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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 2011 Strother Infinity (right handed) a few weeks ago and love the bow. My setup: Infinity 29/70, QAD Ultra, Carbon Express 350's.
Problem is that I can't get my broadheads to tune. I paper tuned and got a 1" left tear. I moved my rest (QAD Ultra) to the right until my centershot was waaaay off and I still couldn't get rid of the tear. I then french tuned and walk-back tuned and needed to move the rest back to the left and now have field points grouping awesome from zero to fifty yards. I then threw on my Magnus stinger 100's and at twenty yards they were hitting 6" left and 2" low. I moved my rest at to the right in 1/16" increments until the arrow was pointed waaaay to the right while in the rest and though it did move the point of impact closer to the field points, it is definately not right. Archery season starts Saturday so I got nervous and went and bought some Rage 2 blades thinking that at least they would fly like my field points and therefore I'd be good to go. Well, the Rage's hit 4" left and 2" low at twenty yards. I moved my rest to the right and closed the gap between the point of impact for the bh/fp but still have obvious issues as the arrow on the rest is pointing considerably right of center. I hope I'm just doing something wrong in my tuning. I have 6 days before season. Please HELP.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm sorry for not being clear. My field point is left, so its a nock right tear. I haven't twisted the yoke yet. I don't have access to a press. I do need a press for that right? Thanks for the help.
 

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Yes, you do need a press for this. I recently had similar issues with not being able to get rid of a tear when paper tuning. I had a left tear (nock left), and was told that adding a twist in the left yolk and removing one from the right would help solve the issue. It worked! So for you having a right tear (nock right), I would add a twist to the right yolk, and remove a twist from the left.

Leigh.
 

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I have had the exact problem for the last 2 weeks. I shot a reflex Highlander that was set at 29/63 with QAD hunter. Had new strings and cables put on but could not get it paper tuned. I could shot FPs out to 40yds with 1" groups but BH would be 4" left. Kept going back to paper tuning. My knock and center shot where squared perfectly to my bow but I kept getting left tear. I read somewhere on here to adjust my draw weight back out to 70lbs. My first 2 shots where bullet holes. Knocked a broadhead and at 20yds hit center, chased it with a FP and hit the same spot. Going to check 30 and 40 yds tomorrow , but I think my problem has been fixed. Might work for you too.
 

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You threw your tune of the rest and the bow completely out for a broadhead? I see people do this all the time. People that get fixed broadheads and field points to shoot the same is more luck that anything. 90% of the people never will get them to do that. Your moving everything around but the correct thing------your sight. I never understood why a person would take a perfectly shooting bow and throw it all out of wack for a broadhead. MOVE THE SIGHT that is a simple thing to do. Never understood why people think a field point and a fixed broadhead will fly the same----aerodynamically they are totally different.
I would never throw a perfectly good shooting bow set up out just because of a broadhead----move the sight.
 

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Your arrow may be just a tad weak spined, drop your poundage back a few turns and see if the gap between your FP and BH closes up. If so you may decide to just stay with a little lower DW or you will then know to try a stiffer spined arrow. Before doing this, french tune your centershot back.

Dale B1 tends to get a little irritated at those of us who get lucky shooting our BH and FP to same POI, but I, for one, seem to get lucky a lot because I own 3 hunting rigs that all do.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dale B1, thanks for the input. I see where your coming from. It would seem that by chasing the field points I would throw everything out of wack. I was shootin 3" groups with fp's at 50 yards. I really dont want to lose that kind of accuracy. At the same time, I don't want to shoot this $120 Block target with broadheads. Thats why I want them both to hit the same spot.

BadgerT, I'm sorry for not being clear. I have a nock right, point left tear. So I think the arrow is actually acting too stiff instead of too weakly spined? I'm gonna try to paper tune with a bare shaft and if that doesnt work I'm gonna put a 125grn field point on and paper tune. If my arrow is too stiff the added 25 grains should make the arrow act a little more weaker-spined and therefore help with the nock right tear. Right? Thanks for the help.
 

