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Discussion Starter #1
i have a hoyt dynatec zr200 limbs cam 1/2. it's a 70lb bow,but i have it set at 63lbs. i have been having some trouble shooting this bow. when i got it the draw was pretty smooth.not it is kinda hard to draw back. i checked everything on the bow and here is what i got.

A toA =34 1/2, brace hgt =7 6/8

the factory spec are, atoA= 34 1/4 brace hgt =7 5/8...
is this enough to cause problems? the reason i ask is, i checked the speed and i was getting 255 fps with a 397 gr arrow. the bow still has factory strings and i know thats probably why it's not faster. the arrow flies great out of the bow. but i can't get groups i even tried another arrow that is 415 gr same problem they won't group and i lost alot of speed with just 18grains more. anyone got any sugestions?
 

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Hoyt factory strings are notorious for strtching. Just get the string and cables back in spec and make sure your cams are in sync
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks everyone. i'm just glad i have a back up hunting bow.lol
i will work on it and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks guys for the help. i tried and i pretty much got the bow way out of wack now.lol. man this cam 1/2 is tougher then the older two cam bows.i'll have to take it to a pro shop or find someone who knows what they are doing.lol.
 

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Just a little info you guys need to understand about the Hoyt Strings/Fuse Strings, its not the string material that is the problem it is the way they are being made for they are making them for quanity not quality. And as far as your bow goes look at the top of the page here in the tuning section and there is a thead by Javi about tuning the cam 1/2 and even shows pics and explains everything step by step and very easy to follow.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks ron. i printed javi's info out before i started. i may try again later to tune this bow. i may have been trying to hard. i don't have a draw stop board. and this is my first cam&1/2 bow so i know i have alot to learn.
 

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Just take your time, it's the best way to learn and to make sure you do not have to back up. And after you do it you are gonna say to your self man that was really not that bad at all but kind of easy. Can you answer me a little question and maybe I can help you. When you draw your bow and when I say draw it I mean very slowly and in the process pay special attention to which cam lobe touches the cable first, top or bottom. So you are gonna have to watch the side where the cam lobe is located.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the bow is hard to draw even at 63lbs. but to answer your question,the bottom cam hits the draw stop first. the bus cable is center of the two timing lines on the bottom cam.

the control cable is out side the lines on the top cam and doesn't lay flat in the groove of the top cam.

i have to bow maxed out and i untwisted the string so i know it's not messing with the buss cable or the control cable.
 

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talonwolf37 said:
the bow is hard to draw even at 63lbs. but to answer your question,the bottom cam hits the draw stop first. the bus cable is center of the two timing lines on the bottom cam.

the control cable is out side the lines on the top cam and doesn't lay flat in the groove of the top cam.

i have to bow maxed out and i untwisted the string so i know it's not messing with the buss cable or the control cable.
For starters has your bow always felt like it was hard to draw or just now after you twisted the cables? Becouse twisting the cables makes the draw longer.
Second if the bottom cam is hitting the cable first there is 2 easy ways of fixing that so they are the same. You can subtract a few twist from the cable hooked to the TOP cam, this will lengthen it to match the cable hooked to the bottom cable. Do that method if the cable hooked to the top cam is the one you twisted the most earlier, if not then add a few twist to the bottom cable to shorten it to match the cable hooked to the top cam, then check you progress. Only do a few twist at a time becouse a few twist can go along way. If there is alot of distance say 1/4 to 3/8th distance before the cam lobe touchs then twist about 5 times then check it. And as far as lines on the lobes they are just a place for you to shoot for in getting the bow back into a shootable condition. I have to leave for the day so I will check back with you tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks ron, the bow was realy easy to draw when i got it. i could pull 66lbs and it felt just like my other bows set at 63lbs.
 

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well did you get it shootable yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i have the cams in sync and the draw stop in time.
when i twist the string to get the draw length right will the effect anything i have already done?
 

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talonwolf37 said:
i have the cams in sync and the draw stop in time.
when i twist the string to get the draw length right will the effect anything i have already done?
it could affect the arrow knocking point and peep if you use one but not by much if it does
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ron,thank you very much for your help. this will be much easier to do next time. i won't mind moving the peep or the d loop at all.
 

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Well good, so now go out there and shoot a big one.:wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
this is the best this bow has ever shot..i am one happy bowhunter..
this was only at 10 yards,but before i could never get three arrows this close at any yardage.
 

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That is a really nice grouping there, I am glad that I was able to help you out and that you are finally getting some enjoyment out of shooting your bow now, it's a great feeling ain't it.?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
i went out to the local range to see what it was doing at longer yardage.
this is at 20 yards. i'm pretty happy with this kind of group.
 
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