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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone else found it impossible to get rid of a nock high condition when bareshaft tuning a recurve off the shelf (I was able to tune the 1 hill style longbow I used to own)? I've owned several different recurves and never been able to get a perfect tune shooting off the shelf. I can only adjust between nock-high and nock-higher. I start with a high nock point and slowly bring it down, but can never get them leveled out before the tail end of the arrow starts bouncing off the shelf, kicking them up higher.

Do you think changing tiller would help? It is adjustable on my bow, currently set a 1/8" positive. Shooting off a rest, the bow tunes perfect with the nock point set a hair under 1/2". I shoot split finger.
 

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You can try a 1/4" tiller, and see what happens. With recurves, either off the shelf or elevated rest, my nock point always needs to be a higher one (9/16" to 5/8") to get rid of nock low. Those bows had 0 or 1/8" tillers. But my longbows with a 1/4" tiller, I can shoot with a lower nock point (1/4" to 3/8") and have no nock high or low issues. It could be a tiller thing, try moving it, you can always put it back.
 

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Curious... what arrows, tip weight, length and bow weight are you shooting?
 

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Nock high on paper or impact?

Typically I'll start low and move it up...just easier for me. When I do I go in 2 turn increments of the nock (let the nock follow the threads). it takes a while but it's a fine tuning method I like to use.

Also, have you tried 3 under just to see what happens?

Have you tried changing the point weight?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have about 40# on the fingers. My arrows are 27.5" 1713 aluminums with glue in nibbs (54 grain, no inserts). These arrows tune fine out of the same bow using a rest. Off the shelf, they look ok from a left-right perspective, it's just the up down. I also tried some 29" 1713's (also 54 grain nibbs); which indicated weak, and some 28" 1816's (74grain nibbs) which indicated too stiff.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nock high on paper or impact?

Typically I'll start low and move it up...just easier for me. When I do I go in 2 turn increments of the nock (let the nock follow the threads). it takes a while but it's a fine tuning method I like to use.

Also, have you tried 3 under just to see what happens?

Have you tried changing the point weight?
Impact; haven't tried paper. Haven't tried 3 under with this setup either.
 

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How nock high are we talking? A well tuned arrow will typically bare shaft slightly bellow and nock high compared to fletched shafts.
 

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All good advice

You might want to try starting a half inch high and keep going up

Both bows I'm currently shooting like 6/8 and 7/8 inch high

You never know till you try
 

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grip will also effect nock direction, might want to try modifying how you place your hand on the grip area.

what do you have on the shelf, just the wood or do you have hair, felt etc?
 

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I copied this from a May 22 post with the same problem:


Posts:966




I think the www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html click 'download printable version' is better than the above mentioned Easton site. It doesn't have all the compound stuff get in the way.

The main complication with nocking point is a low nocking point. The results of a low NP look like a high NP, because the rear end of the shaft hits the shelf and makes it kick up. Looking high. Which you noticed with things getting worse as you lowered.

I've had this problem for a while and kind of solved it due to discussion with Ken Beck and Rod Jenkins. Here's what I learned and deduced from said discussions.

Use two nocking points (KB). Somewhere on the internet there's some slow motion video of an arrow nocked below a nocking point, sliding down the string at the second of release - more on this later.

You're torqueing the string (RJ). This is a tough one, because we all do it to some extent. Take a loop of string that's two times your draw length. Put the string on the life line of your bow hand and draw back the other end (with your tab on) to your anchor point. Look down, the string coming off your ring finger should be in the same plane as your forefinger. Trust me it won't be. That's torque to the string.

What the torque does - at the split second of release the nocking point is not only moving forward, but down (to get the torque out, seen in the above mentioned video of the arrow sliding down the string). So just as a low nocking point, the rear end of the shaft hits the shelf making it kick up.

Before I knew the above I had a NP of 7/8's inch that seemed to work. That drove me crazy, because I knew it didn't have to be that high.

For me the solutions were blank bailing all winter to get the torque out and two nocking points. It doesn't take long after winter when I notice the torque coming back. That's just a natural skeletal reaction. Right now just touch the corner of your mouth with your forefinger, you'll see your knuckles are pointing 45 degrees down and sideways.

Bowmania
 

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Sounds like your arrow is bouncing off the shelf giving a false reading. Move your nocking point way too high, then work your way back down until you find the sweet spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for the input everyone.

Yes, I'm aware it's bouncing. The problem is that it starts bouncing before I can get the bareshafts leveled out. I started from a legitimately high nocking point and worked my way down. The shafts started to level, but before they got all the way there, the shafts start bouncing once I lower the nock point any lower.

I'll try a second nock point and messing with the tiller and look into torqueing the string.
 

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I would really try a second nock point below the nock. I've had nocks slip on the string and show an impossible to get rid of nock high condition before-until I did that.
 

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I suffered through the same issue. I drag the third finger. I went to a stick on rest and it improved dramaticly
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Problem solved!

Surprisingly, increasing the tiller allowed me to attain the proper nock point. I didn't think it would be that easy. :)
 
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