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For me its when a fletched arrow shots trough a free hanging(nothing holding bottom or side just hanging ) sheet of typing paper and the paper dose not move as the arrow passes trough and you get a perfect hole thats how all my bows are tuned and any broadhead I shot flays like a guided missile
 

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When I shoot at sixty yards and the shots impact in a tight group and I can call the bad shots. Adjustments are made until the best groups are achieved.
 

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I’m with you on the paper tuning. I’ll start off by squaring my rest and nock point, then move to paper tuning, with both a fletched arrow and bare shaft. Then I’ll move to target practice with fletched arrows and a bare shaft just to make sure my bare shaft is grouping with the fletched ones and hitting the target square (not only does this help bow tuning, but also with practicing your shot sequence and follow through), then it’s on to broadhead tuning with fixed blades. Once I have my broadheads hitting with my field tips, then I’m satisfied. I used to think that it was impossible to get fixed blade heads to group with field tips, then I actually learned how to tune a bow and set up an arrow the right way


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quite simply,...the better tuned your bow is, the more forgiving it will be. most people pay attention to the good, well executed shots and dismiss the shot where they know they made small mistakes. as you tune , do just the opposite,.... pay attention to the results you get on shots that you know you made small form or execution errors. when they start going in as well as the well executed shots, your bow is getting close to being tuned as well as it can be.
 

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My Elk Hunting Home
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I start with BS tuning to get it all close, but when I get my fixed blade BH's hitting exactly the same as my FP arrows at 60 then my bows shoot extremely well at all distances.
 

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If I am hitting behind my pin. Tight groups. Easy hold. Shots breaking clean.


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Back Yard Champion
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Well, a well tuned bow is one that has been tuned with someone who can shoot well. But then, you don't have to have a well tuned bow to hit what you want if you're up to it. Okay, you have to be "tuned" better than the bow.......

Some say that a target point and fixed broadhead hitting together is that of a well tuned bow. Some say a fletched shaft and bare shaft hitting together at 20 yards is that of a well tuned bow.

My bows are tuned when they hit where I want them to...........
 

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For me I'm satisfied when I get BH's hitting the same POI as my FP's. Also way more convenient when packing a grouse arrow while elk hunting so I can hold my pin right on and not have to hold off the bird to hit it.
 

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when my bow is tuned. as long as the arrow is not underspine. I can shoot any spine with any tip weight and get a bullet hole or damn near with a bare shaft at 20 yards.

that means if a 350 spine is weak with a 300gr tip then I can shoot that arrow with a 250 to 100gr tip or any configuration with a 300,250,200,150 spine arrow with minor adjustments. test height do to arrow OD changesor nock tuning.
 

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Where do you stop tuning? I thought I had a well tuned bow, but I tried Torque Tuning and found it worked. Maybe not for everyone and then maybe not everyone needs to torque tune.
 

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can I shoot it?
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It’s a lot like asking when is you rifle “accurate enough”. Will one inch groups do when you can get it to 3/4 groups? Will 3/4 groups do if you can get it to 1/2 inch groups? When it will consistently do what you want it to do, when you do your part, it is tuned enough for the job you want it to do.
 

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I don’t know about perfectly tuned, but I stopped tuning my hunting and long range bow when it became capable of baseball sized 5 arrow groups at 100 yards and gave me all the forgiveness I could wring out of it.

At that point, I refused to touch anything else. I don’t care what new idea I have, I try it on a different bow, that one is done. I have done nothing other than change the center serving in a year on that bow, and then I took super meticulous notes and measurements.

I care about grouping and forgiveness. I use torque tuning, bareshaft, and line tuning to get there, but the measurement that matters is how well it shoots. I believe my bow now shoots the bareshaft a little low and left now after the tuning, who cares. I swap sights when it’s time to hunt and that sight is sighted in to the broadheads and it pounds.

My target rig, I haven’t been happy with it’s performance in a long time. I’ll keep tuning it until it gets to the point that it shoots as good as I think it can. If it doesn’t get there in the next 12 months, I’ll be moving on.

D
 

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Where do you stop tuning? I thought I had a well tuned bow, but I tried Torque Tuning and found it worked. Maybe not for everyone and then maybe not everyone needs to torque tune.
Sonny. U are an expert shooter, so torque tuning will give you benefits.
Thanks, Alan, but I sure don't feel that I'm a expert.....

The average shooter could benefit to some degree. All one has to do is be kind of consistent and understand the process. Okay, sort X ring accurate or there of one only has to be torque one direction and torque the same each time. You don't here and there torque. I used a gauge.

Torque Tuning - http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showthread.php?t=3702642


I figure it's like bare shaft tuning and those who can't bare shaft tune. After beating myself to death over the past few weeks I done found out there are two manners to set center, moving the arrow rest. Yes, I found the factory center shot (my bows) ain't always right. First, there is what you have given many times over - taping a arrow to the riser and moving the rest so the rest arrow runs parallel to the taped arrow. The other way, eyes being good, is aligning the bow string to the cams (upper usually) and moving the rest to align the arrow with the bow string. Okay, both give a start for center shot. So few have some that can't bare shaft tune and I'm one of those - close, but cigar poor. Those that can't bare shaft tune can use French tuning or one of the variations. Okay, I use vertical drawn lines (felt pen) so I can use 9 feet and still use the line for 30 yards - line long enough I can go 50 yards. So sight in at 9 feet. Then shoot 30 yards (to start at least). Shoot a group of arrows (3 or more) and disregard flyers. So you move the arrow rest just enough for the center of the group (3,4 or 5 inches even). Okay, just follow the French tuning process. After the rest is moved a tiny bit one zeros back in at 9 feet and the 30 yards. Find center of the group. Did it move? Did you move it enough? Did you move it too much? Did you it just right? Answer the one of the questions. If the last test it again or test it another day.

Maybe not perfect, but I've got perfect enough that I've Robin Hooded fletched arrows with a bare shaft and my fixed broadheads are pin point accurate out to my self imposed limit of 40 yards.........
 

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Back Yard Champion
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I don’t know about perfectly tuned, but I stopped tuning my hunting and long range bow when it became capable of baseball sized 5 arrow groups at 100 yards and gave me all the forgiveness I could wring out of it.

At that point, I refused to touch anything else. I don’t care what new idea I have, I try it on a different bow, that one is done. I have done nothing other than change the center serving in a year on that bow, and then I took super meticulous notes and measurements.

I care about grouping and forgiveness. I use torque tuning, bareshaft, and line tuning to get there, but the measurement that matters is how well it shoots. I believe my bow now shoots the bareshaft a little low and left now after the tuning, who cares. I swap sights when it’s time to hunt and that sight is sighted in to the broadheads and it pounds.

My target rig, I haven’t been happy with it’s performance in a long time. I’ll keep tuning it until it gets to the point that it shoots as good as I think it can. If it doesn’t get there in the next 12 months, I’ll be moving on.

D
"I swap sights when it’s time to hunt and that sight is sighted in to the broadheads and it pounds."

Pete Shepley, Mr PSE, has said the above more than a few times. I believe if your broadhead is accurate and consistent you shouldn't have to worry about target point arrows until it's paper or 3D time......
 
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