So if you still haven’t caught your arrow sighting in at 20 yards

and you have to move your wheel even though you bottom the housing

I assuming you are following your arrow which means it’s still hitting low and if that’s the case then you have a severely high anchor/low peep

If that black gold sight is on your bow to the housing is also low on it which tell me you have a low peep

 

How much did you have to move the wheel to get 20 sighted in? On the uv3 the 30 pin doesnt move so you will have to move the top pin down anyway. Maybe get 20-30-40 sighted in with the pins first then try going for the sight tape to rule that out?

 

Another thing to note is youre the indicator will point to 40 yards since the bottom pin will be your floater. You may be putting the cart before the horse trying to get the 20 on the dead stop when it should be 40 and 20-30-40 should be sighted in before as well.

Step one would be sight in 30 yards perfectly with the wheel and then lock it down. Dont worry about where the indicator is pointing just yet its irreverent at this point.
2 is sight in 20 and 40 pins in the scope.
3 now that 20 yard pin is sighted in in relation to the 30 pin, set the indicator to zero on the reference scale without moving the wheel. Using top pin shoot 20 and dial it back to 60 yards to get your number.
4 now that 20-30-40 are good and you have your sight tape you can bring the sight all the way up to the dead stop, lock the wheel up.
5 at this point you start worrying about your initial concern. Get the bottom pin sighted in at 40 by loosening the two screws and sliding the bracket up or down.
6 and final step its to put you sight tape on and get the indicator to point to 40 yards and youre done.

20-30-40 pins are good to go and past 40 you dial it in with the wheel.

 

Thank you for the step by step instructions...that made sense in my head after I read it. I have had family in visting and finally got an opportunity this afternoon to mess with it. I got to the step of getting my sight tape on before it got dark. I'll finish up tomorrow without any issues hopefully.

 

The reason you have to dial it down is your peep is set too low to get a zero and the way the bridgelock is design it raises the bar up compared to mounting it in the standard fashion. It's not going to be a big deal unless you run out of adjustment prior to getting fletching contact. Notice how the bridgelock rail sits above center between the two standard mounting holes? This means your sight will have to be adjusted lower than it would normally would for your 20 yard mark. It's really just the nature of hte beast. I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it and just sight it in. You just won't have a home "stop" at your 20 yard position which is not a big deal. I haven't run one on my Spot Hoggs ever, and they didn't even offer a home stop position on their fast eddie sights until about 3 years ago.

 

I gotcha, so just how it is with the bridgelock setup. I won't worry about it if everything turns out to be fine when I finish the setup tomorrow. I'll report back and let yall know how it turns out.

 

It's simply the bridgelock location as stated above. Same thing with my V3X when owned it and I had the same sight mounted. It wasn't optimal not being able to set my dead stop at 20, but it wasn't that big of an issue. I really wish Mathews had addressed this with the Lift series.

 

Thanks everyone for the help. I just finished up the sight in and just barely had enough room to adjust the bracket all the way down to sight in the 40. So dead stop is set at 20 and I can get out to 94yrds before fletching contact. Also, I built this target stand to keep my bag off the ground and out of the weather slightly.

 

Not sure what method you used, but I have had a few HHA sight in towards the bottom of the rail like that. I would’ve:

Roll sight to top of adjustment, lock it down, don’t touch it until doing sight tape. Sight in the middle pin (fixed pin in the UV3 SE) at 30 yards by moving the scope housing up/down on rail. Then sighted in the 20 yard pin (top pin) by using individual pin adjustment on the UV3. Then sight in 40 yards (bottom pin) using individual pin adjustments on UV3. Now your 20/30/40 are set. Use your 20 yd pin to shoot 20/60 and establish sight tape. Now put that sight tape on with your indicator mark on 40. Your bottom pin is your floater now.

Maybe that’s what the other dude said but reading his instructions confused the hell out of me. Glad you got it figured out.

 

That's exactly what I did and it worked perfect. Side note, I just barely missed your Tetra Max Tournament sight you sold a few weeks back lol

 

No worries. Did you have a solution to get over 100yd tapes other than making your own marks on existing tapes. I have the Archers Advantage program, but it aparently doesn't work for the wheel tapes. Its a tough life being a Razorback fan, but I'm one for life lol...I'm out of North Central AR we moved from Mena a couple of years ago. I'm hoping to get back to that side of the state in a few more years.

 

If you have a tape that is working for you, then just pull it off, measure the 20-60 gap with a micrometer, and then have AA make you a sight tape that matches that measurement. Is that possible?

 

Hmm, might have to try that if I increase poundage or lighter weight arrow to get past 94yrds before fletching contact.

 

I just got done setting up my ryz x3 with a uv 3pin. I am pretty bummed that I can't set my 20-30-40 zero on the dead stop. I wish hha gave about 3 more lines of adjustment going down on the infinite adjust rail. It works and I still have more travel than I can use but I do like just running up to 20 not having to look like I do on my 2 pin setups. I think this could be solved with a different infinplate that offsets the sight up or down.

Honestly the dead stop was one of the biggest factors for me going this route vs a UV slider.

 

I have mine halfway out of the mount, but it still secures just fine. I find it odd that it wasn't designed to be slightly more centered.

 

 

I ran mine out a little ways but not that far. Maybe I will have to give it a try.