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I know some people don't paper tune...they make sure the rest is center shot and correct nock point and then adjust by visual flight of the arrow. Some won't shoot a bow until it shoots perfect bullet holes..
So will a bow that is paper tuned perfectly always have perfect arrow flight (assuming the shooter isn't torquing..etc)
 

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1/4ing away said:
I know some people don't paper tune...they make sure the rest is center shot and correct nock point and then adjust by visual flight of the arrow. Some won't shoot a bow until it shoots perfect bullet holes..
So will a bow that is paper tuned perfectly always have perfect arrow flight (assuming the shooter isn't torquing..etc)
Paper tuning is a nice starting point. But perfect bullet holes don't always mean that you have tuned your bow for maximum forgiveness. I like line tuning over distance myself.
 

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Every time I make significant changes to my set up ie. new bow, arrows, rest etc. I always put few arrows through paper.

This is usually good starting point, then I start fine tuning ie. walk back and group tuning.

I'll take tight group over perfect bullet hole in paper anytime.
 

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I never have really understood how to tune by distance. Can anyone explain.
 

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I love it for finding nock and rest height and looking for signs of fletching contact or hand torque, but that is where it's usefulness ends for me.
 

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Tunning 101

So many people are paper tuning? I have seen laser, levels, rod and walk back tuning and it will work but here is my story:
If the center of you bow is the burger button hole, why don’t we use it? If the string and cam/idler are the center of the bow vertically, why don’t we use it?
Take a look at the Rest Assured Tuning Tool and see how it works!
Why do we throw our bows out of time to make an arrow shoot?
Why don’t we find an arrow that will shoot with our bows in time?
I do some vertical line walk back tuning only to see if my arrow selection is right.
The first thing I would do is to purchase a Rest Assured and set my rest up RIGHT and try the arrow. I have to see if it will hit a vertical line at 5 feet and then walk back 50 yards and see if the arrow still hits the line at that distance, if so than you are set. If the arrow hit left of the vertical line at 50 yards you can try adding or taking away point weight until the arrow hit its mark. Some arrows to stiff and require a little more weight up front to help brake the spine(stiffness). Once you have found the magic arrow you are ready some of the best shooting you have ever done.
http://www.xteam1.com/restassured.htm
 

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I agree with RK, its a starting point. I'll set my rest to manufactors center shot; then walk back tune. Seems to work for me.
 

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paper tune is a good starting point from everything I can tell. Then walk back and group tuning.

If I could shoot a group I'd use group tuning.. :sad:
 

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I like the walk back tuning method myself I personal think paper tuning is over rated.If the arrow impacts were you want it to what does it matter?
 

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Paper tuning has its place but I personally prefer methods that are more indicative of what the shaft is doing at the distances I shoot in competition.
Cheers
Peter
 

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leon j chartier said:
I like the walk back tuning method myself I personal think paper tuning is over rated.If the arrow impacts were you want it to what does it matter?
What if you have a small shooting lane and a buck is in it at 30 yards, If your arrow is flying wild not striaght chances are your going to hit a limb or a leaf and not hit what your aiming at
 

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Never really paper tuned that much.. and walk back.. try to.. but to be honest I ain't that good and I wonder if it is me. (I shoot about 290's/30 @ 20 yds.) When I do miss I am pretty sure it was me... not the arrow or the bow.

Plus, a big plus, IF, all your arrows are exactly the same, and you do the exact same thing when you shoot everytime.. tuning them or the bow, is not all that important.. or so I have read.. when I get good enough to really tell the diff.. I will find out!
 

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Paper tuning has it's place and I still use it periodically. It's most useful to me when bare shaft tuning.

Something I learned when tuning my Pearson Gen II was that even with the rest 1/4" off of center left or right only resulted in a tear that was less than 2". By "death gripping" the bow, jerking the trigger, etc. I was able to get HUGE tears in excess of 4". I could produce bullet holes with this bow as long as the nock point or center shot was within 1/16" of being correct. Move out to 80 yards and 1/16" is a big problem, and it's a big problem with broadheads. This tells me that a VAST majority of paper tuning issues are shooter related.
 

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Just tuned my new Switchback XT

Just pulled my new Switchback XT out of the box and put on a sight and rest.
I Got my eye directly behind the string by centering myself off of the cam and
believe I get pretty close. I centered the v in the rest to the string then put on an arrow and found it to be directly centered. Shot a couple of arrows and got arrow tail right (slightly). Moved rest in the direction of the "tail" and
got them flying straight. Chased the arrow with my sight until I was shooting
2" groups dead center at 20 yards. Set 30 pin sight and shot 3" groups. Its
a crude way to set a bow up but its fast and I was very happy with the groups I am shooting with a new bow. I still would like to shoot through paper to see how close I am to straight arrow flight.
 

