Archery Talk Forum banner

How do I keep a cape/head until I get it to a taxidermist?

26K views 20 replies 18 participants last post by  innate123  
#1 ·
I am going on a trip back to Missouri and am hoping to score a nice buck. How do I keep a cape and head for several days, on the road, before I get it to a taxidermist. I would think I just wrap it and put it in an ice chest, but what if the head and rack don't fit in the ice chest? Do I take the antlers off of the skull? Do I just wrap it in a big bag with dry ice?
 
#3 ·
Yeah, but do the heads and racks usually fit into an ice chest? I have never had to travel this far, so normally I just take it home, wrap it and put it in the freezer.
 
#4 ·
From Missouri to Denver. Not a real long drive.

My suggestion would be to completely cape the buck out. This means the whole head. Then I would put it in dry ice. A good place do do a little bit of research on it would be taxidermy.net. There are several posts there on how to cape one out completely.

You will need to research the "Y" incision behind the antlers. After that it is pretty simple, As you peel it down just cut it as close to the bone as you can. I find that a scalpel works well on the eyes and lips. Just try to leave as much extra meat as you can.
 
#5 ·
Get the cape off as soon as possible making sure to leave enough length behind the shoulder. Most head and antlers should fit in a large cooler. If possible try to freeze it prior to leaving. Normally i roll it up-freeze it-put it in a plastic bag garbage bag and it's good to go. Good luck.
 
#7 ·
If you don't know how to completely cape it out, just cape it up to where the neck meets the head and cut the head off, leaving the skull and antlers all attached and leaving one big piece of hide that runs all the way behind the shoulders. You can put it in a trash bag, put it in a cooler, and cover with ice. No, the antlers and all won't fit in the cooler, but get all you can in there under the ice and leave the lid open. Be sure the keep all of the hide iced, including the ears.
 
#8 ·
if there is no way to freeze it buy a box a borax and slap a bunch of that in side the cape and get a good air tight cooler one with latches on the out side put it in a bag and ice and dry ice. the problem with dry ice is once it its the air its gone so you need to keep that in mind
 
#9 ·
Take a rubbermade tote or cooler along and pack stuff in there. If you get a buck, cape it as far as you can, put it in a plastic bag and wrap the top of the bag around the antlers, then just pack dry ice(walmart sells it) on it and cover with a couple old blankets to keep the cool in.
 
#10 ·
make sure when you cape it you take it off of the neck meat as this meat will spoil and make it harder on your taxidermist if not frozen right away.
 
#16 ·
This will only work if it is caped off the skull.

The best thing to do is some how keep it cool and dry. The idea of a big container and bag the head and bury it in ice will work. If bacteria sets in you will get slippage and hair will fall out. If you can get it caped out would be the best thing. Don't roll to freeze as it takes too long for the center to thaw. Fold it and lay it flat so thaw isn't as long and will end up with less damages during thaw. If you was o cape and salt you apply salt to skin and hang over night and resalt. Don't salt and bag. The salt pulls the moisture from the skin.
 
#12 ·
Do I just wrap it in a big bag with dry ice?[/QUOTE], That would work I think. I have caped out a couple of bulls and done it the same way, but I had a 4 foot cooler to put it in. That was a real handy coolers I put thing in it when I went and we use it as a table at camp and put all most two elk meat in it boned out. I had two of them. Go to a meat packing plant and they have them to transporting meat.
 
#13 ·
Uh.. I don't know how many trophy racks/heads fit in an ice chest, I'd bet not many at all.

If it were me, I'd just take a box of contractors bags, use 5 or 6 of them, put some ice in the bottom as a layer, then put the head/rack/cape in afterwards and pack with ice. I'd then fold the bag up the best way possible and duct tape around the bag (should be the bottom and sides where the antlers are) to try and stop it from puncturing the contractor bags.

Contractor bags are super tough though and 5 or 6 IMO, would be safe enough unless you plan on doing some nasty 4x4 trails on the way home. :D

If you have a room to bring it, a large garbage CAN (those rubbermaid round ones) works well and will hold just about any trophy rack. Pack with ice, done deal.
 
#17 ·
I cape it out and salt because a lot of times I can not get to a freezer or ice. If you want do this method it is good to talk to your taxidermist in advance so you know what he needs (if you have never skinned out the face before ask if he will teach you).

What my taxi ask for
1) Clean up the hide of meat and fat(you don't want the skin to exceed a 1/4 inch or the salt will not penetrate proper)
2)get the salt into all the little folds of the hide
3)day 1 salt hide heavy
4)day 2 clean off the salt(brush or scrape it off do not use water) from day one and reapply not as heavy this time
5) Keep it dry and let it air out(water will cause bacteria to grow faster)
6)foul skin sides together and then fold it up for transport in a bag
7) A 2 litre bottle off salt is the min for shoulder mount with deer size game

This is just what I have been told(I am not a taxi)and all the trophies I have done this way have come out good
 
#19 ·
Finally we have a winner !!!!!!!!!!

I have not found a store bought cooler that a 140" 10 point will fit in.

Cape it out to the back of the head.

Cut the head off.

Roll the cape up as per the above pic.

Wrap the head/hide in multiple garbage bags - leave the horns exposed (Handles) - duct tape it closed - Keep the hide dry.

Put about a foot of ice in the bottom of the garbage can.

Add cape.

Add more ice.

Add the lid and duct tape it shut.

Cover the whole deal with a tarp - secure with bungees and duct tape - ice will last twice as long.

hint = Poke a drain hole near the bottom of the can - keep it plugged till you need to drain it

hint = put the can in the back of the bed (close to tail gate) makes it easier to drain.

Hint = when you need to replenish the ice - Take the cape out and repack with ice from scratch

Brought more than a few back to FL from TX and this is the best I have found.

Is this a big hassle - YES - Is it worth the effort - No doubt about it
 
#20 ·
This is great input! Thanks everyone for your ideas and help. Now I hope I kill a buck worth trying it all out on!