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I picked up a used Hoyt Gamemaster II today. Beautiful bow, wonderful condition. Anyway, I want to shoot this bow off the self. On my other recurve, I have the self adhesive industrial strength Velcro as a shelf rug/strike plate. Upon reading about how the Hoyt riser is cut past center a good bit, I am guessing I cannot use the same method. So my questions are, anyone have this bow/problem and what did you do? And if I cannot get exactly the right thickness to get it centered, how will that affect my accuracy?
 

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I use a flat head screw covered with a leather and a setscrew for an adjustable plate.

btw... you don't want you arrow centered. As you look down the center-line of the bow, you'll want the tip of the arrow slightly outside the string.
 

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That's a great idea! Can you be a bit more specific about a "set screw"? I don't believe my riser has a threaded hole perpendicular to the Berger hole?
 

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I use a 1/4" screw and a 1/4" setscrew in the Burger hole. You should be able to pick them up at any good hardware store.

Button Arrow Plate.jpg
 

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btw... you don't want you arrow centered. As you look down the center-line of the bow, you'll want the tip of the arrow slightly outside the string.
A bow that is exactly center shot is basically just a bow with a very thin handle. You can shoot them very accurately and effectively, you just have to go slightly stiffer in spine to compensate. That's how my GM2 is set up (using a leather shelf set exactly to center).

But yes, the conventional approach is about 1/8" outside of center.
 

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A bow that is exactly center shot is basically just a bow with a very thin handle. You can shoot them very accurately and effectively, you just have to go slightly stiffer in spine to compensate. That's how my GM2 is set up (using a leather shelf set exactly to center).

But yes, the conventional approach is about 1/8" outside of center.
That is certainly correct and that's what makes an adjustable plate appealing. If you start with your bow setup at the "conventional" tip of the arrow slightly outside the center line, then, as you tune, you can move the plate out to make the arrow act weaker, or move the plate in to make the arrow act stiffer.

The adjustable plate can help eliminate a lot of changing thickness of plate, changing tip weights, cutting length off arrows or perhaps even having to buy new arrows.
 

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I use a 1/4" screw and a 1/4" setscrew in the Burger hole. You should be able to pick them up at any good hardware store.

View attachment 4498562
I took Jim's advice and use one on my Hoyt Excel. It works GREAT, and I use some fuzzy Velcro on the end. If you want to go this route, here's exactly what I ordered (local hardware stored didn't carry these):
Flat Head Socket Cap stainless steel screw: 5/16-24 x 1/2" (I ended up getting the 1/4", 1/2" and 1" length for flexibility)
Stainless steel set screw: 5/16-24 x 1/4"
 

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When I was shooting a Gamemaster, the easiest and most durable shelf and side plate combo that I found was a simple heavy duty felt furniture pad.

They are quiet, wear like iron, and very easily tunable in terms of thickness (centershot).

1-Felt pad Gamemaster3.jpg

KPC
 
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