[Don Schultz]

Well Padgett to each his own.

I've not used a peep in a hunting bow for over 25 years BECAUSE of the low light advantages of the Anchor Sight (today) and the old Timberline NoPeep before it. Even one of my homemade Hindsight like setups in the mid-1990s used a fiberoptic pin, and performed just fine.

I use the TruGlo tritium pin in the top position in my sight set at 30 yards so that I don't have a pin in the way of seeing the target in the apeture. All these choices add up to low light performance that exceeds any peep based set up.

But again, whatever works for you.

 

[Don Schultz]

Does anyone know if the hind sight can be used with a fixed pin slider like the Fast Eddie XL? I'm looking at either getting the hind sight or the anchor sight.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Archery Talk forum

Theresa,

It took me a while to figure it out, but neither the Hindsight nor the Anchorsight will work with a slider, without regard to the number of pins. Really to bad. I experimented with it for quite a while trying to get the combo to work.

 

[deadquiet]

Good luck, there is a small number of people who enjoy the peepless approach but it is a very small one. I know my experience with it was a wasted one and the moment I got a peep I was better off. I wish you could spend a day with me and eat a steak dinner just before dark and then we could shoot right up to last light and I could show you how much later I can shoot accurately with a peep compared to a no peep system. There is going to come a time when you can no longer see your hind sight type product and have to quit and I am gonna be able to shoot for another 15 minutes when it is stupid dark.

I don't shoot with a peep or anchor sight etc. I took me weeks to get good and years to get super consistent. Now I shoot 3D's and stuff and finish at the top with no peep........been doing it since 1992? Maybe.

My point isn't to brag about my shooting it's that if I can hang right in a 3D tournament with people that do have peeps it proves my point that if you commit you can be just as effective.

Last I don't only do it for the 15 minutes of extra shooting time. I do it because my peep doesn't need alignment, I do get those extra 15 minutes but even more I can hunt at night for hogs which I absolutely love to do.

It's not for everyone and for many deer hunter's probably not worth the learning curve.........but when I did it peeps were always rotating, you had rubber tubes to align them, tri split peeps, and other ways people were trying to fix an obvious problem so I'm glad I did it.

I hear that "good" string help but I still see even the pro's sometimes use their nose to line up the peep.....so it can still happen once in a blue moon.

 

[Padgett]

I could totally see shooting with no peep and a kisser button being a good option for hunting because you have something to tell you if you are anchored correctly, this way when you are stretched around the side of the tree taking that tough shot you don't get lost on your face.

The number one thing is practicing right before dark with your preferred setup right up to the moment where you can no longer shoot because it just got freaking really dark, I take a squirrel arrow with me every day and during the season many times when I am ready to get down I will throw out a plastic bottle and take a shot just to see if I am still set up correctly with my sight light and how I do things to take that shot.

 

[PMantle]

Th

In the mid-90s I transitioned to the Timberline No Peep which worked like the Anchor Sight but was MUCH smaller and difficult to set up. Timberline has been out of business for many years. The Anchor Sight is superior to the old Timberline product and much easier to setup. An Anchor Sight is on my hunting bow today. I still use a Timberline No Peep on my competition bow as a torque check, and on my back up hunting bow as a peep replacement.

Still using my Timberline. I love it so much it makes me wonder why anyone uses a peep anymore. You get that weight off the string, get a torque indicator, and can shoot in much lower light. The last part was huge for me since I was seeing most of my deer in the last 15 minutes of legal shooting times.

 

[blakeman]

Wish they (anchor sight) would update the video's and make clearer instructions on how to setup and use and get more shop's to carry their product. Go to pro shops and show them how setup and help customers with there setups. Just a thought.

 

[Theresa1]

Well Padgett to each his own.

I've not used a peep in a hunting bow for over 25 years BECAUSE of the low light advantages of the Anchor Sight (today) and the old Timberline NoPeep before it. Even one of my homemade Hindsight like setups in the mid-1990s used a fiberoptic pin, and performed just fine.

I use the TruGlo tritium pin in the top position in my sight set at 30 yards so that I don't have a pin in the way of seeing the target in the apeture. All these choices add up to low light performance that exceeds any peep based set up.

But again, whatever works for you.

This is what I had read, you get more light with the no peep. Part of the reason I'm considering it, I don't have great night vision.

 

[Theresa1]

Theresa,

It took me a while to figure it out, but neither the Hindsight nor the Anchorsight will work with a slider, without regard to the number of pins. Really to bad. I experimented with it for quite a while trying to get the combo to work.

Oh bummer! Thanks for letting me know.

 

[Dickenscpa]

I bought the IQ Ultra Lite model at Bass Pro when it was on sale for $49 back in the summer. The site really felt like $49 and the pins were as thick as my fingers, but I saw real value in the retina lok.

I bought the Anchor Sight and went peepless and immediately saw a huge improvement. For one, for some reason I hold my head much more comfortably and my nose touches the string for the first time.

I wound up selling the Anchor Sight quickly though for ONE reason - I shoot a Limbdriver Pro V (love it and won't lose it but it's top limb only) and was using an HHA where the housing moved up and down so it really limited where I could locate the Anchor Sight and it was just too busy in that area. Everything worked without issues but it didn't give me the warm and fuzzies all that stuff so close.