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Are you right handed or left handed? The majority of time when guys have BH issues, the real issue is arrow spine. If you are RH and your BH arrow is flying left, your spine is stiff (opposite for a lefty=weak). If you have a heavier point, try one of them and it is likely your arrow will impact closer to the aiming point. Or you can strip the fletching off one shaft and try bare shaft tuning, which I have been doing since the late 1970's. My guess is that your bare shaft will similarly fly left and low, indicating a stiff spine and the need to raise the rest just a tad )or lower your nock point. It is easy to get over-confident in a setup shooting only fieldpoint arrows, which are the most forgiving possible setup.
 

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You threw your tune of the rest and the bow completely out for a broadhead? I see people do this all the time. People that get fixed broadheads and field points to shoot the same is more luck that anything. 90% of the people never will get them to do that. Your moving everything around but the correct thing------your sight. I never understood why a person would take a perfectly shooting bow and throw it all out of wack for a broadhead. MOVE THE SIGHT that is a simple thing to do. Never understood why people think a field point and a fixed broadhead will fly the same----aerodynamically they are totally different.
I would never throw a perfectly good shooting bow set up out just because of a broadhead----move the sight.
The folks at easton, the ones who write the "easton tuning guide" completely disagree with you dale.
For the op, yoke, grip, spine. One of those. Your bow isnt shooting "perfectly fine" with a 1" tear.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Alaska at heart, I'm right handed. You were saying that raising rest or lowereing nock would help? That won't help a horizontal tear will it? Even so, if I raise my rest I have clearance issues with my vanes. Same problem with lowering nock. I'm using a QAD Ultra and have it set just over 1/8" nock high (recommended by QAD). If I lower nock, my vane hits.
So I paper tuned with a bare shaft and the existing 100grn point. Still getting nock-right tear. Couldn't adjust it away. I then put a 125grn point on and there was no change in tear. I then French tuned. When I backed up to 15 yards my arrows all hit 4" left and entered the target with the nock-end about 4" right of the FP. I moved my rest in 1/16" increments to the right and continued shooting. this brought the POI closer to center-line but the arrow continued to enter target at an angle with the nock-end 4" right of FP. Thanks for the help. Please keep it coming!!
 

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When bare shaft tuning, forget the paper and shoot it at your target like a fletched arrow. In bare shaft tuning, you are seeing how the shaft is actually flying without the correction that vanes give to a fletched arrow. Shoot 2-3 fletched arrows and then the bare shaft, either inside or in calm outdoor conditions because wind will exagerate the effects of the bare shaft spine error. As an example, we put a new Ripcord on my hunting bow this past Thursday and got it shooting well in short order. I took a bare shaft along that was correct in spine, but I wanted to confirm the rest setup. My fletched arrows were flying perfectly at 20 yards, but my bare shaft was about 5" high. So we dropped the Ripcord one hash mark and the next shot with the bare shaft was right in the X. We could have also raised the D-loop, but that is a lot more work than dropping the rest.

Moving your rest simply changes the impact point of an improperly spined arrow. That is a bandaid fix to the issue. The fact that the nock is right of the point indicates the shaft is coming off your bow too stiff and is planing to the left with the nock end never correcting due to the lack of fletching. A bare shaft and a broadhead fly almost identically, so what your bare shaft is doing you can anticipate your BH will similarly reveal. If 25gr of point weight didn't make much difference, you are significantly stiff. Do you have access to any longer shafts of the same spine? A longer shaft weakens dynamic spine, while a shorter shaft stiffens dynamic spine. So the very same arrow will fly differently if cut an inch shorter or longer.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Alaska. After going through everything else, all that seemed to be left was my arrow spine being too stiff. This confused me a bit due to the CX charts showing my setup being right in the middle for the 350 shafts, if anything the shafts may be a bit on the weak side according to their chart. Does this sort of thing occur with different cam types? By that I mean do sometimes arrow spine for a certain bow differ from the accepted norms of arrow manufacturers?
So I went out this afternoon and bought some Easton FMJ 400's. They're weaker-spined and I was wanting to get some after lack of pass through on 2 deer last year.
One question. Is there any way that timing being off could cause a left tear that wouldn't tune away? Thanks again.
 

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Sent pm. Give me a shout back and we'll run your setup through OT2 and see if spine is your issue, if it's not we can look elsewhere to get you fixed up.
 
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