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Discussion Starter #1
Bought some Magnus Stingers to try and was wondering the best way to index them. I haven't decided if I'm going to leave the bleeder blades in or not, leaning more towards not using them.
 

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if you aren't going to use the bleeders, get the 2 blades... using a 4 blade without bleeders is just shooting a weaker head for no reason. the bleeders may even add some structure to the ferrule. i would sell them and get 2 blades.... you will be better off. the 4 blade ferrule design needs to be redesigned imo
 

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I have never needed to index them. They are one of the better flying broadheads that aren't real picky about much. If you have the four blade I would just run it that way. The difference in penetration is minimal as the four blade is a super penetrator as is. When you put the blade in just push the tip a little into a block of wood while you tighten the screw to seat it properly. Make sure the screwdriver fits it really good so you dont' muck the phillips and snug it down good. I usually just spin mine and visually look,if you want to be real OCD you can take a cardboard box and put it up to the point and turn it. If its straight it will make a small hole,you will see it walk a little if its off.

One thing about the two blades is the ferrule is a little stronger. But I think the two blade has more of a tendency to allow the fletching to hang up on a pass through.Not a big deal sometimes the arrow will flop a few times and fall out.

I like the serrated blades,and have both two blade and four blade. I have tested the serrated on hide before and it cuts hide better. Nice thing is you can get replacement blades and try anything you want.

They are not as strong as some higher end broadheads but I have a lot of confidence in them. Especially for hogs and deer. I have never not been able to get good arrow flight from them from any bow or arrow configuration. And I never think for a second I will not get the results I want when I stick it where its suppose to go.
 

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You don’t have to index them. The only reason i do it is because i like my blades horizontal. It only take a few minutes to make everything identical. Plus it hurts my soul to see stuff not be lined up. 🤣
 

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There is nothing as to indexing anything with vanes / broadheads it is a Myth. This has been mention too many times here but arrows can vary as to spine years back there was many threads talking how Carbons and tolerances varied a lot. Another reason why I went back to Aluminum Arrows as the tolerances all the way around is the SAME as to any low or middle end Carbons as the process has always been different with the end results.
And as mentioned Magnus Broadheads are one of the best made and Fly Great even their 2 Blade 125 Stingers been using them for 20 plus Years.....
LFM
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I didn't know the bleeders are held in by the screw so I'll leave them on. I was thinking they just snapped in like the old Bear Super Razors which I didn't like because those were prone to popping off inside the deer and then leaving something to look for when dressing the deer out.

Not sure what heads I'll use this fall. I have the Stingers, Shuttle Ts, and Montecs to choose from. Been using the Shuttle Ts for years with good luck and have used the Montecs the last two years but I just don't think I've ever gotten them as sharp as they should be.
 

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Randy Ulmer indexes his fixed heads when he shot them, nothing to do with the fletching, however he wants them all leaving the bow in the same position! He would know.
Makes sense.
 

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if you aren't going to use the bleeders, get the 2 blades... using a 4 blade without bleeders is just shooting a weaker head for no reason. the bleeders may even add some structure to the ferrule. i would sell them and get 2 blades.... you will be better off. the 4 blade ferrule design needs to be redesigned imo
agree!
 

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My arrow comes back pretty far on my shelf. I shoot 2 blade heads. I want to make sure my finger is not going to get cut when I shoot. My grip will not allow that in everyday shooting but you never know when the buck fever is going through the veins.
 

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I index 2 blade on a 45 ... Shoot right handed and they are indexed 10.5 and 4.5 on a clock face. Do this with my trad arrows as well.
 

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The Impartial Archer
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I feel like a 3 blade or 4 blade doesn't matter but I do index 2 blade heads. I "feel" like if they come off the bow the same it's better.....more consistent because they only have one plane.......if that makes sense. Where as the 3 & 4 blades don't.

While broad head tuning I feel like the two blades are more sensitive to wider groups IF your bow isn't tuned perfect and the heads are not indexed the same.

I know on AT everyone's bow but mine is super tuned but I do it for the peace of mind............on the 2 blade........others I don't care.
 

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I feel like a 3 blade or 4 blade doesn't matter but I do index 2 blade heads. I "feel" like if they come off the bow the same it's better.....more consistent because they only have one plane.......if that makes sense. Where as the 3 & 4 blades don't.

While broad head tuning I feel like the two blades are more sensitive to wider groups IF your bow isn't tuned perfect and the heads are not indexed the same.

I know on AT everyone's bow but mine is super tuned but I do it for the peace of mind............on the 2 blade........others I don't care.
Love it!
 

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Corripe Cervisiam
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Great head, I like the 2 blade version .

The most important factor with those heads is making sure they spin perfect and you have them on there perfectly straight.

indexing: if you are a guy that can shoot a 3 inch group at 60 yards every time.... then you might see a tiny advantage to indexing those heads. Otherwise you won’t be able to tell the difference.
 

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I sure have had great luck with the 4 blade Magnus stinger. I’ve never indexed them or any other head, and see no value in doing so.
 

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The only reason to index heads is to keep them rubbing against each other in the quiver.
 

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I index my two blades, always have, use a G5 arrow squaring cutter to take small amount off the
end of the insert, this will let the broad head rotate in small amounts until it is where you want it.
 

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I started my bowhunting journey in the mid-1970's and was told early on by an oldtimer that you had to index your two-blade BH's vertically so they would pass inbetween ribs...... :rolleyes: I was too green at the time to grasp his lack of understanding of arrow dynamics, but soon figured out with growing knowledge that arrows SPIN in flight.....both as a bare shaft and especially with fletching. A well tuned bow and consistent form is the determiner of where a BH impacts....along with the design and quality of the BH. Magnus makes a quality product that has assisted me in bringing home a number or deer over the years.....as have Trophy Taker Shuttle-T's that the OP mentioned. If you feel the need to index, then by all means continue....it is a good case-in-point for using low heat hot melt adhesive so you are able to rotate your inserts. I prefer epoxy for my inserts and just shoot my BH's the way they self-align with a well tuned bow and get good results too.
 

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The only reason I could ever think of indexing a 2 blade would be shooting my recurve, and having them all indexed for a consistent sight picture, if they are all indexed, the sight picture will always be the same. Not only will it look the same every time, but it could probably be incorporated into aiming either for left/right or up/down depending on how you index them
 
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