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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does anyone know or have any advice on balancing bow mass weight and holding weight to better achieve aiming stability. I have my RH pse phenom 28" 50lb with 10oz on a 23" front rod with 8.75oz hung off of the left side. I've tried different amounts of weight from none to what I have now. With no weight it is crazy wobbly and with all the weight it is steadier but not as steady as I had on other bows. Any suggestions thanks
 

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Just for grins,try 8oz.in front and 25 oz.in back.
That would be a much more "normal"setup.
 

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(aka lug nut)
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Does anyone know or have any advice on balancing bow mass weight and holding weight to better achieve aiming stability. I have my RH pse phenom 28" 50lb with 10oz on a 23" front rod with 8.75oz hung off of the left side. I've tried different amounts of weight from none to what I have now. With no weight it is crazy wobbly and with all the weight it is steadier but not as steady as I had on other bows. Any suggestions thanks
It requires experimentation....
but,
with some expert help,
the experimentation process can be speeded up.
 

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I usually like about 3 times as much weight on the side as the front. For example, right now I have 7 oz on a 30" front and 22 oz on a 15" side on my Prime One. And pretty much every target bow ive owned has ended up with the same ration once I got it perfect. Try adding more weight to your side bar and dont forget that angle of your side bar is important as well.
 

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P#NW045
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You need to tune dl according to your sight picture- just adding weight/taking weight away won't get you where you want to be. With short bar lengths your won't get as steady a hold as with different rigs and different bars
 

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I shoot a similar bar setup on my phenom right now and I've got 5-6oz on the front and around 16oz on the side and it works for me pretty good. not quite perfect but its a good starting point
 

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The Fin,Mathews Pro Staff
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Dead center pro balancer
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And how do you tune to your sight picture ? Most people I see with heavy rear weight and lower front weights have the front bar kick when shot is released
 

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Ask Nuts & Bolts for help & pay attention.
 

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P#NW045
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Dl changes, bar position and weight changes, sync/timing changes, tiller changes, peep height and form all influence your hold pattern. When everything is correct, the dot just sits. To get it to just sit, you need to listen to your float and make the needed changes especially to DL and form.

Slow and sweeping; dl is long OR mass weight is too high for the holding weight(high letoff rigs get this issue ALL the time); fast and jerky dl is short. Watch your sight picture, listen to what it tells you
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Good info thanks if nuts and bolts would give more insight that would be awesome and I would greatly appreciate it a lot now George ryals wrote an article about stabilizers and balance but if all you do is offset your front weight with rear weight how do you account for bow geometry most people have been saying more rear weight but I've seen guys with less front and more rear weight get a big kick up from the front bar upon release don't you want the bow to just drive at the target or am I just clueless
 

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Tagged. I have a pretty good friend that said to me, "when you see a lot of front bar weight they are usually a command shooter." To this I replied, "You're calling Reo Wilde a command shooter now?" But I have noticed people that run a lot of front weight really do tend to be command shooters. I will say that it really doesn't matter if your bow balances in your hand perfectly at brace, its all about what it does at full draw. I personally think you have too much weight up front right now, try a 4-1 ratio. Seriously put 3oz up front and 12oz out back and see how it does. Also changing bar angle and weight all the time won't make it any better, you have to shoot it and get your muscles accustomed to the changes. You can't magically put weights here and there and have the bars instantly make you hold rock solid, everything effects everything. Holding weight, DL, form are all critical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok I'm open to anything how long would you say before you become accustomed to a new configuration
 

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P#NW045
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Its as much a command shooter as an aggressive shooter; the added back half pressure requires more front half pressure to keep the dot in the middle and the added weight kills lots of movement in the elements and allows for other things as wel... 1:4, 1:3, 1:1 2:1 it's all just guesses as to the starting point. 1:3 and 1:4 aren't the best starting points for most rigs- too much back weight leads to a softer shot and the low front weights cause issues themselves and slow down the shot process.

I haven't talked bars with griv in a while, but he's who I worked with for tuning dl the first time I went through the process. I know his article talked bout the three axes that you need to level and pay attention to... And thats about it; Griv and I setup and run bars a bit different
 

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What sorts of issues are caused by low front weights out of curiosity...

I would say shoot the bar setups for a week or 2 and shoot score, keep records and write down everything before changing anything so if scores go down you can put it back the way it was.
 

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P#NW045
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Keep all your targets and track groups as well.

The low front weights don't settle as fast and don't stay settled through the shot; not enough weight to overcome the added forces during the shot in pressure situations, or in inclement weather. They also lead to a softer more passive shot, as you expand and push through the shot the dot drifts out of the middle from the added pressure between the halves. It also leads to a non ideal reaction at the shot and the overall setup is to easily influenced. You also can't use the mass weight to aid in popping the release on shots that hang up(not that you should do this...)
 
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