tuning, but keep in mind it's impossible to tune a bow without consistant form. A 55# bow is going to be tough to do that with. If your friend has a lighter weight bow, that would be the way to go!

 

(1) Don't hesitate to call the 3Rivers tech line: they'll ask all the right questions, extract all the answers, and set you up.

(2) Check the game regs book for the state you're hunting in: most states have some sort of minimum requirement for hunting bows, and the minimum draw weights can vary pretty wildly. For instance, my home state (NV) doesn't even post a minimum draw weight; it's defined by the bow's ability to cast a given arrow a given distance.

Good luck!

 

Just for a reference (my draw length may be longer) but I have a similar set up and the following works great: Axis 340 32" with 175 gr heads ( about 31" draw)