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I’m maxed out at about 80 yards before my arrow will hit my scope. Without shooting a faster arrow( I’m already at 340gr and down want to be any lighter) also I’m maxed out at 60lbs, 27”draw , Mathews halon x shooting about 270fps. I’m wondering can I adjust my peep (up or down?) maybe lower in the berger hole and adjust dloop. Any suggestions to squeeze a bit more distance. Also shooting an av31 scope with Axcel achieve 6” bar
 

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Adjusting peep up the string will give you more range, but you will obviously have to adjust your anchor accordingly.

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i would suggest removing the peep, alot of guys that shoot out to 100 plus have no peep and use a knock point for a kisser button,
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i would suggest removing the peep, alot of guys that shoot out to 100 plus have no peep and use a knock point for a kisser button,
I don’t trust myself to shoot consistently without a peep. Not sure that’s the answer for me.
 

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Adjusting peep up the string will give you more range, but you will obviously have to adjust your anchor accordingly.
^^^ This. If you move the peep up in your string, you will have to raise your scope to have the same POI, and raising the scope obviously gives more clearance between the arrow and scope housing.
Lowering the rest (and nock point) relative to the peep has a similar affect.
Other alternatives are moving the sight closer to the riser, rotating the fletch (if the rest allows) or using lower profile fletchings, or using a smaller scope housing.
 

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So, to sound like someone else out here..... Can you post a pic you at full draw holding the bow level?

I feel dirty for asking that......
 

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Curious as to how this would help?
Moving the sights closer to the riser has the relative effect of widening your pin gaps. So in order to keep POI the same, you would have to move your pins closer together thus allowing for a little longer shot off your bottom pin.
 

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Moving the sights closer to the riser has the relative effect of widening your pin gaps. So in order to keep POI the same, you would have to move your pins closer together thus allowing for a little longer shot off your bottom pin.
It is about pin gaps...the closer to the eye the tighter the pins get together so you can fit more pins (more distance) into the same housing.
 

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I recently fixed a problem for a friend who had bottomed out his sight. Moved the nocking point, rest and peep up which made him raise the sight enough to allow for adjusting for low groups.
 

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higher poundage? - experimental arm lengthening surgery... im in the same boat maxed out 60# bow 26.5 draw length... hope you get to the range you want
 

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I shoot Field so needed to reach at least 80 yds & did it with lower peep (didn't take much). I shoot a 60# Daton Ex Vegas, 29" 1913 aluminum (395 grns with 125 gr tip). No Idea on speed. I shoot BH class but still have room to get over 100 yds if I wanted.
 

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I was in the same boat last year. Yes, you can move your sight closer to the riser. This will gain you some yardage. Moving mine 2" farther in gained me about 10 yards worth of movement.

I have not seen anyone just remove their peep for distance shooting. The guys that shoot long ranges, such as 200 plus, will add a second peep, but not remove it.

For 100 to 150 yards, you may want to consider just changing your anchor point. My question to you, is what is the distance between your peep, and your arrow at full draw? I went from from 3.25" last year, and after working with a coach, he worked on my anchor point with a new bow, and now I am at 3.75" My wife is 3.50" and she will be able to shoot field target (out to 80 yards) rounds with her 40 pound, 25" Pro Defiant this year. (Most adult males that I know of are at about 3.75" to 4")

I am reading some other post here. Lowering your peep sight is going the wrong direction. (I think ahunter55 meant he moved his anchor down, peep sight up) Moving your nock point really is defeating the whole purpose of ever tuning a bow to begin with.

It is all in the anchor point. Watch the olympic recurve shooters. They anchor under the chin/ jaw. I went from an anchor that was too high to begin with. When you adjust your anchor, this will naturally move your peep sight up. Look at ahunter55 in his photos. His anchor is under his jaw. Mine is the space between my index, and middle knuckle, right on my jaw.

I am currently shooting a Hoyt Prevail at 27.5", and 55 pounds. I will have no issues moving my Axcel AV-41 scope down to 100 yards this summer. I will be shooting about a 320 grain arrow, at roughly 275 fps. My coach shoots a very similar set-up, and he can shoot 120 yards with a 4" peep height with room to spare.

