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Most definitely.
Draw length specific cams are usually sold in half inch sizes.
So,
when you want to make an "in-between size" adjustment,
like 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch,
just twist up the bowstring,
and fine tune your draw length.
It will have a noticeable effect on how steady you hold the bow.
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I typically don't like to mess with string and cable lengths too much on a single cam... especially one that's properly timed, best to leave it alone.
Is it possible to use a slightly shorter string loop, or shorten the draw a full module size (not sure if this is 1/2" or 1" on a Ross?) and use a slightly longer loop?
Is it possible to use a slightly shorter string loop, or shorten the draw a full module size (not sure if this is 1/2" or 1" on a Ross?) and use a slightly longer loop?
You also might consider going to a "shorter" release - like the Short 'N Sweet or the Scott Silverhorn. The point where the release attaches to the loop is very close to your index finger knuckle. And you can also run a very short loop with these hook type releases.
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2,013 Posts
Twisting the string about 4-6 twists should get you about 1/4" shorter... You can also untwist the cable which will shorten the draw more agressively, however you will also lose a small amount of poundage by untwisting the cable.
Be sure to redo your nock point after you make the adjustment as twisting the string will move your nock point UP!
Don't worry too much about the timing on the single cam, as it is more of a refference location than a requirement, however the correct draw length is more important.
Changing your D-loop length will do nothing for the physical draw length of the bow. Your D-loop ties your physical draw length to your anchor point, that's it!!
-Adam
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We differ in opinion here. When you get right down to it, what's the definition of draw length?
To me the draw length is the distance between your opposing hands, while at full draw in the shooting position, more or less. I understand this is not how it's measured, but this relationship between hands is what we're concerned about. You can absolutely change this distance by altering the string loop and/or release length. The physical draw length of the bow does not change, but the percieved draw length does.
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Terminology.
The total distance between the bow riser
and the release hand determines how well the bow
fits the body parts of the shooter.
Figuring out the AMO bow draw draw length setting
is a 2-step procedure.
Gotta get out the tape measure
and measure between the pivot point on the grip
and the spot where the nock groove touches the bowstring at full draw,
and write down this measurement on a piece of paper,
and then add 1.75-inches to the number on the piece of paper.
If we are talking about how well the bow system fits
the shooter,
then, of course, all of the things below
a) shape of the grip (angle of the grip...low wrist, medium wrist, high wrist)
b) thickness of the grip at the throat area
c) d-loop length
d) wrist strap rod connector or strap connector length
these all affect the fit between the shooter
and the bow system.
So,
lately,
I've taken to talking about the TOTAL DISTANCE
between the throat of the grip to the elbow tip (release side).
This way,
then there is no confusion.
We can talk endlessly about short, medium or long d-loops.
We can talk about shorter, medium or way too long wrist strap release adjustments.
D-loop material is rather stretchy.
If you use the pliers method,
the d-loop will stretch a certain amount.
If you use Viper d-loop pliers,
then you can get even more stretch on the d-loop.
If you use a screwdriver
and pull with everything you have,
then you get a different amount of stretch.
So,
to answer Lost in Mi......
if we are talking about the TOTAL DISTANCE
between the bow riser and the tip of your release side elbow....
several ways to shorten this TOTAL DISTANCE.
When you figure out how you want to shrink
the TOTAL DISTANCE between the bow riser
and the tip of your release side elbow......
you will shoot tighter groups.
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I agree with pretty much everything you've said here, but have a question...
Are you agreeing that changing loop and/or release length will affect the draw length, or more accurately stated, "TOTAL DISTANCE", since this is what we're concerned about anyway?
If so, we're on the same page.
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2,013 Posts
Let's break it down a little further...
There are essentally 4 contact points that make up your total anchor (not including your peep sight).
Those can be broken down into 2 regions with 2 refference points in each region.
Front half - The relationship between the tip of your nose & the bowstring & the relationship between the corner of your mouth & the bowstring. This is the PHYSICAL & static draw length of the bow.
Back half - Your physical contact point that you use for your bone to bone anchor & the position of your finger or thumb on the trigger..
The D-loop ties these 2 regions together. Variances in the distance between individuals release hand anchor point location & the tip of an archers nose require varying lengths of D-loop to tie the 2 together.
You can make a simplified statement in regards to the distance between your hands, but that does not account for the variables noted above.
ROSCOE also suggest a shorter release - This still does not address the issue of the physical constraints of the distance between the release hand anchor point & the string position on the face.
If you use the same length D-loop with a release that has a shorter distance from the trigger to the release hook, you would then be pressing your nose into the string more. You would then need to leverage a longer D-loop in order for the facial refference points to normalize.
EXAMPLE - If for example someone made the statement that they wanted to LENGTHEN their draw length becuase they felt that the bowstring was making too much contact with their face, would changing the draw length change that relationship in any way? :wink:
-Adam
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We can break it down and talk in circles all day, really. When concerned with this much detail one may even need to change physical draw length depending upon the axle to axle length of their bow and/or cam design, since these factors weigh heavily on the string angle at full draw.
Example- Going from a 38" bow with a conservative string angle to a 30" bow with a more acute angle may require an individual to lengthen the draw length a 1/2" to an inch to get the physical location of the string at full draw to a familiar position... but then the relationship between hands changes.
I'm not trying to disagree with you entirely, as most of what you're saying is correct... I just beleive it's information overkill for someone looking to alter their bows draw length by 1/4"... when we're talking about a change this insignificant, change the loop, unless you're an olympic caliber archer.
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Yup.I agree with pretty much everything you've said here, but have a question...
Are you agreeing that changing loop and/or release length will affect the draw length, or more accurately stated, "TOTAL DISTANCE", since this is what we're concerned about anyway?
If so, we're on the same page.
All part of the system.
Some folks want the nock on a certain spot on da face.
What you do with bow arm elbow bend,
affects the nock position on da face.
If you want your knuckles on your release hand on a certain spot
on your face, then this is where the d-loop length
and the wrist strap adjustment work together,
to help you put your hand on your face at a particular spot.
Change one part of the system, or multiple parts of the system
to get where you want to go,
in this case, for lost in mi,
a "shorter" total system.
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1,884 Posts
The poor guy didn't ask for all kinds of gibberish on elbows and D-loops and releases.
Simple questions deserve simple answers.....
Shortening the string decreases draw length of the bow. How many twists it takes to shorten the draw a 1/4" is entirely dependant on how many twists are presently in the string....the more twisted it is then the less twists you have to add to effect a change, whereas a string that has hardly any twists will require a greater number of twists to shorten the draw a 1/4".
Lengthening the cable will shorten the draw length also.
On a solo cam, changing the length of either the cable or the string in this manner will also affect your nock point height in relation to your berger button hole and the changes also affect draw weight too.
Hope THIS answers your question.............
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That's what I said!!! :wink: We just decided to argue a little after the fact.. ha ha ha
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