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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When tuning a bowtech with deadlock, are you supposed to move both cams in the same direction, or should you adjust them for cam lean that may move them in opposite directions?

I replaced my strings and reset my cams to the middle, but didn't think to check where they were set (yeah, noob mistake). When I re-tuned I moved both cams to the right but noticed the string and cams were not parallel with each other. It was very noticeable like my strings were on edge of derailing. So I reset and adjusted for cam lean getting the string and cams to be straight with each other at full draw. But, this meant my top cam went left and my bottom went right.

When I tuned again, I very slightly moved the top and bottom cams to right as one and was getting bullets.

So how the heck do you use this system? Thanks!
 

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Maybe read the manual?
 

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I would assume that it's similar to shimming cams. If you are right handed and you are getting a nock right tear then move both cams right slightly. Move both left for left tear.

Just like when yoke tuning you twist right yokes top and bottom for nock right tear.
 

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Miller Time
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Not sure why you moved them in the first place just to replace strings but ok.

Same direction. Don’t think of it as yoke tuning, it’s still a binary cam so what you are doing is nothing more than shimming the cams except you don’t have to take the axles out to do so.

I’d reset them back to center and then tune from there. To do this the manual says to move both cams all the way to the right (turning the deadlock counterclockwise). Then turn them back clockwise 2 full revolutions. Ive gone both all the way to the left and right then back the other direct and found that it pretty close, within 1/2 turn either way.

With the deadlock you literally can set centershot pretty much where you want but because you didn’t post what bow it is I’d start at 13/16 unless it’s the Solution in which case 3/4-11/16.
Then it’s as easy as tuning feom there using what ever method tickles your fancy. But always move the cams the same direction.

I can only speak from my experience but my Solution has almost zero cam lean at brace or full draw, because of this the top cam does come off the cam at an angle. I have probably 1500 shots through the bow at this time and it is a non issue.

Btw using this method with both my RevoltX and Solution, it took very little effort to get bareshafts, fletched and fixed heads to hit together out to 40.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Not sure why you moved them in the first place just to replace strings but ok.

Same direction. Don’t think of it as yoke tuning, it’s still a binary cam so what you are doing is nothing more than shimming the cams except you don’t have to take the axles out to do so.

I’d reset them back to center and then tune from there. To do this the manual says to move both cams all the way to the right (turning the deadlock counterclockwise). Then turn them back clockwise 2 full revolutions. Ive gone both all the way to the left and right then back the other direct and found that it pretty close, within 1/2 turn either way.

With the deadlock you literally can set centershot pretty much where you want but because you didn’t post what bow it is I’d start at 13/16 unless it’s the Solution in which case 3/4-11/16.
Then it’s as easy as tuning feom there using what ever method tickles your fancy. But always move the cams the same direction.

I can only speak from my experience but my Solution has almost zero cam lean at brace or full draw, because of this the top cam does come off the cam at an angle. I have probably 1500 shots through the bow at this time and it is a non issue.

Btw using this method with both my RevoltX and Solution, it took very little effort to get bareshafts, fletched and fixed heads to hit together out to 40.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
appreciate help - it a revolt so center is shaft parallel to riser as i read manual.

so my string can be angled a little from cam - just found it weird but im no great archer
 

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appreciate help - it a revolt so center is shaft parallel to riser as i read manual.

so my string can be angled a little from cam - just found it weird but im no great archer
Shoot thru a paper tuner
or shoot bareshafts. Ignore "looking" at the string, so the string Looks Right or string does not Look Right.

Right nock paper tear. Move the cam (top cam) to the right. THIS means move cam closer to the right end of the top axle. If you are changing shims, that means put a WIDER shim on the left side of the top cam, and a THINNER shim on the right side of the top cam. So, with the Dead Lock System, turn the bolt to move the cam to the right.

What about the bottom cam? Tune the top cam with the Dead Lock and see if you kill the nock RIGHT paper tear.
The TOP axle Dead Lock system will give you a medium size correction, for say a 1/4 turn of the wrench.
If that 1/4 turn of the wrench is not enough of a correction

then, you can try a 1/4 turn of the wrench on the bottom Dead Lock system. Cuz the bottom axle is farther away from the arrow rest holes. So, working the bottom axle Dead Lock system will result in a finer correction. Same deal. To correct a RIGHT NOCK tear...move the cam (bottom cam, top cam) towards/closer to the RIGHT end of the axle.
 

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Mark
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I’d set centershot at 13/16”. Adjust both cams to get bare shaft without tears. Easy to do on Revolt. Using calipers I measure the distance from limb to cam and get them the same. Don’t focus on cam lean, it’s not yoke tuning, Bowtechs website doesn’t show a preset cam lean on bows with deadlock so don’t over think it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’d set centershot at 13/16”. Adjust both cams to get bare shaft without tears. Easy to do on Revolt. Using calipers I measure the distance from limb to cam and get them the same. Don’t focus on cam lean, it’s not yoke tuning, Bowtechs website doesn’t show a preset cam lean on bows with deadlock so don’t over think it.
dont overthink it isnt said enough on this site lol thanks!
 
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