Note: My anchor point did not change just for distance shooting. It changed just because I was anchoring wrong to begin with. I was set-up for an index finger release, and it was just too high. When I switched to a thumb button, I moved my anchor to fit the peep sight, rather than do things correctly, and reset the peep.

Also, if you run a kisser button, ditch it. You will learn, as you raise your bow at those longer distances, your kisser will need to drop lower, and lower on your lip. None of the field target shooters that I shoot with run a kisser button any more. Your peep will also move up with your bow when you raise it for longer yardages. Not much, but it does. When that happens, your anchor needs to drop along with it.

This is what worked for me, and I am very much looking forward to shooting field target rounds this summer with my wife. Total Archery Challenge? Bring it on! Last year I walked up on a few targets cause my scope bottomed out at 70 yards, but I had 100 yards figured for the bottom of the level, lol. My wife maxed out at 55 yards, again using the bubble level on the bottom of the scope. I bet money that your peep height is just a little to low because of a naturally high anchor point.
 

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I was in the same boat last year. Yes, you can move your sight closer to the riser. This will gain you some yardage. Moving mine 2" farther in gained me about 10 yards worth of movement.

I have not seen anyone just remove their peep for distance shooting. The guys that shoot long ranges, such as 200 plus, will add a second peep, but not remove it.

For 100 to 150 yards, you may want to consider just changing your anchor point. My question to you, is what is the distance between your peep, and your arrow at full draw? I went from from 3.25" last year, and after working with a coach, he worked on my anchor point with a new bow, and now I am at 3.75" My wife is 3.50" and she will be able to shoot field target (out to 80 yards) rounds with her 40 pound, 25" Pro Defiant this year. (Most adult males that I know of are at about 3.75" to 4")

I am reading some other post here. Lowering your peep sight is going the wrong direction. (I think ahunter55 meant he moved his anchor down, peep sight up) Moving your nock point really is defeating the whole purpose of ever tuning a bow to begin with.

It is all in the anchor point. Watch the olympic recurve shooters. They anchor under the chin/ jaw. I went from an anchor that was too high to begin with. When you adjust your anchor, this will naturally move your peep sight up. Look at ahunter55 in his photos. His anchor is under his jaw. Mine is the space between my index, and middle knuckle, right on my jaw.

I am currently shooting a Hoyt Prevail at 27.5", and 55 pounds. I will have no issues moving my Axcel AV-41 scope down to 100 yards this summer. I will be shooting about a 320 grain arrow, at roughly 275 fps. My coach shoots a very similar set-up, and he can shoot 120 yards with a 4" peep height with room to spare.

Note: My anchor point did not change just for distance shooting. It changed just because I was anchoring wrong to begin with. I was set-up for an index finger release, and it was just too high. When I switched to a thumb button, I moved my anchor to fit the peep sight, rather than do things correctly, and reset the peep.

Also, if you run a kisser button, ditch it. You will learn, as you raise your bow at those longer distances, your kisser will need to drop lower, and lower on your lip. None of the field target shooters that I shoot with run a kisser button any more. Your peep will also move up with your bow when you raise it for longer yardages. Not much, but it does. When that happens, your anchor needs to drop along with it.

This is what worked for me, and I am very much looking forward to shooting field target rounds this summer with my wife. Total Archery Challenge? Bring it on! Last year I walked up on a few targets cause my scope bottomed out at 70 yards, but I had 100 yards figured for the bottom of the level, lol. My wife maxed out at 55 yards, again using the bubble level on the bottom of the scope. I bet money that your peep height is just a little to low because of a naturally high anchor point.
I'm on the same boat and this is exactly the issue. I have a very high anchor point (index finger behind the ear) and I'm maxed out at 72 yards on my slider. We are gearing up for the Total Archery Challenge and moving my peep up/ anchor point down is the ticket.
 

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Alternative? Take the scope off and just shoot a pin.

Before the fad of centering the round pin guard in the peep, there was no round pin guard. There may not have even been a pin guard.

This past January, one archer competed at Lancasters with just a single pin out front — no housing.
 
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