Archery Talk Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, I'm new to the forum and have been shooting a compound bow for about 3 years now. I have improved a great deal in that time but know I can still be much better. Here is a video of me shooting recently. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

To give you an idea of where I'm at; yesterday I shot a 280 out of 300 on a Vegas target and that's my best to date. I suspect I can greatly increase that score by end of 2013. My primary focus is hunting but I am going to try out IBO and PSAA competitions this year.

Thanks in advance for you advice!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PS-L2A-NxJw
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Thumb release should be activated by back tension for starters. Your not too punchy at all in these but it probably shows up later in a round. What do you think is the biggest hurdle you have to being accurate?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Perhaps my biggest hurdle is holding still. I've been trying to work on my stance and relaxation to aid that. After that I would say that the pin is blury when I focus on the target. I am cross eye dominant and have accepted that I cannot shoot with both eyes open, I have tried many times. I don't know if that can have something to do with it. I am shooting 1/4 inch peep which outlines my scope exactly. I purchased some aplifiers when I intend to play with as some suggested this my help clarify the pin. However with the amplifiers I lose the ability to ensure I'm centered on my scope so I delayed playing with them for a bit. I don't want to use lenses and verifiers as this is my hunting (and only) setup.

Sorry if that's TMI. :) But I do think my shakyness and the pin bluryness are my biggest obstacles. It just looks like pros hold way more still than me.
Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
Hard to tell the whole story without your legs/hips in the frame. Top looks good, it appears like your leaning a little forward, but hard to tell without whole body view.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Perhaps my biggest hurdle is holding still. I've been trying to work on my stance and relaxation to aid that. After that I would say that the pin is blury when I focus on the target. I am cross eye dominant and have accepted that I cannot shoot with both eyes open, I have tried many times. I don't know if that can have something to do with it. I am shooting 1/4 inch peep which outlines my scope exactly. I purchased some aplifiers when I intend to play with as some suggested this my help clarify the pin. However with the amplifiers I lose the ability to ensure I'm centered on my scope so I delayed playing with them for a bit. I don't want to use lenses and verifiers as this is my hunting (and only) setup.

Sorry if that's TMI. :) But I do think my shakyness and the pin bluryness are my biggest obstacles. It just looks like pros hold way more still than me.
Thanks!
Have you tried decreasing your pull weight or increasing your holding weight? Ever experiment with shortening your DL? When you are having problems "holding" on target is the motion a large slower motion or is it smaller faster movements?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Please forgive me if I misunderstand some of you questions, I'm new to the lingo.

Decreasing pull weight: I have a 65 # bow and I have dropped it down to 57# while I'm learning. Note my back is quite strong and drawling is no problem however my shoulders have some issues and holding the bow up drawn (front hand) is the harder part.

Increasing holding weight: I believe my bow can be set to 80% or 65% let off. It is currently set to 80% for hunting.

Shortening Draw Length: No. My wing span /2.5 = 30 and it is currently set to 29.5 DL. I feel that I need to bring the bow in a 1/4 inch after drawling to touch my nose.

Slow or fast holding movement: Honestly I'll have to shoot again to accurately answer. I'd say a good hold moves around to the outside of the 9 ring and when I'm having more trouble holding steady its an be the outside of the 8 or 7. Basically my routine once drawn is anchor, check level, look at target, thumb on release, hold as still as possible on target, pull with back to release, hold briefly for follow through.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
You got the gist of my "lingo" and I should have been more clear.

The lower the draw weight the easier it is to use when getting started. A higher holding weight makes you stay honest form wise. If you start to cheat and loose good form the bow will want to "creep" or pull forward on you. I shoot a bow better at 65% than I do at 80% let off.

Another observation is to try your peep a little higher. That may keep you from dipping your head and it may take some pressure off of the front shoulder. Raising it could also help steady your hold.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,858 Posts
1) Bow hand. Notice that on every shot, your doing something a little different with the fingers on your bow hand. Sometimes fully extended, then a partial grab at the bow (first shot) and the rest of the shots the fingers are sometimes more open, and others more relaxed. Freeze the vid @ 2:16....try using that EVERY shot for a while. (Last vid was MUCH better on that front!!!)
2) Release hand. PERSONALLY, I would raise the trigger on the release so you can curl around it a little more (not much, and this is a personal thing) THEN, once wrapped around the trigger, adding back tensions will rotate the elbow down (or at least torque it as such) and will add tension to the trigger. It still looks like you are using thumb muscles to fire the release at least some of the time. Watch your thumb @ 1:30 on the last vid.
3) Posture. As mentioned...leaning forward a touch....be sure for posture vids to have the targets about shoulder level or so. This way the arrow is level when your at full draw...some of the leaning might be from shooting downhill slightly.
4) Draw length. Based on your statement of needing to bring it in a 1/4" once at full draw...try going to 30" draw...See how it feels. If it's too much , play with twisting/untwisting some cables/string to get you to that perfect medium (maybe 29 3/4 maybe not.)
5) Feet. IF when you go to a 30" draw, you bow DOES feel long, square your feet up to the target (arrow on line pointing at the X...toes of both feet touch that arrow). It is a way of fine tuning your DL (and I mean FINE tuning....I would rather set my bow to be right when I am square than have to open my stance to fit a short bow)

