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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a brand new VXR 28" off ebay and started tuning it today; have some weird things going on and i'm looking for some insight.



Background info-- Bow has B mods which are 29.5" draw, 70 lbs and 85% letoff



I'm setting up the bow and I go to draw it and it seems very aggressive, little to no valley and touchey on the back wall.

I started taking measurements to make sure everything is in spec and it looks good. 28" ATA, 6" Brace height, tillers are both 12" which is right..

I take it to my draw scale and it's pulling 72 Lbs peak, 14.2 hold; Imo a little off 85% let off so I decide to tinker with twisting cables untwisting string..

I got the bow down to 12.9lbs holding (closer to 85%) but my peak is now 74.5lbs which is considerably higher than what it's supposed to be. Took new measurements, still 28" ATA, 6" brace, tiller is 12".

Draw the bow back again after i've adjusted the holding weight and it still feels just off..

I brought it to my draw board and it's measuring 28.8 inches draw length; considerably under the 29.5 that the mods are..


Not sure what to do at this point. Typically when you twist cables and untwist the string you're increasing your draw length.. But you're also increasing your peak weight, and my peak weight is already nearly 5 lbs over spec.


I've double checked to make sure my mods are correct and installed in the proper orientation and it look spot on.

Any recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What I've been reading up is the draw mods are measured and sold on "AMO" draw length. Which is basically your draw length +1.75". It's the distance from your nocking point to the front of your arrow shelf, not the most recessed area of your grip.

The draw length isn't so much of an issue, it's mainly the bow felt like there is no valley whatsoever. Just a gradual, steady peak then eventually a very small transition to your hold weight. I'm talking the distance between on your draw stops vs back into your draw is maybe 1/4" movement.

May just be me transitioning to this bow as my last bow was the Mathews tactic and there was a much greater pronounced valley.
 

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Let’s say you are used to shooting a 29.5” Hoyt/PSE/Etc. If you buy a 29.5” VXR, it should be dang close to 29.5”, maybe a touch longer, when all of your specs are correct. Or should I say you should be able to find a very good balance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
"So, if you purchase a bow and the box says the draw length is 29-inches...this is the AMO/ATA draw length. So, if you put the bow on a draw board,
and measure from the pivot point (deepest part of the curve on the grip) and measure to the center serving between the d-loop knots, YOU SHOULD get a tape measure reading of 27.25-inches."


This is from nuts&bolts on a previous post.
 

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^^^Yes, that’s correct! Were you measuring your DL differently?

27.25” + 1.75” = 29”

On your particular bow, you should be getting 27.75” from the throat of the grip to your nock point on your string. Some Mathews run a touch long; however, it seems to be slowly going away with the VXR’s from what I’m reading on here. In years past, their flagships have been close to a 1/2” long at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Using AMO my bow is at 30". It's about 28.25" to throat of grip. Which is correct with running .5 inch long. Actually works out well because my draw is closer to 30"

Looks like everything is squared away now. Valley will take some getting used to but looks good!

Appreciate your input!
 

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First off the bow does have an agressive draw cycle and a very short valley. The higher the poundage range the more aggressive the draw cycle gets. Draw length is only a number to get you in the ball park with ANY bow. From that ball park you adjust the bow to the person. Each bow draws differently. Lastly you mentioned all these points you checked. First off axle to axle and brace are not never will be exact measurement. Tiller really isn't used much any more. What you failed to mention was timing of the cams, that is all i important.
Just a small clarification, buying off the internet, you bought a used Mathews not a new Mathews.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With that logic, every bow is used, as people test them in pro shops. Buying this "used" bow online I can tell you it had much less use than the "new" bow I purchased at my pro shop a year ago. Original box and wrapped, never had a peep or sight installed, zero string wear; all of which were not the case from my pro shop.

Tiller measurement was to show I tighted my limb bolts to the same extent. Timing is spot on; there was never an issue with draw stops hitting at the same time.

Just to let you know; every dealer places their orders online. Those bows are also shot at the manufacturing plant before they're shipped; they must be used as well. With this mentality every bow made is sold "used".
 

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Not trying to start a $h1t show here but if you bought it anywhere but a dealer in a store and had the dealer register your warranty... you bought it used. It might be gray market from a dealer/ employee who needed cash, bought it at cost from Mathews and sold it online, it might be never shot, only owned by an old lady in tennis shoes who only drove it to Church on Sundays... But it's used.

Does this matter how the bow performs, looks, value or it's longevity? absolutely not. Its your bow, I hope you can iron out what you've got going on now and make it shine in your hands. I'm still waiting on my VXR, but I've heard on here that the draw cycle really lightens up if you put it at or just slightly below the target Mod weight. So your 70# bow at 69.5 should feel alot better than the same setup cranked up to 72. I'll look for the thread where the guy messed with strings/ cables and found that 2# over was a bear, but right on/ just below was "comfortable" I think it was in the Mathews brand forum.

Does it matter to Mathews warranty department which is known to be stellar (can still get any part for any bow they ever made) YES if they consider you not the first owner for whatever reason, then you don't have a warranty. if something blows up you should expect to pay to get anything from Mathews, or be out the cost of the bow...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The seller I bought it from was a dealer, I also do have a registered warranty. Just because it's purchased online doesn't mean it's used.

The bow is shooting perfect now. Draw cycle takes some adjusting to get used to, but the bow shoots very good.
 

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Mathews will not honor internet sales under there warranty !
OH Yes they will. Podium Archery sells on Ebay regularly, and a lot of them. And Mathews honors their warranties. When you sell as many as they do, you really don't have any choice but to stand with them. (Podium Archery/Spokane Valley Archery)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Guys, my product has already been registered online and approved. Although the item was purchased through ebay it was sold by a registered dealer. Technically it should void warranty; this may depend how the shop you purchase the bow online runs transaction through on their end.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Picking my 31.5 up tomorrow. Keeping this handy for set up at the shop.
That's exactly how I set my bow up and I didn't even need to paper tune it (I usually always bareshaft and paper tune).


Set my nocking point exactly halfway on string between both cams. For me it was about 14.25", Threw my rest on so my arrow is going directly through center bergerhole, Set up perfect centershot with my arrow shaft going directly between my limbs (Took measurements and it came out to 13/16 exact). Moved my sight so my rest, arrow and sight pin are in near perfect alignment.

Stepped back to about 30 yards and it's hitting 2 inch groups exactly where I'm aiming.

Very stable of a bow. Quickest tuning i've done. Keep in mind the mods seem to run 1/2" long. My 29.5" is spot on 30" (Granted I could probably come down 1/4" from taking twists out of my cables/ putting twists in string").
 
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