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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqCxAonC94k

My process for cutting the arrow to size, chopping full-length feathers, fletching the shaft using a Bitzenburger, and gluing on a field tip.
Please forgive the hand shakes - I was on some very powerful medicine fighting a flu that day!

Any feedback is appreciated :)
 

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As long as the arrow ends up with all the components staying put, then the process seems fine.

Some comments:

I've not found it necessary to cool the point in ice water - just stand it on the point end and let it cool gradually. Actually, rapid cooling might cause the glue to crack.

Couldn't see how much glue you were using on the feather, but with CA glues, less is better. You might want to use a spray CA activator. I've found it makes a faster and better bond.

You could cut the full length feather from right at the front end in the chopper. That would leave enough feather to make another 2 1/2 to 3" fletch for future use.

Did you line up the nocks and index feathers with respect to the grain of the shaft the same way on every arrow?

My only criticism is your use of the mitre saw. Leaving the shaft hanging in the air like that when you cut it can be dangerous. The cut off end could fly anywhere. When you cut with a mitre saw, the wood needs to be supported fully on both sides of the cut. Lose the vise and just put the arrow on the saw table against the fence. Better, make a small zero-clearance jig with a stop block so you only have to measure one shaft.

Or forget the mitre saw entirely. A faster, safer, quieter and less messy way to cut the shafts is to make a deep score around the shaft with a very sharp knife, and just snap it off.
 

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Video has been pulled?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
As long as the arrow ends up with all the components staying put, then the process seems fine.

Some comments:

I've not found it necessary to cool the point in ice water - just stand it on the point end and let it cool gradually. Actually, rapid cooling might cause the glue to crack.

Couldn't see how much glue you were using on the feather, but with CA glues, less is better. You might want to use a spray CA activator. I've found it makes a faster and better bond.

You could cut the full length feather from right at the front end in the chopper. That would leave enough feather to make another 2 1/2 to 3" fletch for future use.

Did you line up the nocks and index feathers with respect to the grain of the shaft the same way on every arrow?

My only criticism is your use of the mitre saw. Leaving the shaft hanging in the air like that when you cut it can be dangerous. The cut off end could fly anywhere. When you cut with a mitre saw, the wood needs to be supported fully on both sides of the cut. Lose the vise and just put the arrow on the saw table against the fence. Better, make a small zero-clearance jig with a stop block so you only have to measure one shaft.

Or forget the mitre saw entirely. A faster, safer, quieter and less messy way to cut the shafts is to make a deep score around the shaft with a very sharp knife, and just snap it off.
I took the video down because I couldn't stand how badly I was shaking due to medication. I'm going to reshoot it, but wanted to first comment on some of the criticism.

First off, thank you! Very helpful. As for the ice water comment - I trust the folks at 3Rivers Archery probably more than anyone, and their process is to 'set' the glue in ice water briefly, which causes it to expand after being heated quickly to further solidify the field tip on the point. This is a process they've used for many years, so it's one that I trust.

The feather comments - yes, that's actually normally what i do. I get 2 fletchings per full-length feather. I will make sure to convey this more clearly in the next video. Also, I probably did show too much glue on the feather. I use Goat Tough, and that sh*t works insanely well. Maybe the spray applicator is good too? :) Also yes, the feathers were aligned with the grain - but I probably could've showed that a little more clear in the video. You are VERY demanding!

The mitre saw comment - meh, probably nitpicking? Never had any problems using that method...and it's certainly not dangerous. The jig idea is a good one for multiple shafts.

Thanks for taking the time to point some observations. Cheers!
 

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Regarding the mitre saw comment: I work in a tool supply store and get a lot of input from woodworkers on shop safety, plus I have my own experience to go on. Unsupported wood like that can kick back, and even a small piece of dowel can put an eye out. At least, wear safety glasses.
 

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Regarding the mitre saw comment: I work in a tool supply store and get a lot of input from woodworkers on shop safety, plus I have my own experience to go on. Unsupported wood like that can kick back, and even a small piece of dowel can put an eye out. At least, wear safety glasses.
I was :) You can't see my face sadly.
 
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