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Ok, I have always used compound bows (finger shooting) and I have now "almost" made my mind up for the Hoyt GM, to be the One which carries me through this "important" change.

Looking for a #45 @ 28", more likely a used one (to be found here on the classifieds or on e-bay).

First question : do you know how much a fair price would be for a good used one ?

Secondly : Could you advise on a rest and sights to be added onto this bow ?

Another question : after long (and proficient :)) practice, what would a fair distance to shoot a deer be ? I know it depends more on the archer's ability....it's just to get the idea......can I consider out to 30 yds. ? ..more ?

I have been suggested to buy the "Masters of the Barebow DVD - vol.3". Some say is a must-have. Your thoughts ?

Looking forward to your replies.

Thanks
:darkbeer:
 

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Nessuno -

Since you are already shooting fingers with your compound, you are effectively already shooting a recurve. The only difference will be the holding weight and that will be what takes time to get used to. Once that happens, IF you rig the stickbow the same as your compound (sights etc), you should be able to hunt at the same distances you used to. Odds are your skill will be the limiting factor, not the bow. For a good shooter 30 yds (assuming a clean/open shot) should be a no-brainer.

A lot of people, myself included, have had great luck with the NAP Centershot flipper rest on that kind of bow. It's as bomb-proof as the come. (Only down sides, is that they don't have the tuning options as a rest/plumger set up and have gotten a little pricey. There's no logical reason to shoot that bow off the shelf (in your case, since you're going to use a sight and that along will throw you out of any "trad" class at shoots).

Since you plan on using a sight, go with something similar to what you use on your compound (yes, it will fit). Just remember, the slower arrow/increased trajectory will require longer vertical travel. From 0 - 30 yds allow about 1.5" (give or take).

Yes, a small stab DOES help too.

Can't tell you how long it will take you to become "proficient". see above.

Viper1 out.
 

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475 is how much they cost new at my pro shop and i dont take shots out side of 20 dont get masters of the bare bow get rick welchs shooting dvds
 

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I wouldn't pay anymore than $350 for a used one. Try and see if you can get the game master II over the original game master. Very slight changes and really no big deal but just to let you know.

I used the NAP center rest flipper II on mine.

I like the look of the bow, very untraditional and that is a good thing for me. Pisses alot of people off with that tec bar but again a good thing.

The stock strings suck on the ones I have seen. I've picked up 7 fps with a custom string over the stock string and it got much quiter.

Do get the masters of the barebow III over ANY other shooting dvd to begin with. I heard the welch video is good but the guy is just a great shot to begin with. The MBIII dvd shows many different types of shooting styles and lets YOU decide which will work best for YOU. Does a good job explaining too.

Another thing to really confuse you is that if I had a chance to do it over again I would get a Quinn Stallion and a can of ultra flat matte black spray paint, spray paint the riser and be done with it. The Hoyt is OK to good depending on if you want to upgrade the limbs aftermarket or not but the Quinn is good from the beginning. Their paint job on the riser looks cheesy but you can fix that. I wish the Hoyt would have worked for me, i really liked the look of it and it was a stable riser I just didn't like the limb pad angles.

Good luck and don't get caught up in the "force" "jedi" aspect of trad archery. Do your homework and you should be fine. More so than in any other shooting or hunting sport, trad archery has a ton of ignorance, half truths, wannabes, and romantics that you will ever come across. Just go check out the two more popular archery forums and you will see. Good luck.
 

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Oh yeah...and I do think that a good shot can shoot effectively at game at 30 yards. If you use sights and have a good consistent set up then 40 yards would be a possibility too.
 

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Pick a spot.

Burn a hole in the target.

Pick a hair.

If you miss then you didn't do any of the above.

The whole squat, hunch, burn a hole, and fling some purdy arras mentality.

Trad archery isn't about hitting the target with consistency or getting to be a good shot/archer/bowhunter. It's about "something else". Whatever that is. Being in tune with the nature, appreciating the fancy woods in your bow and arrows. Hero worshipping some guy that wears plaid shirts and a fedora.

If you fling enough purdy arras from your hunched over squatted position then you will eventually get good. If you miss then it is about the mentality and not a real breakdown of form or shooting technique.

Basically the whole G Fred asbell school of thought in trad archery which is still around and still very dominant.

That is why the poster should get MBBIII to see what else is out there and not get crammed into one school of thought.

The arrows are more important than the bow. Trust me I have struggled and didn't know it was the arrows. I shot like crap from expensive custom bows for a while until I found a good arrow smith that helped me out. Any bow will do but the arrows are what hit the target. I would most likely just stay with aluminum for the consistency and price. Not all carbon arrows are made the same.
 

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Pick a spot.

Burn a hole in the target.

Pick a hair.

If you miss then you didn't do any of the above.

The whole squat, hunch, burn a hole, and fling some purdy arras mentality.

Trad archery isn't about hitting the target with consistency or getting to be a good shot/archer/bowhunter. It's about "something else". Whatever that is. Being in tune with the nature, appreciating the fancy woods in your bow and arrows. Hero worshipping some guy that wears plaid shirts and a fedora.

If you fling enough purdy arras from your hunched over squatted position then you will eventually get good. If you miss then it is about the mentality and not a real breakdown of form or shooting technique.

Basically the whole G Fred asbell school of thought in trad archery which is still around and still very dominant.

That is why the poster should get MBBIII to see what else is out there and not get crammed into one school of thought.

The arrows are more important than the bow. Trust me I have struggled and didn't know it was the arrows. I shot like crap from expensive custom bows for a while until I found a good arrow smith that helped me out. Any bow will do but the arrows are what hit the target. I would most likely just stay with aluminum for the consistency and price. Not all carbon arrows are made the same.
:eek:
 
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