[huntertroy]

I want to know what is your bare shaft tuning method . Are you just shooting a bare shaft and a fetched at one distance and seeing where they impact or multiple distances. Or are you shooting bare shaft through paper etc.
Thanks

 

[rafca_age]

i'd recomend looking up eastons tuning manual it will give you the info your need
here

http://www.eastonarchery.com/downloads/tuning-guide

 

[huntertroy]

Thanks for the link but I should of clarified better. I'm more curious on the individual methods of our archerytalk brothers and sisters .

 

[skynight]

Bare shaft through paper at multiple distances. Then I check it at 20yds with fletched. Always right there.

 

[rafca_age]

Bare shaft through paper at multiple distances. Then I check it at 20yds with fletched. Always right there.

sorry about the misunderstanding i own a shop and i tune the same way as skynight

 

[rafca_age]

if your looking into advanced tunning methods you should look into french tuning you can find a you tube vid on it

 

[Z-Rocket]

I tune thru paper

 

[nuts&bolts]

I want to know what is your bare shaft tuning method . Are you just shooting a bare shaft and a fetched at one distance and seeing where they impact or multiple distances. Or are you shooting bare shaft through paper etc.
Thanks

DRILL A TUNNEL.

Cardboard.
Pin to your target.
SHOULDER height target.
Now, scotch tape a bullseye target to the cardboard. This will give you REALLY CLEAN hole.

Now,
ONE fletched arrow in your quiver.
DUCT tape shooting line.

2 yards.
Duct tape is 2 YARDS from the target, the shoulder height target, bullseye at YOUR shoulder height.
This way, your arrow will be DEAD LEVEL, when at full draw.

Fire the fletched arrow.
Use your 20 yd pin.
Hang up your bow.
PULL out the fletched arrow.

You have an empty target.
ONE hole, from your fletched arrow.

Now,
back to the 2 yd shooting line.

Load a BARESHAFT arrow. Just strip off the vanes, with a utility knife. Leave behind the base of the vane, if you like.
NOO, don't need to put tape on the back end of the arrow. That's just an excuse, if you miss.

Fire the bareshaft arrow
and see if you can STUFF the bareshaft arrow, into the SAME hole.

Do this ten times,
fire the bareshaft,
hang up the bow,
pull out the bareshaft,
fire the bareshaft.

This is a test MORE of YOUR shooting consistency, at 2 yards.

When you can pass the 2 yard test,
stuffing the bareshaft INTO THE SAME hole....

then,
try 4 yards.

If your bareshaft misses HIGH or LOW, above or below HOLE #1, from your fletched arrow..

UN-SYNC your cams, ON PURPOSE. A half twist, on ONE cable (if you are using a binary) should do it.

Now, at 4 yards, you are STUFFING the bareshaft into the SAME hole.
Once, you are lucky.
TEN times, then you are consistent.

Try 8 yards.

You get the idea.

 

[Huntinsker]

I like to get a bow set to where I know it's a good place to start with the initial setup. That means get the centershot set, cam lean, cams synced or timed like I want and all of the basic setup stuff. Then I shoot fletched and bareshafts at 10 yards. That's to make sure there is no MAJOR problems that will cause me to lose or break bareshafts at longer range. If they are close at 10, usually they are hitting with fletched and at a good angle, I step back to 20 yards. Tune for perfect flight there and then go to 25 and 30. When I do my job at 20, 25 and 30 bareshafts are perfect too assuming I'm doing my part and making good shots.

I used to do the modified French and shooting at a string at short range stuff but I found that it took a lot more time and shots to get to the same end result as tuning at 20.