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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all ...

First time posting - awesome forum.

My broadheads are hitting 3 to 4 inches right of field points and neither rest nor weight adjustments are improving things. Some stats:

PSE Stinger 60# RH
28" draw length
QAD Ultra Rest Pro
Easton ST Epic 340 at 28.25"
Custom strings
100 grain field points / 100 grain Muzzy 3-blade

I have done everything I know of to get this bow tuned, but can't quite get there. I noticed that the idler wheel leans to the right and the right yoke has several twists in it (none on the left). Could this account for what appears to be a weak spine reaction? I've started from scratch several times and get the same result.

Should I get a portable bow press and take out those twists until the wheel is parallel to the string? Right now an arrow held against the cable guard side of the wheel has about .25" of clearance at the top but touches the string an inch or so above the bottom cam.

This is driving me crazy!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks

SOH
 

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I would press it and put some twists in the left side of your yoke to straighten out your idler and maybe try a 75 grain tip and see if that helps.
 

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I doubt that idler wheel lean is the problem. By the Easton's charts your arrow is a bit too stiff.

You really didn't put anything up that suggests weak spine, but I'd get the lean out and see if there is a improvement.

So you have a PSE. You should see some of Pete Shepley's DVDS. He tells it straight up. Trying to get a bow to shoot both field points and broadheads to the same point of impact isn't necessary and can give you one big headache. Pete suggest you sight in for broadheads.

I ain't saying it can't be done, but why? Most shoot a bow for the biggest part of the year through practice, target, or 3D. You get to hunt for X amount of days. If your groups are good with field points and broadheads, buy a another sight for the broadheads. Practice or shoot all the 3D you want, switch sights and go hunting.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I would press it and put some twists in the left side of your yoke to straighten out your idler and maybe try a 75 grain tip and see if that helps.
Thanks! I'll straighten up the idler at rest and see if that helps. Not sure about the 75 grain tips, though - wouldn't that make for stiffer spine? I think I'm a bit overspined as it is. I appreciate the input!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I doubt that idler wheel lean is the problem. By the Easton's charts your arrow is a bit too stiff.

You really didn't put anything up that suggests weak spine, but I'd get the lean out and see if there is a improvement.

So you have a PSE. You should see some of Pete Shepley's DVDS. He tells it straight up. Trying to get a bow to shoot both field points and broadheads to the same point of impact isn't necessary and can give you one big headache. Pete suggest you sight in for broadheads.

I ain't saying it can't be done, but why? Most shoot a bow for the biggest part of the year through practice, target, or 3D. You get to hunt for X amount of days. If your groups are good with field points and broadheads, buy a another sight for the broadheads. Practice or shoot all the 3D you want, switch sights and go hunting.
Good advice, Sonny, and I realize it can be really tough to get BH and FP POIs dead on. :confused: Just want to make sure I've done everything possible to get the bow properly tuned before shooting at dinner. I'll get that lean out and see if it helps. Much appreciated!:thumbs_up
 

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Thanks! I'll straighten up the idler at rest and see if that helps. Not sure about the 75 grain tips, though - wouldn't that make for stiffer spine? I think I'm a bit overspined as it is. I appreciate the input!
Yes, the 75 grain tips would make a stiffer spine, You said your broadheads impacted to the right of your field tips, that would indicate a weak spine. I didn't run the numbers to see if you were properly spined to start with. It couldn't hurt to try a 75 grain tip. .25 cents and 1 minute to test. Hope you get it sorted out, let us know.
 
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