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I have mine cut to 29 with a 29 draw length. I don't see any downside to it but maybe there is an advantage for a shorter arrow.
 

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I have mine cut so the back end of the broadhead is about 1/4 before the arms of my qad rest.

I have a short draw so I cut mine down so short as too beable too increase the total arrow weight and foc with insert weights too the highest my setup can throw without having it lose ke and momentum due too arrow speed dropping too low.

This also allows me too use a cheaper priced shaft because cutting it down so short increases the spine and thightens the tolerances of the shaft.
 

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The Ranch Fairy
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911 Posts
1/2" - 1" past the front of the riser. 29" is about right for me.
1. No broadhead issues. I shoot a ton of different ones doing reviews
2. I've seen and experienced finicky arrow flight as the tip of the arrow is more and more above the handle i.e. shorter.
3. I find longer arrows are more forgiving for broadheads.

Trust me. The extra 8 GPI has absolutely no impact. Unless you run an atom splitting machine. Then, yeah, microns matter.
 

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1 1/4" past the riser. I have found that different model bows seem to vary with the same draw length. I rather have a slightly longer arrow than end up with arrows that are too short if I change bows.
 

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mine are always cut 1-1.5" in front of the rest prongs in the up position...same for a Biscuit, I have one on the back up bow... for me, a 30" draw/28" arrow... draw length is not arrow length... I cant stand overly long arrows ..
 

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team whacknstack
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ima 28.25 draw an my shafts are 27.25 with a qad it plenty enuff ahead of the prongs
 

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29" draw, 27" arrows, 3/4" in front of my biscuit, which is about midway through the riser. its the shortest i can comfortably go. by cutting them the shortest i can, it 'stiffens' the spine and makes the tolerances 'tighter.' i do that because i can take a commonly available shaft (.340 gold tip hunter xt) and get good prices on them. cost is factor for me. i can take that .340 and cut it short and stick in a heavy brass insert into it without being underspined. gives me a 475gr arrow with 18% FoC without the big expense/limited sources of .300 spine arrows.
 

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The Impartial Archer
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I cut mine so they don't hit the rest. I like to leave them long enough so if I over draw the bow it still won't make contact with the rest. That ends up being about 1/2 to 1 inch in front of the rest.

Since I buy a lot of bows and reuse many of the arrows I'm not crazy about a set number as the riser designs and actual draw lengths might very a tad. So as long as I can pull a little past the wall and not hit the rest I'm good.
 

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The Impartial Archer
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I always like my broadhead just in front of my hand at full draw, never behind.
You never shot an overdraw then right? I'm not saying you are wrong....everyone has an opinion and this is 100% opinionated just saying there was a point in time where 80% of the archers where drawing broad heads behind their hands.

Of course then we weren't shooting arrows that would self destruct if not flexed checked either. Just making a point.
 

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I start my hunting shafts cut around the leading edge of the riser. However I start trimming that during tuning process with heavier head weights I prefer. Last set finished up at the buger-button hole.

I have confidence in my rest to contain, and my back wall to prevent overdraw. I grip is well clear, and I don't have any reservations of having an accident in the field.
 

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Berger hole/middle of riser
 

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I always bring the insert right to the Berger hole. For me that’s a 30” draw and 29” arrow. About 5/8” beyond the rest.
 

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My Elk Hunting Home
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LOL. With a 32 1/2" draw I'd have trouble finding an arrow I could "cut" and leave in front of the riser. Mine are all cut to 29.5-30" carbon to carbon depending on the arrows I'm using.
 

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I have a 28 DL. I use the OT2 spine program for my arrows so depending on what I want for spine range and FOC I cut as short as 26" and as long as 29" depending on getting my spine just right per arrow. People don't understand how 1" of arrow length makes a big difference.
 

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You never shot an overdraw then right? I'm not saying you are wrong....everyone has an opinion and this is 100% opinionated just saying there was a point in time where 80% of the archers where drawing broad heads behind their hands.

Of course then we weren't shooting arrows that would self destruct if not flexed checked either. Just making a point.
That's right and I will never shoot overdraw. It's just my preference. All equipment can fail. If it ever does while I'm shooting I want the broadhead in front of my hand.
 
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