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bartman said:
So many people are paper tuning? I have seen laser, levels, rod and walk back tuning and it will work but here is my story:
If the center of you bow is the burger button hole, why don’t we use it? If the string and cam/idler are the center of the bow vertically, why don’t we use it?
Take a look at the Rest Assured Tuning Tool and see how it works!
Why do we throw our bows out of time to make an arrow shoot?
Why don’t we find an arrow that will shoot with our bows in time?
I do some vertical line walk back tuning only to see if my arrow selection is right.
The first thing I would do is to purchase a Rest Assured and set my rest up RIGHT and try the arrow. I have to see if it will hit a vertical line at 5 feet and then walk back 50 yards and see if the arrow still hits the line at that distance, if so than you are set. If the arrow hit left of the vertical line at 50 yards you can try adding or taking away point weight until the arrow hit its mark. Some arrows to stiff and require a little more weight up front to help brake the spine(stiffness). Once you have found the magic arrow you are ready some of the best shooting you have ever done.
http://www.xteam1.com/restassured.htm
pretty much along the same line as me..........



alot of guys paper tune an arrow that is way off in spine, doing that is like setting your car to drive straight when the wheel is pointed the whole way to the left...........
 

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I think the error in paper tuning is only to do it at one distance...when it is shooting bullet holes at one distance, the user thinks it is done and set up.

If you can really see what the arrow is doing in flight, there might not be a reason to paper tune. Some folks are better at it than others.

I think the paper tuning is a great way to start a setup. You get it to shoot bullet holes with bare shafts and fletched shafts...then if you are shooting bare shafts, field points, and broadheads in the same hole at 25 or 40 yards then you know you have something. but just a paper tuned bow at 10 feet might not mean a whole lot in the real world. I always start with it though. but some guys I shoot with can tune a bow just by watching the arrow, some of us can't see the arrow flight good enough to do that.

An arrow shooting straight off the bow sheds less energy getting to target and it is always best if it enters said target, a deer for example, flying straight rather than kicked off to one side or another, regardless of where the tip hits.
 

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paper tuning

bartman said:
So many people are paper tuning? I have seen laser, levels, rod and walk back tuning and it will work but here is my story:
If the center of you bow is the burger button hole, why don’t we use it? If the string and cam/idler are the center of the bow vertically, why don’t we use it?
Take a look at the Rest Assured Tuning Tool and see how it works!
Why do we throw our bows out of time to make an arrow shoot?
Why don’t we find an arrow that will shoot with our bows in time?
I do some vertical line walk back tuning only to see if my arrow selection is right.
The first thing I would do is to purchase a Rest Assured and set my rest up RIGHT and try the arrow. I have to see if it will hit a vertical line at 5 feet and then walk back 50 yards and see if the arrow still hits the line at that distance, if so than you are set. If the arrow hit left of the vertical line at 50 yards you can try adding or taking away point weight until the arrow hit its mark. Some arrows to stiff and require a little more weight up front to help brake the spine(stiffness). Once you have found the magic arrow you are ready some of the best shooting you have ever done.
http://www.xteam1.com/restassured.htm
OK for one if you built a race car and set the timing in the garage ,static on the engine stand then install it and not recheck it running?
Well of course not. It is a tunung tool to make sure you have things working properly.
Yes you use berger buton hole and other things to line stuff up initially but you gotta have something to fine tune it.
A friend of mine was shooting a "perfectly tuned bow " and then had broad heads shooting 8 in to one side , then he figured out that if you tune everything to dead on including your BH then your done but if its only set up for fp and wont shoot Bh then your only going 80 %.
After he figured this out he can drill hole with his bow.
Get this he is so good at shooting he puts kitchen matches up and strikes them with an arrow at 20 yrds! He never goes without gamemeat in the winter but he says he tried 3d brush shoot but the people putting it on didnt like him trying to field dress it and he said that foam tastes like crp even bar be qued!.
Honestly its just a tuning aid and some people dont use it "because" but dont figure that they are leaving out some valuable information.
 

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Paper tuning only helps people with perfect form to see their perfect form. Ill sometimes get lazy and have a customer shoot a bow through the paper while we are in the process of setting it up and it never fails... they almost always get strange tears. So then I strap on a release and shoot perfect bullets.

Paper tuning isnt worthless but its not far from it. Ill use use it primarily to test for high/low tears rather than left/right tears.

And I can also shoot an arrow that is underspined by AT standards but get perfect bullet holes in paper. Arrows like 250 Maximas out of 70lb Bowtechs.
 

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bowhuntr18 said:
What if you have a small shooting lane and a buck is in it at 30 yards, If your arrow is flying wild not striaght chances are your going to hit a limb or a leaf and not hit what your aiming at
Well, for one thing it is *really* hard to have an arrow follow an erratic path in a short distance and then go down the same at a longer distance.

That is, an arrow isn't going to shoot in a 4 inch group at 0-10 yards (very wild arrow flight) and then a 1 inch group at 20. Once it is off where you are aiming it is not going to magically correct to where you pin was aimed (well, unless it is pure luck, or "flying wild" just happened to work once).

Nor does paper tuning give you perfect arrow flight - it is a starting point. I've seen bows that paper tune perfect yet can not group with a flip. Once tuned to group (including broadheads) have a horrid tear.

Personally I take accurate/precise arrow flight over anything. By definition accurate/precise arrow flight is the *least* wild flying arrow you can get. Having an arrow that flys as straight and consistent as possible will get you through that narrow lane, good tear or not.
 
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