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Yup. And don't ever launch a bareshaft with a broadhead screwed onto it.
 

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In the end, if you know how to read both they both show you the same thing in regard to nock/rest position and spine. But bareshaft doesn't point out a few things as plainly or as easily read as paper. And bareshafts really don't show fletching clearance issues. :lol:

For instance, if your bare shafts hit low you'll see a high tear in paper. If the bareshafts hit left you'll see a right tear in paper. See the pattern?
 

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personally i dont waste my time bareshaft tuning ive spent hours doing it and i get same results with paper tuning.i just paper tune, group tune then walk back tune.
 

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Big time bareshaft tuner here. To answer the OP's question.

First thing I apply tape where the fletchings go that weighs the same.

Your supposed to get center shot set prior to bareshaft tuning.

Then any time during bareshaft shooting that the shaft hits higher or lower than fletched arrows, you need to bring bareshaft down or up to meet fletched arrows. Doesnt matter if its off to the side initially.

Then after bringing the two down together, then proceed to get windage together. If, during the process, bareshaft hits higher or lower, bring it back to meet the fletched arrows.

Bareshaft shooting and tuning requires the best form you can do. So dont make adjustments if one shaft hits off. It could very well be you. Shoot a couple of shafts and look for the trend.

Those are the basics. It be best if you do a little reading so you get a fuller understanding of bareshaft tuning. Its well worth doing IMO. But you need to know what to look for as far as arrow spine so your not chasing incorrect spine.
 
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