All in all, your WAY ahead of MOST shooters! Some of this is very nit-pivky stuff to help you perfect your form vs. re-building from the ground up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
776 Posts
Fine video by the way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
632 Posts
I saw two things that you might work on a bit.
1) Bow arm, you drop it pretty quickly. It may not be affecting your shot much right now, but it is good practice to get in the habit of holding it firm for a little longer. I have been working on this for a while and make common practice of holding it for a one-one-thousand count. This way you know for absolute certain that there was no interference with the arrow. It may seem silly but dropping your arm too quickly can sneak up on you! Also it seems like 30% of the time you were actually jerking forward with your bow arm.
2)Bow hand, you look like youre grabbing the bow a bit and it may not be in the same place every time. Instead of an open hand grip, maybe rest your fingertips on the grip just lightly (i have even had some kids i have worked with tuck their fingers to avoid grabbing the bow). THere is something about this that loosens the hand and forarm, and gives the subconsious mind peace, that the bow wont fall. This might help.

Great video though! Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
A lot of this looks good. I have been battling similar things as you with my accuracy and other items. As was stated, try to get your thumb around more on your release as it will help focus more on the use of your back. I did an exercise with a stan element one night and shoot it where I had to pull about 6-7 pounds into the backwall to set it off. Believe me it will whip your butt after a couple dozen shots. I personally think you need to extend your draw length a little, and dont be afraid if you have to make an in-between draw length. I shoot a 28 7/8" draw the best, which clearly is not an option with any bow cam. Find what works for you an write it down. There is a Chance B. video floating around currently, and you can see how a true pro makes his job into a science.

BTW good song choice in the first vid. One of my favorite songs of all time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
429 Posts
I'm far from being an expert at anything bow related so keep that in mind, but I have been trying to read and learn alot of stuff for myself also. When you talk about holding steady, I agree to pay attention to what your pin is doing (quick/darting or slow/looping) cause it can tell you alot about what is going on. I have recently been playing with tweeking DL and seeing what it does to my sight when shooting while focusing on my form. Another thing you might could consider is playing with different stabilizer weights and lengths when you are shooting competition. Then you don't have to change anything but that from your hunting set-up and it would be an easy change to make when it's time to head back to the woods if you need to. Might can try changing total bow weight also and improve your holding ability, but I'd make sure that you were solid in your DL before I changed anything. Also, I feel like the blurring pin isn't terrible if you are focusing on your spot while your aiming and aiming really strong cause your subconscious (sp?) is gonna keep the pin where you are aiming. This is all just my opinion but hope it might help some.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,505 Posts
Are you able to experiment with peep position? Close your eyes, draw the bow, anchor how you are comfy, and the open your eyes. You should not have to move at all to see through it clearly.

By the way good work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,795 Posts
Basically all of the above:
  • No noticeable Rhomboid - elbow not being brought to side at release
  • No full height viewing - hard to tell on O/A posture
  • Appear to be leaning forward a touch - could tell better in a full height view
  • Bow hand inconsistent - could have a touch of tension in the fingers when extended forward rather than natural curl
  • Moving head to peep, but that's the cross-eye dominance
  • Overall pretty good & sustantiated with your scoring
  • Could try a smaller peep - think it would still surround housing well. Smaller peep could improve accuracy. 1/4" is good for hunting, but if you want better accuracy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks all good advice. I will seriously consider it all.

I plan on getting a new string soon. While I'm there I may have my DL increased 1/2 inch, up my let off to 65%, and experiment drawing with my eyes closed to find the perfect peep position before they put it back on. I'll also be getting a cbe tek-hunter sight which I'm pumped about. I think those equipment changes will help position me for success this coming year. My thumb release is all the way out now so I'll play with hand posion to see if I can cradle it more without causing ADs.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top