I switched over to the IQ Pro One and really like it so far. I'm a single pin guy but really prefer the horizontal pin. Seems to be very well built as well. The retina lok is better for me ergonomically as well. No quiver fitness issues either. I really like that the pin moves and not the whole housing. We have some novelty shoots at the club and 3Ds that go out to 80 yds or so and the housing doesn't come down so far and create clearance issues.

Hated to lose my lens on the HHA (you can buy a 2X for IQ) but I think I see clearer and have less pin float without one. The HHA wound up in the classifieds.

 

[thirdhandman]

I tried it but found the better alternative to be the Anchor Sight.

I tried both and a few others. I'm old and need all the help I can get. I find the Perry's no Peep to be the real deal, as good as it gets.:wink:

 

[Wood]

Theresa,

It took me a while to figure it out, but neither the Hindsight nor the Anchorsight will work with a slider, without regard to the number of pins. Really to bad. I experimented with it for quite a while trying to get the combo to work.

Sorry Don but this is incorrect. I've been using the Anchor Sight for several years with a single pin slider. It works very well with fixed or slider sights.

 

[Theresa1]

I tried both and a few others. I'm old and need all the help I can get. I find the Perry's no Peep to be the real deal, as good as it gets.

I looked at this one first. The website said it can't be used with single pin sliders, that's why I asked about the other two. A lot of people seem to like Perry's, so it's too bad.

 

[Theresa1]

Sorry Don but this is incorrect. I've been using the Anchor Sight for several years with a single pin slider. It works very well with fixed or slider sights.

Oh really? It's the only one that looked like it would work with a slider. I had though about just emailing the company to ask. Is the anchor sight difficult to set up?

 

[deadquiet]

I could totally see shooting with no peep and a kisser button being a good option for hunting because you have something to tell you if you are anchored correctly, this way when you are stretched around the side of the tree taking that tough shot you don't get lost on your face.

The number one thing is practicing right before dark with your preferred setup right up to the moment where you can no longer shoot because it just got freaking really dark, I take a squirrel arrow with me every day and during the season many times when I am ready to get down I will throw out a plastic bottle and take a shot just to see if I am still set up correctly with my sight light and how I do things to take that shot.

Great advise........the other thing about shooting then is the woods seem to magically open up but the reality is all those little branches are still there you just can't see them but your arrows tend to hone right in on them.

Not only do I keep my late shots really close but I also make note of the braches before it gets dark and only take shots were it's wide open.......all the lanes with holes through branches need to be ignored because you simply can't see them anymore.

The first time I saw a raccoon at night from a self made ground blind it looked like a bear..........lol......the dark can really play tricks on you.

 

[On_Target]

I remember looking at the different options and ultimately decided to go with Perry's No Peep, am hoping to have it set up in the next week or two. Kept getting tired of losing the last 15-20 min of shooting light on an overcast nights with my peep, I'm hoping this will be an effective solution.

 

[Wood]

Oh really? It's the only one that looked like it would work with a slider. I had though about just emailing the company to ask. Is the anchor sight difficult to set up?

No, it's not hard to set up. Takes me 10 to 15 minutes. Mounts between the riser and your sight bracket, either in front of the riser and above or below your sight, or behind the riser, above or below your sight. Where ever it gives clearance for the range of motion on your sight and is the easiest to see. I usually mount it behind the riser and above the sight. There are 2 rough set screws for lining up the dot vertically and micro adjust screws for fine tuning windage and elevation. When I get it pretty close I draw my bow with my eyes closed, anchoring in the most natural and repeatable position. when I open my eyes if the dot is not centered in the red circle, I make adjustments. Once it's set, you can paper tune and/or sight in your sight. (also, the clear plastic tube that screws into the front of the AS will enlarge or diminish the size of the dot in the circle. just loosen the set screw til you have the right fit and then lightly retighten the set screw.)

 

[Theresa1]

Thank you so much Wood. I think I will order one after this season.

 

[Straight Arrow]

I have one bow set up with a peep and another set up with an Anchor Sight. When I pull back on either bow I automatically calibrate my anchor systems to make sure I'm lined up then look at the sight.

When I'm shooting the bow with the Anchor Sight, first get lined up then just look at the sight and deer, don't look back at the Anchor Sight, this is where I had my issues! Everybody's different so this may not be for you.

As for low light shooting, I've had major problems shooting a peep, especially with the sun in my eyes! I got the Anchor Sight to work on my HHA Slider, but I had to tinker with it!

The other nice thing about the Anchor Sight is it glows in low light, I like shooting with both eyes open and you can keep track of your animal better just before you shoot!

When setting up the Anchor sight be prepared to tinker with it till you get it right, try to get it as close to your aperture as possible.

 

[Don Schultz]

They are effective but they clutter you're sight picture

I don't agree with this. Yes, you do have to decide if it will be below or above your sight housing, which means that it is NOT in the sight picture. IMO the real issue is making it ALWAYS part of your preshot scan, getting it aligned, and then moving to put the pin where it belongs.

 

[deadturkey]

Harder to see in hunting conditions. I'll sale you mine if you want to try one out.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk