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I want to get 1 dozen arrows within 5 grains of each other. To be clear I want the lightest of the dozen to be no more than 5 grains lighter than the heaviest. I know this means weighing ALL the components before assembly to get the arrows close. But of course fletching cement and insert glue is a variable. What can I do to get the completed arrows closer in weight? Grind a tad off the back of the threaded shank of the broadhead to bring the heavier arrow down a tad in weight? Add a thin washer between the insert and the broadhead to bring the lightest into spec? What do you guys do? Am I being too anal?
 

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A quality dozen of arrows will usually make the 5 gr requirement. The best dozen arrows I ever assembled weighed within .1 grain - Yes, one tenth of a grain. BUT, I don't have a problem with my hunting arrows varying up to 8 to 10 grains if distance is kept within 35 yards.

I like my arrows to come in box or bag - not the "may be" mixed batches in a arrow rack. Glueing of vanes can result in a grain or 2 in weight difference - usually from excess glue which can be shaved off to some degree. Inserts; make sure you apply glue in the same position on the insert. Too much glue is squeezed off as you drive insert in - just wipe off excess. I find field points vary more than broadheads - so not really a worry.
 

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i am down to + - 1 grain

Yes way too anal but at least the misses are mine, not the arrows.
Quality arrows. CX selects for me, cxl 250 spine select, maxima 250's 3d, but last year for 3d I used cx200's from 3 different batches. If they are cut right they are usually within a couple of tenth's of a grain for the arrow shafts, I put my own fletches on using loctite, I usually find my biggest difference is usually in the points, I often find I have 2 - 3 grain difference between points. Points are cheap so having a few extras does no damage, and I find they sometimes are damaged on targets ( or back walls or..) so having spares is a good idea. I used to put the little washers behind the heads but lately with the consistency of the arrows, I usually just match the heavy head to the light shaft. If they are still off by more than 3 grains then I cut pieces of hot glue (use it for inserts and nock bushings) and put them in the inserts. My last batch of 3d arrows was 314.4 to 314.8. Now if I could only shoot them.
 

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oh BTW straight is important too

never mentioned that I spin arrows all the time for wobble. I think this is more important than weight especially for broadheads but also for field points. I just bought a g5 arrow trimer to ensure they are flush. (besides nothing else to do on those nights I don't shoot.) hope the wife does not read this.
 

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Pull the nock off and put baby power or graft powder in them till they all match in weight. I have done this for years on my target arrows
 

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What I did was to fletch 2 dozen arrows labelled, put them all in the shooting machine and fire 70m indoor a few times. The ones that consistently group tightly together are considered the most consistent arrows even though they may vary more than 5 grains among each other. That is what we are going for at the end of the day isn't it? :)
 

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Since I know everyone has their own personal shooting machine and 70M indoor range, we will all adopt this as the prefered method......
 

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Wow I did not know that thanks for telling me! Appreciated that! Oh I think I said,

"What I did was to fletch 2 dozen arrows labelled, put them all in the shooting machine and fire 70m indoor a few times. The ones that consistently group tightly together are considered the most consistent arrows even though they may vary more than 5 grains among each other. That is what we are going for at the end of the day isn't it?"

Hmmmm I do not think I am refering to everbody, am I? Good day to you and looking forward to your reply!
 

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I want to get 1 dozen arrows within 5 grains of each other. To be clear I want the lightest of the dozen to be no more than 5 grains lighter than the heaviest. I know this means weighing ALL the components before assembly to get the arrows close. But of course fletching cement and insert glue is a variable. What can I do to get the completed arrows closer in weight? Grind a tad off the back of the threaded shank of the broadhead to bring the heavier arrow down a tad in weight? Add a thin washer between the insert and the broadhead to bring the lightest into spec? What do you guys do? Am I being too anal?
That shouldn't be a problem. I don't think I have ever had more than a 4 grain difference in a dozen arrows, using carbon or aluminum shafts.
 

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Since I know everyone has their own personal shooting machine and 70M indoor range, we will all adopt this as the prefered method......
Not very nice to be sarcastic when engaging in discussion :pukey:

Anyway talking about weighing arrows I just did my dozen and it was well within 2 grains. I weigh every single components and it turns out even the Beiter nocks weigh different among one another.

Jenny Hanneman
 

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Like that was a real world answer..........:confused:
 

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I was thinking if I should reply you but in the end I chose to because it might help educate you.

In my club, yes read as "MY", what I, yes read "I", did was to do the group tuning and that's it. I believe there are people out there having the same privilege of having the same facility as my club. And just because you do not have it doesn't mean this is not a real world answer.

By the way if someone, yes "SOMEONE" tells you he is Easton sponsored do you tell that person, "Since I know EVERYONE is Easton sponsored, we will all adopt the fact that breaking arrows are no big deal......"

Childish... Period.
 

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Whatever you say You seem to have a grip on knowing it all...
 
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