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Hoyt tuning gurus??

1446 Views 23 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  SonnyThomas
Has anyone ever had a bow that you have to move your rest almost a 1/2 in. outside of center shot to get it to paper tune and group?
Well, i had to do this with my 05 Hoyt Vtec.
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· Back Yard Champion
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Sounds like something isn't right. Still, use of paper tuning done incorrectly results in odds things. I had a bow that was tuned to paper (perfect by the paper), but the Pro Shop person made a mistake. He tuned it to the fletching hitting the bottom of the drop away rest! (Normally great, he had a "brain dead day." - I ain't bad mouthing him, but did give me another reason to start doing stuff myself.) Yeah, a few shots and the fletching was big wrinkle. So I paper tune first with a bare shaft. And use of a laser does not insure center shot. We had a new laser that was off, didn't turn true - centered to the string and the tip of the arrow the beam show the carbon arrow almost a 1/4" off at the rest! Turning the arrow over resulted in the same thing/same direction.

If you're absolutely positive that you did and have everything right, then look for a bent riser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Shooting 400 spine gold tips with 100 grain tip at 28 in.
Shooting 61 lbs. with cam 1/2. with a QAD that is falling perfect with zero fletch contact.
I'm leaning toward a bent riser myself. If so, is it ok to hunt with this season if i'm getting good groups? I didn't want to send it back to Hoyt this close to season.
 

· Lift, Run, Shoot
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You have to make sure your cam timing and your tiller are correct before you even start messing with rest position.

I nail the timing and tiller and set my rest to center shot. Then I start tuning with a bare shaft out to 20 yds. from there. You will almost always require some adjustment away from center shot (and a correction by a poster above - a laser will ALWAYS give you the true center shot - but it won't necessarily give you the best tuned position of the rest for that bow and that shooter).

I then adjust my sight to the tune and go from there. I will often do some walk-back tuning to validate but usually if I've got the bare shaft tuned I don't need to make much or any adjustment on walkback tuning. Then I tune for broadheads. Again, usually if I've got the bare shaft working I'm pretty good on broadheads right out of the shoot but usually require some micro adjustments.

Doing this I can get a very well tuned bow and I always get my fixed blades shooting right with my field points out to 50 yds. and beyond.
 

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Sounds like what happend to me.

My Vectrix was out of whack ,what it was was this, the bottom module was messed up and Hoyt replaced it. We adjusted the center shot and shot perfect bullet holes, if that is not the case check your arrows ,make sure the spine of the shafts are compatible with the poundage. Also check the grip that you have on the bow when paper testing, I catch guys putting the old death grip on their bows a lot. good luck:wink:
 

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I am going to say a timing/sync issue.

Why would you assume a bent riser? you must have done something bad wrong to bend a riser.

your arrows should be just about right I have shot your setup befoe and tuned fine.

how did you test for clearance problems?
Have you timed and synced the bow "bench tuned"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've been to 2 diferent dealers and techs and they both shook there heads after hours of tinkering. Timing is on, specs are on. We set everything according to Hoyt and got a 1 in. high right tear. The last tech adjusted the rest way outside the center and put on a new loop and nock point and got perfect bullet holes, but the rest is almost 1/2 in. out of center. He suspected a bent riser. NO, i've never done anything wrong to the bow to bend it.
 

· Im a Father and Bowhunter
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funky

Not to jump your thread but i had similar problem,bad i mean bad tear to the left and tad bit high. i moved the rest away from the riser and toward the riser backed off poundage ,cranked up poundage,lighter tip heavy tip and checked for clearance issues .Ended up moving my rest way to the right toward the riser to get a close to perfect tear. Still not 100% but i wish you luck..
 

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Everyone is suspecting something either wrong with the bow or timing issues, but to me it sounds as if your string or cable is to long. You will never get a bow to tune with either of these out of spec. And by the way....the tune charts on Hoyt's web site are averages. Suprise, suprise. The way they come up with those is they take about a dozen bows set up with the same essential draw length and tune them. Once they shoot bullet holes they pull the measurments. They then take the average of all the bows and come up with a number. So, the tune charts are just a starting point. Try shortening up your string, sounds to me like it is to long. And, you will be suprised how much quieter your bow will become!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It had brand new Winners choice strings and cables put on last month. All measured by my shop before installing to Hoyt specs. Cable has the non Hoyt like yoke whatever thats called. Looks like any other yoke system.
 

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Are you sure it's 1/2" out of center shot?

How are you eye-balling that? This could be a simple as you just looking at "center shot" wrong.

How do you line up the string when looking at it? In the center of the risor or with the bottom cam?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I guess i never realized how much goes into tuning a Hoyt. Geez! Ive never had a bow so fickle in my life. Guess i'll go back to a Bowtech or get an Elite if this thing is that bad. Don't want to be on a hunting trip and have to deal with all this if something goes wrong.
 

· Lift, Run, Shoot
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A Hoyt with a static yoke (which is also what I use - with W/C 452x) is the most tunable bow on the planet. I'm not saying it is necessarily easy to micro-tune it but you've got more ability to micro-tune it than a bowtech or elite or certainly any single cam out there IMO.

I don't know what to tell you exactly - your bow could be screwed up - but if it's not, I'd say don't give up on learning how to tune it.
 

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It took me about 2 minutes to put new strings on mine, a little shooting to shoot them in, and about 10 minutes to tune the cams. Rest tuning took me about 20 minutes.

It doesn't take long at all if everything is done right.
 

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You think a bowtech is less fickle than a Hybrid cam?

Ok let me know how that works out for you.

Yoke tuning my take a 1/2 hour with a static yoke.

The static yoke may be more tuneable but on a Hoyt I have found that a floating yoke is just about the only way to go.

Now I am not downing the static yoke at all, like it was said, a static yoke allows for user controlled micro tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks to all who replied! I went out and shot my block at 25 yards and it's getting pretty good groups with the rest that far out. Out of a 6 arrows 3 were touching and 3 were within 2 inches of the group. That's all i need for my deer season here in VA. Going to set my 35 yrd. pin tomorrow just in case. I'm going to get my dealer to send it back to Hoyt after the season and have them check it out. Like i said, 2 dealers and myself are stumped, but it's group tuned ok. I want to keep it if Hoyt can do something for me. I'll keep everyone updated. Thanks again and have a great season!!!
 

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Its the mod

Ill bet its thge mod.:wink:
 
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